Hapy Daily Driving

Well, that title might be overstating it a little bit. To clarify: Hapy is now capable of driving on a moment's notice. With the CoViD safer-at-home, I haven't been going anywhere. I may not have had an operable car for most of the last couple of months, but the lockdown has meant I haven't really needed one either. Today, I'll cover the little things that needed to be buttoned up after the big re-wire.

Reverse Lights

I mentioned the reverse lights at the end of the Electrical Gremlins saga. I had it wired up to a somewhat mystery switched 12V source before. When I tore the old wiring rats nest apart, it was left out of the new wiring. This resolution was fairly easy. Back when I set the mystery wire-up aside, I left the plastic-snap-shut fused wire in tact. So, there was just a plain bare wire to deal with. I fished it up into the spare tire well / wiring compartment from the engine bay. I spliced the wire into the switched source splice coming from relay 109 so the reverse lights will only come on when the computer thinks we are in "RUN". Since it already had an integrated fuse, this was a simple splice effort.

Headlight Flasher

When I was chasing the cause for my lack of amps during P0121 testing, I tore into the dash. I thought I had bumped something loose, and there are a bunch of things in there that could have shaken apart. Well, I didn't bump anything loose causing that issue, but I did bump something during that exploratory. Haha. During the Summer of 2020, I finally got my high-beam / low-beam flasher relay to work. It was because the replacement relay requires a source of 12V to pin 30. This pin wasn't on the old relay, and there is no wire leading to that pin in the original fuse box. I solved that before, but when I was looking for the buzzing noise during the P0121 effort, I pulled that relay and the wire heading to that pin fell out of the fuse box. I didn't notice that then. During post-testing, I discovered that the flasher no longer flashed. I found the wire, re-oriented it so it would not fall out, and returned things back to their prior cleaned-up state (zip-tied fuse-box). Hi-beam flash/relay works.

Defroster

Also in the Summer of 2020, I installed a defroster. Sort of. The defroster solution was moving the Vanagon rear heater under the belly, routing coolant along the driver side main beam and plumbing into the old air channel from just behind the front crossbeam. The air source was an experiment pulling from the old rear floor vent. The mechanical connection of the hoses to the heater was poor, and the experiment fell apart. This source needed to be remedied. Also, the switch was not operating the fan settings correctly. This was caused by poor quality wire connectors, so once the 3 at the switch and the 2 near the heater were replaced, we have a 3 speed fan again.

I decided that rather than solve for a cabin-source of air for the defroster, I would just remove the experiment for now. I have an idea for a source, but other cars need my focus. So, I removed the air supply hoses and called it good enough for now.

Mop Up

During all of the wiring work, the inside of the bus became considerably disheveled. It was one part shed, one part tool box and no part looking like a vehicle. This was easy to resolve, but made a huge difference in declaring the end of the work. The lot couch is back installed as a middle-row bench seat, for example. The rear speakers are hooked up and placed for sound again. After a quick trip with the shop-vac to get the wire-strippings and other fallout from all the work vacuumed up, he looked nearly ready.

I ran a test of the furnace, confirming that it would run on either the accessory battery or the main. It will, but the current draw for the glow-plug is so significant that I'm not sure I will want to start that heater if I am not running at least a float charger to the sourcing battery. Still, it moved the internal temperature of the bus from 43*F to 68*F (6*C to 20*C) in about 15 minutes. For the fuel-minded, it took about 500ml (or ~0.13US gallons or about 2 cups). As I understand it, maintaining the temperature requires far less fuel, so the consumption at that point dropped way off. I left it running for about an hour and the total consumed ml was about 530ml or 30ml (1/8 cup) for the remaining 45 minutes of keeping the bus warm.

I took one last step: I installed plastic kick panels I ordered like a year ago against the rear of the nose of the bus. Just like that, the cab looks like it is not an active project. It looks fairly clean now, actually. They install and remove easily, and once snapped in they really do not appear to need much more to hold them in place. The guy who makes them suggests poking holes through and screwing them into your bus. I might use Velcro, but I'll withhold decision-making until after we have had a few drives to see if they rattle or not.

