Dashing Thru the Smoke

After returning Hapy to service, I have not driven him much. As has been true for most of the time we have been together, he doesn't have heat. So it's like driving in an ice fishing shed... which probably brings some appeal to some folks, but it's not my favorite. Still, if I had to get somewhere and I could get there without using freeways, I would and have drive(n) Hapy. Why not freeways? This time of year, as I am sure you have noticed, drivers are especially distracted and others are driving specially, uh... nasty. This old bus needs more braking space than modern cars but other drivers don't always recognize that. When you add those factors together, it is tough sledding in the bus. Add in wet or slick roads and it gets scary. Regular roads are bad enough, but freeway speeds are too scary in the winter for me and the bus. With this backdrop, I start today's post.

Smoked Again

can you spot the loose wire?

A few years ago, on the return drive from 4Peaks, we were greeted with smoke billowing out from under the dash (See 4Peaks 2018 - Road Report). Somehow the ignition sub-harness had fried, leaving us stranded, riding home on a flatbed again. There's a song lyric in there somewhere. Anyway, I fixed that once and then again in a not-to-my-best-liking way with now 2 keys to operate the bus: one to unlock the steering and one to start/run the engine. This is working well enough so I leave it alone.

The other night, I had to drive out to Hillsboro for a final recording session with the band I'm playing in (shameless plug: Sunkicks), and Boo had not returned from work. So, I pressed Hapy into service. With the new starter and better glow-plugs, he fired right up and hummed like he was ready for some fun. It was damp out, so the lack of heat meant drying the inside of the windscreen with a towel, but for the ride out, it only needed that one wipe down. Even the driver door closed without too much trouble. It was like Hapy was really trying his best to show he was a real car and could be used reliably. We stopped for some home repair parts at the big box home repair store and he started right up afterwards. Again, "I'm a real car".

After the recording session concluded, the temperature had continued to drop, while the moisture held steady so the interior glass was quite foggy. Hapy fired right up and I flipped on the running lights while I refamiliarized myself with the controls in the dark. I thought I had the switch for the fans in my hand, but it was actually the headlight control... I turned hard it to the right (the fan control switch has always been a little resistant), and rather than turn on the fans, I caused something to ground, causing a wire to release it's smoke. When I saw the smoke, I turned the switch back left (anti-clockwise) but the damage had been done. All that was left was to figure out how widespread it was, and to apologize to Hapy; this wasn't his fault, it was all mine. The smoke was pretty bad though, considering the windows were closed, the bus wasn't moving and the fan wasn't on. The next day, my throat was still sore from it. When I opened the driver window, it must have looked like a scene from Fast Times at Ridgemont High with the billowing smoke rolling out.

dripping blue

Starting with the positive... the engine was still running. The cooling fans were on and could be turned on and off. The defogger (doesn't defrost, hardly de-fogs) fan could be turned on and off. As to the negative, the driving lights were out, I think the tail lights were out and there was an annoying buzzer like a seatbelt warning was on. When I flipped the turn signal or hazards, the front lights flashed correctly and the buzzing went away. I was still sitting, idling in front of my bandmate's house, so I decided that I would just drive home and deal with it later.

The drive home was quite uneventful other than the constant buzz noise and concern that drivers behind me could not see us nor tell when we were braking. When I got home, the engine and fans shut off without issue. It was too late and too dark to diagnose, but my hunch was that it's the wire that sends a signal to the running lights.

Wire Still a Puzzler

A few days later, when I could go out to the bus in daylight, I went out and removed the headlight switch from the dash. I could see one of the wires had become detached, but I was unable to see any truly fried wires. Puzzled, I plugged the wire into the open pin on the back of the switch, and tried the lights. Yep, headlights still turn on, dash lights still turn on.... running lights turn on. All of them, including the tail lights. So, I pulled on the hazard switch. Dash directionals flash, front directionals flash, rear directionals flash. At this point, I don't know what's fried, but the engine starts and runs, the cooling fans fire, the dash lights, switches and gauges work and all the lights work. In the middle picture, just above, there's a light blue orb thing on the lower left side of the image. That is a blue drip that I cannot account for, but I think something melted and that's the result. Neat.

I think it is time for me to determine which of the original circuits no longer need to be served and at the very least remove the fuses. After the cleanup I did in the back for running the engine, I think it would be wise to plan to do something very similar up front. I mean, in the end, the only things the "main" fuse box is running now are the dash, and the lights. That's like, 4 fuses tops? Regardless, this exercise should lead me to the smoked wire and reduce the electrical gremlins.

Furnace Update

furnace control board

Our electrician is semi-retired. He used to run a HVAC company and has installed literally hundreds of furnaces before focusing on general residential electrical instead. Now, as he is slowly divesting of his electrical business, he has observed my work on our furnace. In a fit of holiday fever (he swore off furnace work years ago), he popped by for a couple of hours, got the gas line hooked up and leak tested as well as the 110V electrical feed completed, with a worker shut-off switch. He even got most of the exhaust venting put in. He hit a wall when he was unable to connect the control cable because the access screws are hidden behind a panel that you can't get to once the first piece of exhaust venting is attached to the furnace. That's some poor design.

Still, I saw the furnace project as 7 big individual efforts: demo/move/mount, conditioned air distribution, cold air return, gas, electric, exhaust vent and the thermostat/control cable. I had completed the first 2. He knocked down 2 more (gas and electric) and set me up to get the next 2: thermostat control and exhaust vent. Once I have that done, he will confirm things, and test the system. Then, I just need to get the cold air to pull from inside the house and we have a complete system. For testing purposes, I may simply smack a filter on the plenum.

Since I started this thread, I caught a cold, celebrated Christmas and installed the thermostat control cable. As I indicated, I had to remove the exhaust venting all the way to the firebox before I could remove the panel which covers the control board. I ran a new wire from beneath the furnace (where the old one entered) and connected the control wires. Before putting everything back together, I took the opportunity to spray the snot out of the control board with a can of computer-cleaning compressed air. I figured that panel won't be coming off anytime soon, so may as well get the board as clean as I can. After that, it was simple replacing that which was removed, re-using the same fasteners.

That's about where things are today. Hapy appears operational, and I will be test driving him here in the next couple of days. The furnace is almost ready to test. I need to complete the assembly of the exhaust vent and properly suspend it from the floor to retain the correct exit angle, but I think that is a couple of hours effort at most.

Thanks as always, for following along. Have a peaceful, pleasant, hapy new year-

Completing the Furnace Conditioned Air

In my last HVAC/furnace post, I had described the conditioned air plenum, and my efforts to create and then attach one. Today, I get on with the rest of the "conditioned air" venting. As before, I call it that so there's no confusion between the venting that has the output from the furnace and the venting that is the cold-air return side that feeds the furnace.

Rectangular Vent Prep

long arm

Recall that the crawlspace in this house had been infested with rodents. I mean it was bad. We had it emptied of rubbish and insulation by a team who seemed borderline hazmat. The work was disgusting, that team was amazing. They replaced some, but not all, of the circular vents with insulated flexible venting, but left the larger rectangular trunk lines. Perhaps they thought those vents were clear and clean or maybe they just wanted to complete the job (not that I blame them). Those vents were unobstructed, but far from clean. I had intended to clean them in-place with a microfiber cloth on an extendable pole. Once I got to really looking at them, I knew this was simply not going to be sufficient, and chose to ignore the fact that these vents were used last winter. Yuck.

ga-ross

To remedy, I dismantled them, and hauled them piece by piece out of the crawlspace into the backyard. Using the highest pressure setting on my hose-end sprayer, I jetted off the worst of the caked on filth, inside and out. Then, with a scrub brush and dish-soap, I cleaned each piece inside and out. Once rinsed, they were set aside to dry and I took one of my most-needed showers ever. The insides are clean, but I noticed a very slight brown staining. I concluded that it's probably from many years of people smoking tobacco in the house. I considered spray-painting all of the inside surfaces, but decided that the off-gassing of the paint was worse than whatever caused a stain (but was now gone). I did, however, spray paint bits of the outside of the venting which had rust or remnants of the old fabric (asbestos-imbedded?) tape which was removed by the hazmat guys.

Rectangular Vent Install

cleaned

Once cleaned, partially painted and moved back into the crawlspace, I was ready to start installing. I started at the furnace and worked by way out. First were the bits that connect the plenum to the rectangular vents. These are angled and change shape from one end to the other, converting whatever size hole you had in the plenum to the size of the vent. I found that by bending the lip wide open, the piece fit easily, and then just fold the lip back against the inside of the plenum. With high-end foil tape, I sealed the seams from inside the plenum.

I read about and considered using a brush-on goop to seal the seams but decided that painting goop while army-crawling around a filthy crawlspace just did not sound like a great idea. Consider too, the goop seals as well as tape, for the most part, and it's effectiveness is directly tied to user application. So, again, lying prone (or supine) with a brush of goop sounds like errors would abound. Taping is hard enough when you're lying down.

Once the 2 main bits were connected to the plenum, I first did a 90* turn bit on the smaller distribution arm (8 x 12 rather than 8 x 18) and then shifted to completing the larger arm. This took many hours, even though there were only 4 sections. For each section, I would wrestle the rectangle into the connectors on the end of the one prior. I used another section of HVAC to hold the far end up while I fastened the new piece to the old with sheet metal screws. Then, I suspended the far end from the floor with nylon webbing stapled to the floor joists above. Once free-standing, I sealed the seams with that high-end foil tape and then wrapped the vent with (R8) foil-wrapped closed cell HVAC insulation. I expected the venting to take a little while, but did not anticipate that the insulation step would take maybe twice as long as the venting assembly. I took care to seal up the insulation seams, but the time was consumed by, again, lying down and wrestling large rectangular insulation panels, trying to wrap them around a rectangular vent which had circular vents jutting out of it. I don't know if having the insulation sealed up tight matters much in the grand scheme, but I made sure they were relatively well sealed anyway. I spent probably 8 hours in total getting the larger arm assembled and insulated.

original round vent

Before I moved to the smaller arm, I attached the round vents to the larger arm. I had initially intended to remove the original remaining round vents, believing they were not up to snuff. While I was assembling the larger arm, I looked at the 2 remaining larger circular vents (picture on the right shows what condition they were in) and while there is some dust and more brownish stain, there is no rodent evidence. What I did not expect was just how close the rectangular venting is to it's original location. The round outlets on the rectangular vents are a few inches off center and less than a foot away from the original. So, I placed a short stretch of insulated flexi-venting between, taping both the inner hose and the outer insulation wrap at both ends. I did not capture a close-up picture of that, but I found that these sections were so short that it was actually easier to remove the inner sleeve from the insulation, attach it to both ends and then wrap the flexy-hose with the insulation jacket afterwards.

Smaller Arm

When I changed the vents around on the larger arm, I inadvertently removed the vent intended for the bathroom. I will re-integrate that later. The bathroom floor vent has not been connected since we first got the house. Recall above where I described where I made the cut in the plenum, I removed another vent access, which was direct-connected there, to the bedroom. Since it was not part of the air design plan for either arm, adding it to one or the other could upset the pressure for the other destinations. Since the bigger arm distributes to the west side of the house and the smaller arm goes east, I decided to tie it into the east (smaller) arm simply because that's the side of the house the bedroom is on. As it stands, the smaller arm only had 2 destinations (the kitchen and one main living space) so I felt adding a 3rd there would be less intrusive than adding a 5th destination to the larger arm. Also, I considered that the kitchen is an uninsulated space, cordoned off from the rest of the house with plastic. I decided to connect the bedroom to the used-to-be-kitchen vent in the smaller arm. When the kitchen is ready for a vent, I'll cut a hole and tie it in or I will move the bedroom connection back to the plenum.

short arm completed

The smaller arm took less time, and other than threading new stretches of flex-hose from the arm to the vents, it was a reflection of the larger arm work. Each arm-piece-to-arm-piece connection was metal-screwed in multiple spots, foil-taped and suspended with webbing. The entire arm was insulated with the R8 closed cell stuff, each circular connection was double-taped (inner tube and insulation jacket). The only real anomaly was with one rectangular-to-circular connector not aligning between the floor joists because of the furnace move. To remedy, I simply flipped it upside down (see picture on the right) so it is on the bottom instead of the top. I'm sure some HVAC person somewhere doesn't like this, but it fits, and it's sealed. All told, building the large arm took a weekend while attaching the circular vents to it and doing the entire smaller arm took a second weekend.

At this point, it had grown dark on a Sunday afternoon/evening. So, I picked up my tools and supplies and put everything away. With some scrap paper and a pen, I started contemplating the cold-air supply side. I will start that work next, but I think getting the "conditioned air" / distribution part completed was a significant milestone. Sure, I still need the gas hooked up, the exhaust re-assembled and suspended, the cold air return I just mentioned, the trigger wiring done and, last, the electrical (and walk thru by our electrician / HVAC guy). Yes, that is a lot, but I feel like the largest, hardest part is now behind me. I know... "famous last words".

Thanks, as always, for following along-

Starting to Solve for the Furnace Conditioned Air

If it feels like this furnace saga is unending, it definitely feels that way on my end. Every passing day, the weather gets colder, but I will not short-cut this work. It being correct is too important for health and safety. I do want to stress that our electrician, Gary, owned an HVAC company and did hundreds of furnace installs. He consulted on the plan and will be reviewing my work / confirming everything when he connects the electrical at the end. So, we keep going. Honestly, the hardest part is putting on cold clothes in a cold house to get into an even colder (and, frankly, filthy) crawlspace.