Getting Legal

This last thing was actually one of the first things I did for Hapy after I set Zed aside. In fact, I think it was the registration that got me thinking about Hapy in the first place. His registration came due, and because of CoViD-19, I had to do it remotely. Since he is too old for smog and Oregon does not have inspections, I have been renewing his registration online for a few years. Still, this time I did the online steps in October 2020, but did not receive the stickers for his tag until January 2021. This used to take a couple of weeks at most. It sure felt good getting those stickers on his plates, though.

Test Drive

With the tags updated, the wiring fresh, the defroster responding, furnace functioning, etc... Hapy appeared nearly ready to be pressed into service. We just needed a test drive. For that, I did my usual neighborhood lap through a series of side streets out to the main drag, a quick 1-mile straight shot on that major street and then turning back into the side streets for home. As expected, Hapy was fairly peppy and responsive. He sounds great, and did not suffer any P0121 issues. There were a few stutters, but no codes, so I chalked that up to old diesel. That will solve with some snake oil and a fill-up. Considering that Hapy had not left the driveway in over a year, this drive was significant, albeit short.

Alt-Light

The battery light came on when the engine was revving low during the test drive, leading me to think that the unsettling "pop" noise I heard when the wiring was wrong (See Chasing the Hapy Electrical Gremlins - Part 6) was the sound of my alternator frying. This light had been popping on during testing, so the fact that it returned during the road-test honestly just reminded me. Before I jumped into anything, I in-bus tested the alternator: I alligator-clipped a fused wire to the alternator output and ran that wire on the ground up to the cab. There, I electrical-taped the bare wire to the positive probe of my multi-meter to free a hand. I set the negative probe into a small bolt-hole in the driver door frame for a good ground. First, a good base reading: 13.5V. Cool. I started the engine and it dropped down to 12.4V. Solid. With my hand on the go pedal, I revved the engine and watched the voltage climb up and down peaking above 14V. So, the alternator is fine. Since I have been running without an ALT/GEN light for 10 years, I could just ignore that light... Nah, I just can't do that. I figured that the bulb must simply be connected to the wrong wire of the 2 in the ALT plug.

I had spliced into the wire heading to the computer (DFM - or Digital Field Monitoring), and it needs to hit the one that routes to the cluster (L - Lamp). Simple fix: I cut the splice from the donor main harness to the 6-wire cable, and tied it into the other wire from the plug just upstream from the 4-pin plug. While I was back there, I added ring terminals to the sensor wires for the oil pressure and oil idiot light. There remains some wiring tidying I need to do on the driver's side, so I'll cut out the rest of the DFM-sourcing wire when I'm in there. 

As much as I'd like to say that once I completed, I took another test drive... I can't. I did test start and engine-rev in-place, however, just to see that ALT light wink out (which it did). Why did I not drive him? Well, remember Gramps (1996 VW Jetta 2-dot-slow from my folks that we gave to K2)? He re-appeared with a failed throw-out bearing after the first test drive, but before I'd solved the ALT light. So, I will have to juggle the herd to get Hapy free for a drive. And, you can probably guess what I'll be working on next.

That's it for today. While I may not need to go out much due to CoViD restrictions, I now have my beloved turbo-diesel powered microbus available-ish for whenever the need arises. While there are lots of little things I could tweak on Hapy, none of those things would prevent me from taking a drive. Sweet, sweet success. Thanks, as always, for following along.

Defrosting - Part 4

After that fun experiment, I really couldn't get myself back to sanding. So, today, I am going to talk through the electrical set up. I will eventually get back to sanding and Bondo, and more sanding and then primer... and more sanding...

12V and Grounding

routing wiring

Unlike my stereo installs, this time I started with the most basic of wiring: B+ (12V supply) and ground. For the supply-side, there was one remaining basic bladed fuse spot in the battery-top fuse location that wasn't already in use. I spliced a 12ga wire into that spot, and ran that wire along the other back-to-front wires along the passenger side. Leaving myself plenty of extra length, I stripped the end.

Then I switched over to the ground side. Again, with a 12ga wire, on one end I added a ring terminal and screwed it into the rear cross-beam where I have the radiator fans grounded. On the other end, I added a female spade connector. With these 2 wires, I tested the heater to make sure the fan would spin at different speeds based on which of the 3 male connectors was given 12V. First, of course, I added a 20A fuse into the bladed fuse spot. I felt this would work, since the heater unit worked before, but again, I probably could have tested this when the heater was freshly out of the bus and on the ground rather than waiting until it was installed, register constructed and installed, etc.

All 3 speeds work. While the fan was running I crawled out from under the bus and checked the air flow at the windscreen. I don't think the lowest speed will really be terribly useful, but the middle and upper speed should be sufficient to clear the screen, I think. Any of them will be better than the squeegee / towel method bus drivers usually use.

Control Wiring

finished view from underneath

Satisfied that the fan will work, I shifted over to how to control the fan. In my shelve of random stuff, I have about 10 meters of trailer wiring. This is a flat cable which contains 4 16ga wires. I felt that 16ga was too thin to carry the current for the middle and upper speed, but should not overheat for the lowest setting. After my findings above about the usefulness of the lowest setting, I'm not sure it will be used much anyway. So, my thought is that I will send 12V from the supply up to the fan switch through one wire and the signal for which speed will pass through the other 3:

Red - 12V
Black - low
White - mid
Green - hi

Similar to the cable I sent front-to-back for the gauges earlier, I sent this cable along the main harness, through the center belly pan and through a new hole I cut next to the other 2. I made sure this hole was fairly large (1/2-inch) so I could send a thicker control cable through that hole later. With the cable hanging on the emergency brake handle, I wired up the rear end. First, I removed about 4 inches of cable jacket so I could work with the wires individually.

To the Green and White wires in the flat cable, I attached female disconnects. I put together a pair of 12ga wires with female disconnects on either end, each wire is about 40 centimeters (15 inches) long. These will go from the relays to the fan for the mid and hi speeds. I put together a pair of 12V supply wires for the relays: each wire is about 10 centimeters (4 inches) long with a female disconnect on one end and a long (1cm) stripped end. The stripped ends were spliced together. These stripped ends were then fed into one end of a larger crimp-splice. Into the other end went the 12V source from the battery as well as the Red wire from the flat cable. I did something similar for the ground side, creating a pair of short wires that were then spliced into the ground for the heater. With all the wiring ready, it was time to plug in the relays.

Relays

these area a matched pair. Mine aren't

I was fortunate to have 2 12V automotive relays in my cache of electrical stuff. While they were both old Radio Shack relays, they were not identical so the pins had different arrangements of pins between them. Of course, my eyesight isn't that of a young man, so each pin was managed carefully. I started with the ground wires going to pin 85 and the signal wire going to pin 86. The 40cm wires connected to pin 87, with the other end going to their respective fan pin. Last, the 12V wires connected to pin 30.

These relays delivered with a mounting hole molded into the plastic housing, like the picture here. Most folks would send a screw through that hole and mount it into the body somewhere. Well, first, I guess I'm not most people and second, getting a drill up under the bus with a flat enough angle to put a hole through the crossbeam, and high enough to keep the wires up out of the air stream was simply not possible. So, instead, I ran a cable tie through, and zipped them up to one of the steel tubes running just under the floor. This held the relays up near the floor. Last, I wrapped the wiring with one of those plastic wire loom things so rather than seeing a bunch of wires hanging around, you only see one black cable.

I tested the relays before I moved on. I did that by simply jumping the 30 with the corresponding pin 86. Once the relay clicked and the fan spun up, I moved on.

Fan Switch

silver on the knob may be too shiny

With the fans all wired, I needed to put in a switch. I did not want to reuse the old vanagon rear heater switch again. I was unable to get it to mount well before, and there are so many viable alternative options out there. I went with a made-in-USA INDAK switch. These have a standard 1/4 inch shaft, but the threaded mounting shaft is slightly thicker than the standard hole in the bus dash. I had to expand the hole with a drill bit to 11mm. On the side that is buried within the dash, there are 5 pins, though I only need 4 of them. The extra one (labeled "C") is for powering a clutch or lighting a bulb to let you know the fan is on. I think we'll be able to figure out if the fan is on without a light. I wrapped that pin with heat shrink so it wouldn't accidentally short out. Of course, when I run the battery down because I forgot that the fan was on the low setting, I'll post about it. Hahaha. I checked the length of the flat cable and then added female disconnects to the 4 wires. Following the table above, I plugged in the switch.

pay no attention to the dangling wires

I ran one more set of tests to make sure the fans spun at the right speed for the various switch settings. Once satisfied, I slid the switch through the hole I had expanded earlier, threaded on the mounting nut, popped on the knob and called the electrical done. Hazah!