Anyway, today, I am focusing on what I refer to as the "conditioned" air. This is the air that is leaving the furnace, presumably warmer, but on those days we are only running the fan, it will just be filtered. For simplicity, and since this was the way I did it, we are working from the furnace exit to the floor vents. Sadly nothing was as easy as it seemed in my head, resulting in this expanding to cover many weekends. This is just the first part of it.

Furnace Mounted

checking pitch

Before I shift to the new topic, I had a couple of final things I needed to do with the furnace: confirm the pitch and attaching it to the stand. To confirm the pitch, I found a straight bit of hard plastic tubing that was over a meter long. At exactly 1 yard (36 inches or 3 feet), I attached a 1 inch thick piece of scrap wood. Recall the minimum pitch for the exhaust from a furnace installed on it's side is 1/4 inch of rise per foot (or 1 inch of rise per 4 feet). I figured that if I made sure my work was at 1 inch per 3 feet I would have exceeded the minimum and have some wiggle room for the furnace or the ground shifting. I set the plastic tube jig on top of the furnace and set the level on top of that. Bubble between the lines? Yes, so somewhere along the way between my level crawlspace patio and the top of my furnace the world tilted. Glad it pitched the right way for me. I had planned to shim the exhaust-exiting end. Do I want to know why it shifted? Yes, but I think because the furnace is offset rearward (you can see the stand in the lower right corner of the picture), the weight of the burner is causing the tilt.

Feeling fortunate, I grabbed a longer run of that plastic tubing to simulate the exhaust from the furnace to the chimney and set the jig on that. We have good angles, though I will need to add a brace near the chimney end to make sure it doesn't relax downward over time because the exhaust needs to enter the chimney near the top of the hole. To make sure the rest of my efforts don't cause the furnace to move, I sent sheet metal screws through the now-bottom of the furnace into the stand so it is fixed-in-place. I re-checked the pitch, and it is still 1 inch for 3 feet even after sending screws through. On to the conditioned air!

Plenum Pablum

building a plenum

The first thing the conditioned air enters is a box called a "plenum". It acts as a singular junction box for all of the conditioned air, but it does more than that. Consider what happens when your furnace kicks on. The fan starts and very quickly air pressure increases at the furnace outlet. To cushion the system from that large pressure increase, there is the big box (plenum). Secondarily, this box allows the air to flow smoothly and evenly into the ducts. If the box is too small, or nonexistent, the air would not enter all of the vents evenly, leaving some spaces with too much airflow and others getting an old microbus heating system experience (virtually nothing). I am over-simplifying it as there are air dynamics about back pressure from the branch lines, etc. that I really don't understand.

The original plenum to this house was just that. The original plenum, as in it was the plenum when the heat source was something other than gas, we believe. I think it may have been coal based on the soot we have found and then oil since there's an old oil-tank shed in the back of the house. Still, airflow is airflow and if the thing that is pushing the air is heated by coal or wood or geo-thermal fanciness, and the venting beyond the plenum is the same, I would expect the plenum should be relatively the same. Of course, 15 years after the house was built they added 2 rooms to the back, so maybe the plenum has been the wrong size since. I suppose, this could be a recently-added bit, but none of the other metal venting looks remotely new.

furnace entry

The plenum was almost a meter tall and about 2 feet square. From my research, this is excessive, but was unable to arrive at a clear answer as to what size it should be, like with a calculator or simple rubric. The most basic advice seemed to be "make it a little bigger than the outlet of your furnace". I am fairly sure that would lead you to a too-small plenum and poor circulation impacts, but I defer to experts. Regardless, I took all of this and decided that I needed the plenum to fit in the space I had, so if it was smaller, well... we'll just deal with it and worst case I'll make another one later. I simply built what would fit in the space without digging again. 

Plenum Fab-lum?

So, what did I do? The original plenum had the air enter from above and then it routed air sideways out 2 rectangular vents and one round one. In order to keep the orientation of the rectangular outlets, I needed the top covered and a new entry added on one of the other "horizontal" sides. In order for the 1-meter-tall plenum to fit into my not-quite2-feet-high crawlspace, I needed to shorten it too. So, I measured and then cut (with the death wheel) 9 inches down from the top in each of the 4 corners. Then, I folded the sides in like a cardboard box. With a hammer and dolly, I squared the newly folded lines. Content with the shape, I drilled and then pop-riveted the new top in place (upper image). Last, I sealed all of the edges with high-end foil tape.

Plenum added

So, I have a box, but no entry for the furnace. Onto the side which had a circle-vent, I applied blue tape and then measured the dimensions of the furnace exit. Half an inch inside this rectangle I marked the actual cut line. That extra 1/2" will be the lip which will press against the exit "flange" on the furnace. I cut the hole with the death wheel, turned the lip with some pliers and cleaned up the fold with the hammer and dolly again. The circle-vent used to feed the bathroom, which does not currently have a vent. If we re-introduce a vent into that bathroom, I can re-integrate it into the system.

I lowered this new plenum into the crawlspace, army-crawled it past the furnace and attached it to the furnace. It barely fits between the ground and the floor joists, but it does and it did not disturb the angle of the furnace. Once it was in place and the edges sealed, I was ready to look back at the main trunk / vent lines (the big rectangular ones).

As often happens when I get to posting about something, this got very long. This feels like a logical transition point so, I am going to stop here, and pick it up next time. Thanks, as always, for following along-

Kitchen Planning

Around the furnace work and getting Hapy operational again, Boo and I have been trying to move forward on having a viable kitchen as well. Today, I will post briefly about that progress.

Cabinets

rough kitchen thought

It probably makes sense to start somewhere near the beginning. Shortly after getting this house, Boo and I hit the rebuilding center looking for all kinds of things. What we were NOT looking for were kitchen cabinets. The old ones were still in there, the kitchen needed serious cleaning and fixing, we didn't have a place to put new ones, etc. Well, there was a full set from an old house that had rounded corners and such that they looked perfect. At $420 for an entire kitchen's worth of cabinets (plus a bathroom vanity and a couple cabinets for a laundry, we think), we pulled the trigger. Through the help of Boo's ex-husband, and his minivan, we managed to fit all of them into the van and the pickup in 2 trips, and loaded them rather unceremoniously into the garage. Fast forward over a year and they were still there though the kitchen is now getting some focus. Still, they have been safe, undamaged and long-since paid for.

We recently engaged with a contractor to help get things moving more swiftly. Had we not done so, I suspect those cabinets would have sat in the garage for another 6 months while I finished the furnace work and then got going on some kitchen rough-in. Instead, I spent a few hours in the garage freeing the cabinets from the things that had been buried on top of them.

Cleanup

cleaning the line

The old kitchen was somewhere between a cold-room, a tool shed, building supply storage and the pass-through to the laundry and backyard. As a result, it was a mess. Oh, and I did tear down a bunch of drywall when the weather was warm so the whole area was cordoned off with a floor-to-ceiling plastic sheet. It was not exactly welcoming for the holidays. When I removed that non-supporting / secondary wall, I had left extra space below the ceiling. I wanted that line clean before I did anything else. So, I measured again the height of the passage I was mimicking (7'4") and sent in a screw to mark the spot. From beneath that screw, I pushed up with a long section of door trim (knowing it was straight). Atop the trim I set the level and then sent 2 screws through the trim into the drywall so I had a fence to cut along. With a handheld drywall saw I cut the line, knowing it was level. After the fact, I realized that having the cut leveled would have been best done after getting the floor perfectly level... which it isn't. We have moved the floor leveling to the front of this active list and that line will probably need to be fixed with a subsequent cleanup cut or some drywall repairs. Oh well. With the wall pushed up, we can better imagine the kitchen space, so it was not a total waste of effort.

With the line cut, my demo was done; the contractor will be handling the floor and anything else that pops up. So, I could clear everything out... the work table, construction material, the construction waste I just created, etc. leaving just an empty room. A couple hours of sweeping, vacuuming and mopping left us a room that was ready for some imagination. Before we could really do much else, though, the hole through which we lowered the furnace needed to be temporarily covered. Boo picked up a 4-foot-square sheet of 15/32" plywood that more than covered the hole. In fact, it helped us consider the swing-room for the door as we started plopping cabinets.

Try Before You Mount

sink thinking

Boo and I had her sister, her niece and their respective partners over to haul kitchen cabinets from the garage into the demo'd kitchen. One by one, we hauled a cabinet up the 2 steps and thru the doorway. Once the first end fit through, we slapped a moving dolly underneath it. When the other end made it through, it was placed onto another dolly. Once on dollies, the cabinets could roll around the floor. A few weeks ago, we bought a half-dozen moving dollies from Harbor Freight (they were on sale) for this purpose.

Most folks do this in a completely opposite way: hire someone, have that someone take measurements, with those measurements they plan a kitchen, cabinets are built to that plan, and then they are installed. We started with buying a rando-set, so in order to figure out how they could fit, we could have measured things, and gone virtual planning. This felt much more visceral. We moved them around and played house by pretend cooking a meal and using the sink to get a sense for how the space really works for us. 

While we did arrive at some ideas, and at least a couple cabinets set in their probable-permanent locations (sink base and pantry), we are left with unknowns. While the rest of us played with the cabinets, Boo's sister's partner Glenn measured and marked up a sheet of graph paper with the dimensions of the overall space. Boo and I will cut up little pieces of paper reflecting the remaining cabinets so we can arrive at the open working kitchen we are seeking. Ultimately, we will probably cut down at least one of the cabinets. Representing that is much easier by cutting a small piece of paper than actually taking saw-to-cabinet. It's obviously, much easier to undo as well. Before you ask, yes, we absolutely could do this with SketchUp or something similar. I started down that path and the amount of work necessary was considerable when compared to pencil, paper and scissors. While the paper plan is 2-dimensional (versus SketchUp or similar), we can arrive at a 3D experience simply by moving the cabinets around in the actual space. Or, at least, that's the current thinking.

Still Cold, Inside and Out

Progress on the furnace continues. I will post an update next time, but I will say that with every weekend spent working on HVAC, the $10K estimate seems more and more reasonable. Our overnight temperatures have been dipping below freezing with increasing frequency. When coupled with little-to-no insulation and an overtaxed electrical system, we have to pick which areas will have any heat, and those which do get some are not having it consistently. If fear is the ultimate motivator, I think wanting to be warm is a fairly close second. We are also realizing just how important it is to have a considerable part of the house electrical work done when Gary is here for the kitchen and hooking up the furnace. 

NewOldHouse is starting to feel like the house version of the old VW bus: there's always something to work on because there's always multiple things that need to be fixed. And, the answer to the question of "will it ever be done" is also the same: Probably not. Thanks as always, for following along-

Hapy Update

Today I could continue the dissertation on the effort to move the furnace in our 1948 farmhouse. Instead, I actually have something car related... the check-in on Hapy that I said I was going to do in a prior post and then flat-forgot. Remember Hapy? He's the 1972 VW camperbus that launched this blog. I meant to post this yesterday, time got away from me.

Hapy No Start Returns

A few weeks ago, as the weather turned cold, Hapy became increasingly difficult to start. Again. I figured it was the same issue as last time (See Hapy No Start Again), and started checking things with my multi-meter. I started where the old problem was: the main fuse for the glow plugs. Nope, there's a clean over-12V signal there. Then, I checked the voltage at the relay, and it was fine there too. Same for the resistance in the wire and the fuse.. no issues. So, I started thinking about the glow plugs themselves. I swapped this set in when I put in the chipped CPU and bigger nozzles, but not because there was anything wrong with the ones that were in there. I had this set of plugs that I had lying around for a few years, and I was selling Flash. Flash had failing glow plugs (resistance tests between the plugs were not within a few ohms of each other). So, rather than put the new set into Flash, I got selfish and put Hapy's nothing-wrong-with-them plugs into Flash and installed the new-never-opened plugs into Hapy. Looking back, I don't think these plugs were nearly as good. I think we have had starting-while-cool problems from the beginning, but it was Summer when I did the swap and never thought about it. Until now.

I pulled the rear-most plug (#4?) and tested it by resting the glow plug threads against a grounded bit of steel on the engine and triggering the ignition to "run". After a 3 count, the tip of the plug started to glow orange. After another 3 count, I could hear the relay click off, and the tip returned to black. I did this a few times and each time it took a few seconds for the plug to respond and even then it was only the very tip. Based on some internet imagery, I concluded that those plugs were insufficient and bought a fresh set.

A few days prior to installing the new set, I started hitting the in-engine plugs with some Kroil penetrating oil at dinnertime. I did not want a plug to break off or damage the head during removal. Whether it was necessary or not, the plugs removed relatively easily. All of them had soot on them when they were removed. Into the trash they went. For each of the new ones, I applied some anti-seize onto the threads prior to installing and then only snugged them down (did not torque the snot out of them).