So, I guess that's kind of it for the defroster for now. I will improve the sourcing of the input air as well as add a control for the amount of coolant flowing into the heater core, but I don't know when I'll get to that. Frankly, the way I've been avoiding the Zed bodywork, it could start tomorrow. Hahaha...

Thanks, as always, for following along. Stay safe. Please wear your mask covering both your nose and your mouth (seriously people. that much should be obvious). A mask is not a political statement; it is to protect the people around you, whether you or they believe in CoViD-19 or not.

Defrosting - experiment

And so it continues. I think, when it comes right down to it, I don't want to do paint prep. Sanding sucks. I see why most people pay others to do this when they can. Ugh. So, I'm dodging it for another day and clowning on Hapy instead. Today, I hacked together something as an air intake for the defroster/heater. This was only an experiment, and a way to kill some time in the Summer sun.

Winter is Wet, Summer is Hot
With some nice weather settling in, I am finding pleasure in doing little things that do not involve getting super dusty from sanding. Or worse, getting super sweaty and then having sand-dust settle onto that sweat. So, instead, I did a semi-worthless effort on the heater/defroster. One of my ongoing concerns for this heater is that when I hit a puddle, the wet will hit the heater air intake and my windscreen will instantly fog up. I figured I could slap something together as an experiment to reduce that risk. So, off to the headed-to-the-dump pile I go.

Dumpster Diving, the Home Game

vent-hole end

The tipping fee at the dump seems to climb every year. They get you for, like $25US just to drive in, so we will usually queue a load and make a run to the dump once a year. This year, that pile includes an array of rusted car parts (big surprise) and a carpet cleaner that fell apart. That carpet cleaner provided me a couple of 1-1/4 inch diameter hoses to use as an air intake. I rinsed them out with the garden hose and let them dry in the sun while I figured out how to connect the hoses between the heater intake and some part of the bus.

Back to the pile. I found some 1-1/4 inch PVC pipe. This pipe fit perfectly inside the hoses, so I had the makings of hose bib's. I cut 4 3-inch lengths, and put the rest back in the dump pile. Why 4? Because I will use the hoses in parallel. Why? Because the air intake side of the Vanagon rear seat heater is designed such that one of the coolant lines runs straight across the intake. Back when I had this unit on the luxury battery tray I had added a flange to attach a 4" dryer vent hose, but I didn't have any dryer vent hose in the dump pile and I wanted to do this experiment with free stuff.

Last, I picked up the original bottom plate for the defroster heat register that I discarded in my last post about this defrost saga. I figured I could cut something up to go against the air intake out of that tin.

Hack, but Free

free supplies

The bus air system originally has a floor vent between the front seats that routes air back to the main cabin. There is a cable-controlled flap that Y's off of the main air pipe into a corregated hose. On Hapy, that hose was falling apart when I bought him, and the cable-controlled flap was rusted shut. So, I removed the hose, tapes off the openings at either end with that fancy metal HVAC tape and didn't think about it again. Until now. I thought I would try to source cabin air from that vent. The vent hole, however, is smaller than the combined 1-1/4 inch bibs. So, I cut a pair PVC pipes on an angle and super-glued the angled sides together so the narrowed end could fit into that vent hole.

On the other end, I cut up the discarded HVAC tin into a 4 inch circle with 2 1-1/4 inch holes in it that aligned with a gap between the coolant line and the edge of the flange. In an effort to just get it together, I attached the PVC pipes with glue and that metal HVAC tape. I do not expect this to last terribly long, but this was just to see if the idea was viable. Besides, this whole experiment was to get me out of sanding... No, that doesn't make sense, but don't throw logic at me. I am justifying why I'm not sanding. Anyway, I slid the hoses over the respective bibs, and now we have a means of testing whether we can motor through a puddle in cold weather and avoid fogging the windshield.

Next Time

inlet side hack

Truth-be-told, I will probably be getting some dryer venting for the house anyway, so I'll just buy a meter more than I need for the house. There is a hole in the driver-side belly pan around which I can attach a flange. I should be able to fit a hose, albeit wedged up and folded by the coolant line, onto the flange on the heater, and connect that to the flange I add to the belly pan. Regardless, this was a fun experiment, and kept my hands and brain busy on an otherwise lazy summer Saturday during the CoVid-19 safer-at-home period.

Thanks for following along. I might do something more constructive next time I avoid sanding. Or, I'll actually do the sanding and my next post will be about an old trip or the threat to humanity currently occupying the white house or maybe (shock!) I'll actually post about sanding. Nah, that would not be interesting reading. Stay safe, stay physically distant and please consider that you wear a mask to protect others regardless of their politics. Or yours.

Defrosting - Part 3

I have spent the better part of my free time over the last several weeks sanding and hammering on the Zed. If you do that long enough, eventually you need a break, to focus on something else. Otherwise, you'll lose interest in the job, or maybe working on cars in general, and find yourself taking a few weeks off, like I did last winter when I did the TDI retrospectives. I just didn't feel like working on my cars and the weather was crappy, so motivation was at a premium. Anyway, today's post collects together the bits and pieces of hours I've spent taking a break from the sanding to move one little step forward on Hapy's defroster.

Model First

model from p-side rear

One thing I've learned along the way is to model what you want to build before you built it. With the speakerbox I built for Oliver (the MGB), I built a box out of cardboard first, That allowed me to really understand how it could fit before I started cutting MDF. I did the same thing for the heat register in Hapy when I did the parking heater. So, it should come as no surprise that I built a model of the defroster register with cardboard before starting in on the zinc-coated steel.

This had some aspects that were similar to the parking heater register: I needed to connect a round inlet/outlet with a rectangular inlet/outlet. That is about where the similarity ended, though. The space I had available, and the means of accessing that space made the design of this register quite different.

Piecing It Together

model from d-side rear

I started with a top-plate that matched the 9" wide heater, with 2 partial sides that dropped about 3 inches on each side. This is a simple rectangle with 2 90* bends. For the bottom I tried a trapezoid shape, with a large rectangle in the center, aligning the 9" bottom of the heater with the bottom of the front cross-support bottom. The sides are triangles that bend upwards, overlapping with the 2 sides dropping from the top. These two pieces would be held together with sheet metal screws, and the seams taped with the same contractor-grade metal HVAC tape. This shape is obvious, but it does not route the air towards the round hole. It just compresses the air from a 9" by 6" rectangle to a 9" by 3" rectangle. I figured there would probably be significant air turbulence, reducing the actual air-flow down the pipe to the floor or windscreen.

To reduce the turbulence, and improve the air flow, I added 2 trapezoid-shaped angled sides. Three straight sections were parallel to the heater face and the cross-beam as well as along the top. The one the angled side runs along the bottom from the lower edge of the heater to the lower edge of the cross-beam, just to the side of the round hole. Now, this still wasn't perfect, since the register now ends in a square, around the round hole. I figured this was the best amateur register I could come up with.

Install Planning

nutria and ducks in harmony

Finishing the model took many trips under the bus, fitting and then sliding back out to trim or add material (blue tape). Once I had the piece constructed so I could fit it into place, I needed to figure out how to install it such that I could assemble it in-situ, but could disassemble it and remove it when necessary. Note I didn't say "if"; it's wise to assume that you will need to undo something or you are just making life difficult for your future you.

The top plate was fairly straight forward. It could go in independently, simply by tipping the front (front is front) downward and sliding the rear edge up and over the top of the heater, rotating the front into place and then settling the plate down. The bottom was similarly easy, just offer it up. The challenge was with the angled side-runs.

I had considered pop-riveting the side-runs to the top in-place. This would have been difficult to undo for removal, so I planned on sheet metal screws instead. The side-runs got extra tabs along the top and bottom through which I drilled a pair of holes in each. These holes aligned to holes in the top and bottom so I could screw the side plates first into the top and then into the bottom.