Unfortunately, my efforts to start Hapy when the glow plugs were not working did a number on the starter. Again. So, my attempt to start him after replacing the glow plugs was not fruitful. Since I did the glow plug swap around the furnace work, and the furnace still is not operational, I self-limited my time to just swapping the plugs and then getting back under the house. I returned the following weekend (bumming rides and car-sharing with Boo the week between) to remove and inspect the starter.

should be 1 part, not 2

I admit, I expected the starter to just need a remove / re-install cycle. I was wrong. This rebuilt starter was installed in June 2023. After a summer of being my "daily driver", the starter was cycled well less than 500 times. I guess rebuilt Bosch starters are not all the same. Maybe the starter was a Bosch but the rebuild was done with cheap-o parts, leaving just the case as a Bosch unit. Regardless, it did not take very long to notice that the seal on the end (which is supposed to go around the shaft which juts out when 12V is applied) wasn't there anymore. It had potato-chipped inside the little pocket where the nose of the starter goes. Neat! So, off to the internets I went looking for a suitable replacement. I decided to get a new one from MetalManParts. Run by MetalNerd, his site only sells things that he personally fabricated or installed into his own vehicle. I have purchased both types of things from him before and have no regrets. Since Bosch was sold off to Seg Automotive, he now supplies new starters from them. I trust that if he is selling them, he is using them.

Sadly, the install of a starter has become fairly rote, since I've done it so many times. I simply put a 19mm socket, 13mm socket, a ratchet and a couple extensions into my pocket, slide under the bus with the starter and it's installed in less than 15 minutes now. If the rear sway bar were not there, I could probably have it done half that time. Of course, I ran the battery down with all my glow plug testing, so it got a spell on the battery charger before I could test my handiwork. Once that was resolved, I turned the key to "run", counted to 6 (for the glow plugs, it's 45*F here) and returned the key to "off". I repeated and then tried to start. Fired right up! I let him run a few minutes to top off the battery and now he is back to being my daily driver.

Hapy Heat Not Heat

Remember all that effort I went through to install the Vanagon rear heater under the bus for some heat? While that was fun, the result is not much heat. I described the lack of warm on the drive to and from the Cascade Equinox festival. Beyond the lack of detectable warmth, opening the valve to try to get heat has resulted in a coolant leak. I can attribute no other source for why Hapy's coolant level is suddenly not holding. So, I turned the valve back off and will be replacing the Vanagon rear seat heater with something else: a Maradyne Fans Stoker heater.

Maradyne, but could be any

There are lots of auxiliary fans which all look the same and have the same spec's (300cfm, 40k BTU - airflow and heating capacity, respectively). JEGS has their own, for example, that looks identical. Since I am unsure who is the originator, I went with a manufacturer with a known, solid reputation. There is little documentation and hardly any photos of this particular unit on the interwebs, making this choice perhaps a little more risky. I find the 40k BTU number everyone is using to be gross hyperbole, but I don't know how to test that nor the 300cfm number. I will bench test to get some amp-draw numbers before I install it. The amp-draw might be useful information for the next person since even Maradyne doesn't list this detail on their product page. And, it could be one more thing that is exactly the same on all of these units. For future reference, the JEGS unit draws 5.5, 7.1 and 11.6 amps (for low, medium and high settings respectively). I had relays in-place for the medium and high draw switch positions for the Vanagon unit. I don't know if I  will re-use them. Perhaps the amp-draw numbers will help me decide.

One other thing to point out: none of these heaters ship with a coolant control valve. Since I was leveraging the valve in the Vanagon, I have to add one of these or the heat will be on maximum all the time. I included this "vintage" control valve in my order. I thought about going with an electric one, but decided that I would really like to re-use one of the big original heat-sliders on the dash to control the amount of coolant flowing into the heater core. That feels more authentic than another knob attached to the bottom of the dash. Of course, I haven't ever had that control cable, so I will be running this either full-on or full-off until I do.

For now, this means that trips in Hapy will be just like all the other trips I've ever made with him in the not-Summer. They will be cold. It will be like driving around in an ice-fishing shed, unless I can either install that heater soon-ish -OR- get the little Chinese diesel heater/furnace working.... or both. Since I do not have a garage and I barely have a 4-meter square piece of concrete to work on... and I have a house furnace to fix, I do not think Hapy's heat will get addressed terribly soon. At least I have the parts for when I do. Of course, now that he is my daily-driver again, I may decide another week without a furnace might be a fair trade for some heat, any heat, in Hapy.

That's it for today. Thanks, as always, for following along-

Setting the Furnace

Continuing the fun with the furnace today. It being October, of course we had another issue with Hapy not starting so I'll touch on that as well. EDIT: oops. Didn't post on Hapy. Next time, I swear!

Plan and Plan Again

today's end-state

Recall our plan to move the furnace into the crawlspace. We had the work bid by a furnace company and they quoted us $12kUS; we recognized that as a "go away" price and chose to do it ourselves. My biggest considerations are around the combustion exhaust, so I spent some time researching this. According to multiple sources, an 80% efficient furnace needs a double-walled exhaust (check) and it must have an upward pitch of no less than .25" per foot. I thought that was fairly flat, so checked other sources. From this data point, I collected others, like how far from the ground is the bottom/top of the exhaust pipe heading into the chimney, where the exhaust exists the furnace, etc. With these numbers in mind, I set to planning where to set the furnace.

planning a hole

Initially, I planned to put it directly beneath where it had previously been. This would have changed the routing of the conditioned air, gas line, cold intake and exhaust the least. Unfortunately, this would have put the furnace right against a main beam running the width of the house, making seasonal maintenance impossible. Additionally, that spot under the furnace had an unexpected rectangular concrete curb that was smaller than the space we needed cleared. So, the furnace is going to be adjacent to that curb'd rectangle, but because the distance to the chimney is around 3 feet, and I would like an angle of assent that is greater than the minimum, the furnace will need to be almost on the ground. So, a plan that wound have suspended the furnace from the floor joists will be replaced with a plan that has the furnace a-fixed to the ground instead.

Dig Another Hole

hole dug

Obviously, I am not going to simply set the furnace on the vapor barrier on the ground. Beyond the fact that there are safety issues, the furnace needs to be up off the ground height-wise to get the exhaust angle I want and to minimize both the conditioned air and gas line routing. Instead, I decided to dig a foundation and set the furnace on a stand. That sounds so simple until you get down to trying to dig a hole when the headroom between the dirt and the bottom of the floor joists is less than 2 feet. Starting with my tools, I had a 5 gallon bucket for removing dirt, a small-bladed shovel with a broken-off handle, a crescent-moon scraper thing and a 4-prong hoe. I cut 3 sides of a rectangle into the vapor barrier with scissors and peeled it away, leaving a 2 foot by 3 foot rectangle of rough dirt. With the tools I mentioned, I removed probably 60 gallons of dirt, leaving a 2 foot by 3 foot hole nearly a foot deep. This took almost 3 hours since the whole thing was done on my belly.

gravelling

After taking a break for a few days, I returned and repaired the vapor barrier with thick black garbage bags. Along the cut edges, I made sure the plastic overlapped more than a handful of inches, and I lined the hole with sufficient slack so the additional layers of material would not cause gaps to form. Once satisfied, I added a 1/2 yard of gravel and moved it flat with a garden rake and then my gloved hands. On top of the gravel, I set 6 1-foot-square patio blocks. For each block, I made sure it was flat, and then flat to the adjacent block. As you can imagine for each block, this required multiple install-remove-install cycles and then additional ones to get the overall 6-block space flat. Between the gravel and the blocks, I probably spent 2 hours getting it level. This crawlspace patio will serve as a foundation for a stand upon which the furnace will rest.