Build and Fit

model to tin

Once I had it all working with a cardboard model, I transferred the lines to the zinc-coated HVAC sheet metal and cut the lines with tin-snips. As could be expected, the lines weren't perfect and some additional fitting was necessary. In fact, I abandoned large parts of the model entirely to get it to fit. First, getting the angled sides to fit in-situ with screws was simply not going to happen. Second, and more important, the cardboard model had flex to it that belied the fit. So, I abandoned the screws and held the sides to the top with that really good metal HVAC tape on both sides. I also used this tape to hold the front of the top section to the cross-beam.

Then, the real fun began. The bottom plate did not fit; at least not on the passenger side. I am not sure how, but the passenger side ended up about 25mm too long. It was just off. Again, I credit the flexibility of the cardboard during the modelling. Boo had asked why I had retained the fuller size of the bottom, stretching all the way across the whole span, when the sides really abbreviated how much I would really need. This is why working in groups is so powerful. Taking her advice, I modeled a new trapezoid-shaped bottom out of cardboard that would fit between the sides, front and back. I transferred to the flashing a cardboard cut up of a new bottom. Again, I used the metal HVAC tape to attach the sides to the bottom as well as the front and back. While this isn't as "perfect", the goal will still be met: air flow from heater/defroster will route into the original air pipe. With careful use of tape, I was able to have only the silver part of the tape visible from the sides.

When I can't take the body-work any longer, I will look into running the wiring and switch for the defroster fan. I'll post when I get to it. I did test the register by running a fused 12V source to the heater unit (and grounding the heater). The register had a couple small leaks that were easily fixed with more metal HVAC tape. That stuff is magical.
Thanks, as always, for following along--

Defrosting - Part 2

First, happy belated Summer Solstice. Our annual pilgrimage to Bend for 4Peaks which usually coincides with Summer Solstice and Father's Day was thwarted by CoViD this year. So, we are taking the side-lining as an opportunity to fix or upgrade things on the bus that are just too hard to do in the cold and rain. It seems with every improvement, I discover 2 more opportunities. Today (hopefully) begins the end of the defrost epic. In my last post about the defroster, I provided background. Today, I get started on the plan I described.

Tear Down
While I had disconnected the electrical from the Vanagon rear heater a while back, the coolant lines were still hooked up. So, my first step to removing it was unhooking those hoses. The clamps are easy enough to loosen with a Phillips screwdriver, and I was able to back the hoses off the barbs with a slotted screwdriver. With each one, I quickly moved the hose end into a clean bucket to catch the coolant. Once the lines and the heater were drained, I could extricate the heater unit from the shelf. With all of the wires and cables, this took a few minutes, and the resulting empty shelf doesn't look much better. Quite the contrary, actually, but, it does create a much better space for me to re-arrange the wiring one day. Yeay, more work.

Defroster Placement

valve shown closed

With the Vanagon rear heater in-hand, I could try out some ideas for how to fit it under the bus. The radiator sits just in front of the rear cross-beam, leaving a little over a foot between the front edge and the front cross beam. It is into this small window that the heater will fit. I held it up and thought about my options. If held right-side up with the front edge of the heater parallel to the cross beams, the coolant barbs would be facing rearward on the passenger side and the mounting tabs would be on the bottom. There looked to be enough space in front for a cowling or register to be put so the approximately 9" by 6" rectangular box could winnow down to the 3" diameter circle of the old air channel. The angles would be kind of sharp, but the air flow would be direct.

If the heater unit was turned sideways, the barbs would face the driver side. The air would need to make a hard left and it didn't look like there would be much space. So, I rejected that orientation.

I tried flipping the heater upside down, back in the parallel-to-the-front-beam position. Like this, the barbs were still on the driver side, but facing rearward. Since the coolant lines leaving the engine were also on the driver side, this was preferable. The drawback to this set up is that the bleeder screw is on the bottom, not the top. So, getting the air out of the system could be more difficult. In contrast, though, the mounting tabs were now on the top, so any attachment would be greatly simplified. The simple attachment won the decision. In this orientation, the valve for allowing / preventing coolant into the heater core was also on the driver side, sliding forward and aft for open and closed (respectively).