Rack It

crawlspace patio

I initially thought I would simply use a pair of hot water heater stands for the furnace. I figured, they could withstand the weight of a full hot water heater so they could definitely hold a 70# furnace. I priced them but the cost and availability was not good. While searching, I found air conditioner stands designed to hold up to 400#. While local availability was again nil, the price was the same as for one hot water heater stand, and they are height adjustable. The rack I ordered was lost in shipping, so I switched the plan again. This time, I ordered a non-adjustable storage rack capable of holding 1000#. While I won't need anything that strong, this rack is also 2 foot by 3 foot in dimensions so it will fit into the hole, and potentially support the furnace better. When the rack arrived, I took the pieces into the crawlspace to consider my options. The rack is only "adjustable" by cutting legs to the height I need them to be. So.. adjust once, really.

prepping the legs

Accordingly, I wanted to be sure of my height, so I considered the exhaust run from where I expected the furnace to be over to the chimney. By suspending a long exhaust run, I could consider the angle of assent and the final destination for that edge of the furnace. From this, I could measure and math to the needed length for the furnace stand legs. You may notice from the pictures that I needed to move a couple of the blocks around too. Once satisfied, I took the rack back out from the crawlspace and cut the legs. Since the stand is really just unbraced legs, I added angle-irons at the bottom so I could mount the stand to the patio block. I then took the pieces to the crawlspace and re-assembled the stand. I set the stand where I planned, marked the holes on the patio blocks and took the stand apart again. Now, I could drill holes and mount the legs to the blocks. With the legs attached to the patio block, but not torqued down, I could set the stand top on, and then torque the concrete screws. I checked level along the way, pleased that all of this amateur work is level. Last, I bolted the legs to the top, using blue locktite so they would not work themselves loose from furnace vibration.

With the rack assembled, I was ready to move the furnace onto the stand. The gas line and the electrical will both enter the furnace from the bottom, and these will need to be routed so the "front" cover can be removed for seasonal servicing. The electrical entry has some wiggle room, but the gas line does not. I needed to account for these as I considered where on the stand the furnace would be placed. The stand is more than large enough to account for that adjustment and the space beneath it has ample room to run gas and electric.

rack installed

The furnace is heavy and the ceiling in the crawlspace is limited. I had feared that pushing and lifting it would be quite the undertaking for me (Boo had to work). My fears were not warranted, it turned out. To prevent the furnace from getting scratched up, I left in place the moving blanket in which we had moved it around under the house. This also reduced the friction as I moved it around. I set the furnace rear-ward of center on the stand, further from the chimney. This aligned with where I had expected it to go, mostly, leaving me with an exhaust run of around 3 feet along the plane, with a slight diagonal turn in it.. when I install it. The picture at the top of the post shows how it is right now, and no, the end furthest away is not touching the ground; it just kinda looks that way.

Exhausting

Once the furnace was in, I spent some time rough-assembling the exhaust. This consisted of taking the old exhaust down to it's most basic pieces and assembling a path that had the correct angles and took a slightly indirect route so I could route the cold air intake without interference. Once roughed-in, I took it back apart so I could easily get to the other side of the furnace. I have a great deal of "conditioned" air work to do, and having the fuller access will make that work easier.

This has gotten super long, and it has covered a few weeks of work. I was able to get another few hours in, but I'll couple that with whatever I get done next weekend into my next post. The calendar says 7-November, so, clearly, the weather is starting to get cold. We were fairly motivated when the daily high temperatures dropped into Autumn temps. We are getting overnight lows below freezing now, so there is no lack of motivation nor pressure. Still, I want to do it right and have a safe space once it is completed. Since I am doing it mostly by myself, it will only go so fast. At this point, I hope to have an operational furnace by the Winter Solstice.

Thanks, as always, for following along-

Chimney Repaired

In my last post about the NewOldHouse work, I described the efforts by the chimney guys. Today, I get after repairing the chimney and then sending a liner down through. I didn't take pictures when I was up on the roof, nor did I appear to get any after I removed all the failed-mortar ones. Oh well, there are a couple shots after the chimney after mortaring.

Out with the Bad

liner in, cap placed

This was actually very straight-forward and simple. With a framing hammer and an empty 5 gallon bucket, I climbed onto the roof. I set the ladder into an inner turn of the roof line so it could set against the gutter in the corner. This made getting on/off the ladder easier. It's funny how fglat a roof looks from the ground and how not-flat it feels once you're on it. Anyway, I carried the bucket and hammer over to the chimney to see what the chimney guys described. Sure enough, the mortar holding the bricks together at the top of the chimney was failing. After initially thinking I would just remove the loose bricks and clean them up on the ground, I fell into a different pattern.

As I removed each brick, I smacked the mortar that still clung to the brick with the hammer, directing the crumble into the 5 gallon bucket. Once the brick was unwilling to release any more mortar, I set it on the roof and moved on to the next one. Once the top course was clear, I swept the crumbling mortar into the bucket. I repeated this process for the 2nd course and found that the corner facing south west had additional loose bricks, so I took 3 or 4 out of the 3rd course and 2 out of the 4th course. Once they were all cleaned of mortar (and in some cases what looked like silicone), I swept up the roof into the bucket and climbed off the roof.

In with the Good

The next time I was able to get on the roof was the following weekend. Fortunately, even after the cold and wet weather initially arrives, we will often get some nice weather patches before the cold wet really sets in for the winter. This week and weekend were like that. So, leveraging a 5 gallon bucket as the means of mixing and transporting mixed mortar, I returned to the chimney work.

joiner for brick mortaring

The instructions on the bag and on the internet agreed that for 17 bricks, I needed to mix up 1/2 of a 80# bag of type N mortar. I had almost half of the mortar left when I was finished, so I think everyone overestimates how much product is wasted or lost in the process. Anyway, I put about a quart of water in the bottom of a clean 5 gallon bucket and then added around half the bag of mortar in. On top of that, I added water and mixed with a drill-attached mixer I got at harbor freight for mixing paint. It worked perfectly, getting the mortar evenly mixed. To test the water:mortar concentration, I learned that if you can scoop some onto a trowel and hold it vertically... and the mortar doesn't slide off... it's right. If it slides off, it's too loose. On my first go, it was too loose so I added some more mortar and mixed again. This time, it held to the trowel. Winner! Next, the mortar needs to rest for 10 minutes before use, so I set up the ladder and hauled tools up to the roof. The bucket of mixed mortar was last. This is some heavy stuff, so I pushed it up rung-by-rung ahead of me.

Once on the roof, I set to learning how to mortar bricks by doing. I'd watched a few videos, so I knew the basics, and after a few bricks, I actually got the hang of it. My process was to slap a blob down first, then butter the adjoining short end before setting the brick in place. I then pressed it down, squeezing a little of the mortar out the sides, but eliminating air pockets in the process. Then, I would peanut butter spread mortar along the outer and inner seams. Last, I would use the brick joiner tool (image above until HomeDepot changes the URL) to clean up the outer seam. Using this process, I set 17 bricks in just under 2 hours (the use-life of mortar is 2 hours after the 10 minute rest period).

Liner In

mortar fixed, no cap

With the chimney repaired on Saturday, I returned on Sunday to confirm the work. Things looked great, so I shifted to installing the chimney liner. I ordered a replacement liner to run the full length. I could have found a short section and abutted it to the end of the original liner, but finding a 3 meter (9 foot) length was a challenge. So, I removed the original liner from the cap and attached the new liner in it's place. The new liner arrived all compressed so I had to stretch it to the needed length. I set it on the ground alongside the old one and measured another 10 feet beyond that point. I then stretched out the new liner to that 10 foot point.

I hauled this bundle up onto the roof and slowly passed the liner down through the chimney until it hit bottom. Boo had been my on-the-roof witness (strongly advise you have a partner around when you are on the roof. One good wind and you could be on the ground. Without someone there, that could be life-altering... or -ending). At this point, though, we needed someone in the crawlspace so she got down in there. We lifted the liner up a touch so she could grab hold and then she simply pulled it through the hole. As she pulled, I pushed down on the chimney cap, until the ap was settled and the liner jutted out from the chimney by about 6 inches. Once the cap settled onto the chimney top, I could apply construction adhesive and fix the cap to the chimney. I chose to leave it until the furnace work is complete, though, in case we need to move things. Down in the crawlspace, Boo added the stiff adapter tube to the end of the flexible liner, reflecting the original install, and providing a firm surface to attach the furnace exhaust / flue.

I chose not to do anything more with the liner at this point, preferring to let the furnace work dictate where and when the liner would be cut in the crawlspace. I expect it will be cut similarly to how it was before: right at the chimney wall where a transition to a hard exhaust will appear. With the chimney  and liner solved, all of the outside work is complete. Next, I will be cleaning up the other rectangular ducting and then we can start to fix the furnace either to the ground or suspended from the floor joists.

That's it for now. Thanks, as always, for following along-

Cascade Equinox Festival 2023 - Report

In the past, I have created 3 separate posts for a festival: the road, the bands and then the festival itself. When the road trip brought perils, this made sense. Lately, though, Hapy has been driving so well, I don't really have much to say in the the road report. So, the road gets a subheading. We did not see much of the music this time either, so there's no point for a separate post there either. So, one big post.

There and Back Again

We had not taken a trip in Hapy since LeisureFest, but we had our gear relatively well organized. Unlike our usual night-time exit, we were unable to dodge out of work early. So, we did like everyone else and loaded up in the morning instead. We had some typical delays, like cleaning things and getting Tuukka to Aunt Linda's. We left home around 3, got some B20 at the usual corner station with a couple bags of ice and hit OR217 South. Cascade Equinox Festival is held in Redmond (due east of Sisters), so the route is fairly familiar: OR217 to I-5 to OR22 to OR20 into Sisters. From there, it's OR126 to Redmond. We have done the route as far as Sisters for 4Peaks, so we know the landmarks. We had not been through the Detroit Lake area since the wildfires a couple of years ago, so seeing both the devastation and the start of the regrowth was breathtaking. Hapy ran like a champ, and after the heavy traffic on I-5 lightened up south of Wilsonville, he purred the rest of the way.

We determined that the Vanagon rear-heater that I installed as a means of producing some heat in the bus is simply not up for the task. Since this heater capacity was designed as an auxillary heater for the back seat in a Vanagon, this should surprise no one, including me. To wit, we had virtually no heat on the drive out and only suggestions of heat on the way back. We remedied with lap-blankets, but I will need to do something more significant eventually. On the way out, we stopped only once at a rest area along OR20. On the way back we stopped at the iconic Sno-Cap in Sisters for lunch. We love Sno-Cap; the shakes are great and the service is small-town warm. The drive home was colored with a steady rain, which Hapy absolutely loved. His temp barely reached 185* most of the time, and with the help of a super-slow driver behind us holding back the heavy Sunday afternoon traffic through the mountains, we had OR22 to ourselves most of the way to Salem. We continue to consistently around 30mpg, even when loaded with gear. This trip was no different; when I finally filled up (after driving to the festival and back plus some around town driving) he got over 300 miles and about 30mpg.

Festival Upsides

installation art

Since one of the organizers for Cascade Equinox is the organizer for 4Peaks, Boo and I had an idea of what Cascade Equinox was going to be like. We were mistaken, but that wasn't all bad. There were 4 large installation art pieces being created over the course of the weekend. It was fun to watch the artists work, and see their pieces evolve. There were 6 music locations within the secured area, with up to 5 of them going at once. This created many options for what to see/hear when. The vendor area was significantly larger than 4Peaks, offering a wide array of products. I bought, and then lost, a ring, but otherwise our back-to-school shopping was limited. We sampled a few of the food vendors, and they were both good and popular. In terms of services, there were free showers and there was never a queue for a porta-potty.

Camping in Hapy, we discovered some upsides as well. We had not really used the side-walls of the BusDepot canopy before, but we did this time. They were incredibly easy to put up and take down, held firm in the gusty winds and the biggest surprise was how well they held in the heat from a Little Buddy heater. We slept very well and the sound-killer that I installed held the seemingly constant subwoofer to the background. We camped on flat, soft grass and had ample space for the bus and our canopy. We were able to collect solar to boost our luxury battery on Saturday. We had enough water from home so we did not need to source more, we brought plenty of simple food so we only cooked what and when we needed to. As far as a camping experience, it was great. Boo even got to read some of her book.

Festival Downsides

Unfortunately, there were quite a few things that did not go well. Some of these could be chalked up to a first-time event, but since both of the organizers have done events before, the oversights are worth noting.

Ticketing

the elusive map

When I first learned of this festival, I got super-early bird tickets the day they went on sale. At the time, they had not figured out camping nor even the schedule of things, just that it was equinox weekend. At some point, I was contacted about a car-camping ticket, so I added one. We discovered upon arrival that the terms of the festival attendance tickets changed / were refined after we bought them and that "early entry" was now an add-on. So, at the gate at 9:PM I had to pay another $145US or park outside and drive in / set up the next morning. We were cold so we paid, leaving us that much less to spend on vendors. In retrospect, perhaps we could have gone in in the morning. Anyway, once through the gates, we were led to the car-camping zone. 

Camping

Some of the biggest misses were around how they managed campers. First, the area was mapped out in very long (100 meters?) lines where cars were parked with one set of tires on the lines (see in top picture) and between the lines of parked cars alternated camps and fire-lane. On paper, this makes sense for maximum density. Because every car was hood-to-trunk with the car on either side, there were no cut-thru's for people to just walk by, so no one did. Accessing services meant walking all the way to the end of the fire-lane and then finding services. Which leads to the next 2 misses: porta-potties and water.

Drinking Water

When spending multiple days in the desert, it is highly advised to drink lots of water. In fact, from the stage at 4Peaks, we are often reminded to drink water. In light of this, the lack of access to drinking water for a large swath of the car-camping area was especially noticeable. Fortunately, Boo and I brought our usual 5 gallon water jug and I filled it before we left simply because our water here tastes very good, and water elsewhere often does not. Bringing our own is a luxury item, unless we find ourselves in a place which does not provide and suddenly it is a very precious resource. We discovered that there was a single source of water on the other side of the festival grounds (but within the camping ring around the festival grounds), had we walked that far. The return walk with a full 5-gallon would not have been fun.

Porta-Potties

Okay, all porta-potties are gross. That's just a given. In the camping zone, they were clumped in large groups, but very far apart. Once you made your way there, they were not serviced often, leaving you to bring-your-own-supplies. The first cleaning took place mid-afternoon Saturday, so for those who arrived when the gates opened on Thursday, that's a long go. Beyond that, the porta-potties themselves were especially disgusting. Even after they were cleaned, there was black mold on the walls and inexplicable yuck on the floor. Fortunately, once the gates opened, there were better services inside: actual bathrooms which appeared to have been cleaned before the festival started but not afterwards. So, it was bring-your-own-supplies even then. Had security been more thorough, it would have made for interesting conversations.

Gate Entry

sidewalls hold in heat!

Because of staffing or staff-allocation of security, the entry gate from the camping area into the "secured" festival area did not open until almost noon every day. On Friday, they didn't open until 2:30. Since the stages started at 10:AM, and most of the folks who would have been inside were camping, the early artists did not enjoy much of an audience. For campers who did not bring food, water or coffee with them (we see this a lot at festivals), they needed to trek to the other side of the festival grounds to gain entry thru the main gate for breakfast.

Security

Since this was the first year, Boo and I could forgive the marked lack of volunteers. What was surprising, though, was the large number of security people. Once the camper gate was staffed, there were at least 6 security people there, though it was usually 8 or 10. Only one person got through at a time, with one security person checking a bag and another patting people down. I don't know what the other 4-6 people were doing beside appearing as a show of force. Even still, it was evident that many of the security people were on their first assignment as Boo and I watched them get verbal training one morning prior to opening the gate. Even still, I am not sure what they actually stopped from entering. On the last day, I had forgotten that I had a pocketknife in my pocket; they didn't find it and I didn't volunteer it. They never found my bathroom supply in my cargo-pant pocket.

Maps / Directionals / Signs

camper entry

Once through the gate, there was very little to help you gain your bearings. There wasn't a map posted in physical form anywhere. On Friday afternoon, I found the map above buried on the website. Inside the festival grounds, however, there were no guideposts and very few signs. At one point on Friday, we asked a vendor what stage we were next to, and they didn't know either. With the map above, we figured out later that it was Harvest.

Use of Space

I wasn't sure where else to put these. First, there were carnival rides in the middle of product and food vending. This seemed like a strange place to put them, and, frankly, they appeared to be little used when we walked past. I understand that having a Ferris Wheel at a festival has become an expectation, but I honestly don't know why though I can see the appeal of combining psychedelics and carnival rides to a much younger version of myself. It still seemed strange to have them in the middle of vending. Second, there were 2 stages near one another (Equinox and Harvest) which created a sonic cacophony in between while a third indoor stage (Gravity) that wasn't used all day. Unfortunately for the vendors in the zone between Harvest and Equinox, this area was fairly clear of attendees whenever both stages were going. What made this such an odd decision was that the Harvest stage had artists who could have otherwise been in the "Gravity" stage/room, in terms of space. Gravity was a great room, easily larger than the tented "small stage" at 4Peaks, but it was empty until after Harvest closed for the night, at which point it opened. In our humble opinion, the Harvest stage could be eliminated, using that space for more vendor/food/hangout space. Maybe that's where the Ferris Wheel goes? Regardless, staging those Harvest-artists in Gravity where they are not competing with Equinox for sound-space would have enabled the attendees to really hear what they're doing... and maybe hang out for whoever is next. Considering how cold it was, simply being inside could have increased the audiences for the Harvest staged artists.

Impressions

"follow your dreams"

We did see some of the bands and were very impressed with how much Yak Attack has grown since we saw them years ago. They pulled a huge crowd into the Harvest stage area, getting a couple hundred people groovin. DirtWire, and Phantogram also stood out to us.

Unfortunately, our festival experience was colored by 2 independent health challenges. First, I appear to suffer some form of altitude-sensitive anemia so it takes me a couple of days to adjust to the higher altitude of central Oregon (2k  feet above sea level). I had a similar super-low-energy experience at 4Peaks in 2017(?), and recognize that I need to supplement with iron prior to going -or- arrive a couple of days early if I want to avoid that. Second, we had a fried rice dish from one of the vendors and triggered Boo's sensitivity to MSG. We ate and she almost immediately fell asleep, missing Friday night's artists. Last, it was cold and windy the entire time. The overnight temperatures were below 4*C (40*F) and daytime highs barely touched 20*C (68*F). Once the wind chill is added in, temperature was a near-constant challenge.

Totally unrelated, but I feel compelled to at least comment on it: do you see that sign in the "camper entry" picture? First Interstate Bank. First Interstate suffered a hostile takeover by Wells Fargo over 25 years ago, yet there are multiple First Interstate Bank signs around the fairgrounds, and they are in amazing shape. Clearly, the operators of the venue take care of the space if 25+ year old signs can look that good after sitting outdoors the entire time.

As we look back on this festival, I don't think we will be returning. The vibe of the festival seemed to be very "stick-with-your-tribe" oriented. From how the camping area was set up to tables near food vending to hang-out zones, none of the design appeared to support creating chance encounters or accidental conversations with people you didn't know. Quite the contrary, it seemed designed to support small groups staying connected to each other, but disconnected from everyone else. Even a queue for the porta-potties or restrooms creates that kind of 1:1 shared experience. The last picture, however, illustrates how the attendees were looking for that greater connection as this came from a "take something leave something" table that someone had set out in the fire-lane near their car. We left a fist-full of tea bags which had been picked up by someone else shortly thereafter. Clearly, there was a pulse there that the organizers failed to tap. Anyway, we wish them luck, but we will probably be celebrating the autumnal equinox in other ways in the future.

That's it for now. Back to the furnace next week-