Defroster Mounting

safety hole drilled

Before I could consider routing coolant and air, the rear heater needed to be attached. The mount holes are exactly 7" apart. So, I found the centerpoint in the air pipe and measured 3-1/2" out from each. I aligned the heater on those lines and pushed it as far rearward as I could before it touched the debris-grill on the radiator. My thought was that the more gentle the angles in the air register, the more easily air would flow into the old pipe. As is, the front of the heater is about 4" back from the front cross-beam. Once the spots were marked, I drilled 2 holes through the floor. Through these holes, I sent a pair of 2" long bolts. From below, I nutted down against the floor with a pair of nuts, then added another pair less than 1/2" from the ends. I slid the heater unit onto the bolts and then nutted it down with another pair of nuts. So, that's bolt head | floor | nut - some space - nut | heater | nut. I put some threadlock on the bolts. Before I added the heater, I set an extra (safety) hole through the mounting tabs. Through this hole I sent a cable-tie, and then looped each side up to the pipe that the transmission shifter runs through. I figured that if the nuts found some way to work themselves free, the cable ties would hold the heater until I discovered and fixed it. Figure, the likelihood of both nuts coming loose and both cable-ties breaking before I realize something's up is fairly remote.

Get Hosed

"defroster unit" installed

From the engine to the Vanagon rear heater / bus defroster is a stretch of a little less than 8 feet. From the prior install, I have 1 meter lengths of 5/8" hose attached to the outlet and inlets, draped into a bucket of shallow coolant. I did a little research and learned that the Vanagon had 5/8" hoses, but there was a section of hose or pipe through the firewall that was only 1/2". There is also a restrictor of some kind that reduces the coolant flow to the rear heater. The theory is that if the rear and front heater units present the same diameter, the coolant will take the shorter path (rear heater), leaving the front of the Vanagon wanting. Well, we don't need the restrictor, but we can use the 1/2" pipe concept. I figure if the original can handle the smaller pipe, and deliver coolant without a pressure issue, we can use the smaller diameter pipe, potentially getting the coolant to the defroster faster. Maybe it will stay that little bit warmer. Ultimately, I had 1/2" pipe and I didn't have 5/8" pipe, so maybe I'm just back-justifying.

pipes in, hoses started

Aaanyway, I cut 2 33" lengths of 1/2" aluminum pipe, wrapped them with pipe insulation and mounted them to the underside of the driver-side belly pan, at least 6" inboard of the diesel heater exhaust. For mounts, I used 1/2" pipe hangers threaded into the bottom of the pan with long Phillips head sheet metal screws. Onto each end of the 1/2" aluminum pipes, I added a short stretch of 1/2" hose, and then a 1/2" -to- 5/8" reducer. At the rear-end (front is front), I attached the 5/8" hoses that were hanging in the bucket, previously used to route coolant from the engine to the heater. At the front end, I ran a stretch of 5/8" from the engine-outlet side to the lower barb, and the upper barb to the engine-inlet side. My thinking was that if there were an air bubble, it would be forced through and back to the engine... or at least down to the bleeder screw. On that, I have been considering how to thread in a short stretch of hose into the bleeder threads in thinking that I could raise the other end above the heater core for bleeding. I haven't pieced that all together yet.

I'll stop here for now. I did fill the system with coolant, opening the various bleeders along the way. I burped out air and then ran the engine for a while trying to get any other air out. We'll see how effective I was. As is, Hapy is drive-able again, with a completely closed cooling system. Next, I need to tackle the register, connecting the heater to the air duct and then wiring up the fan.

As we get deeper into the summer, this project seems less important, but fall feels right around the corner. If we ever get to see live music again, or simply camp in a State Park, having a means of clearing the windscreen hasn't a season here in the Pacific Northwest where the dew point is usually only a few degrees away.

Thanks, as always, for following along. You don't need to believe in CoViD-19 to catch it; you just need to be careless, or be around others who are. Please continue to wear a mask, wash your hands and practice physical distancing for the better health of those around you--

Defrosting - Part 1

No, this post isn't about how to remove frosting from a cupcake or the like. Today's post (and, knowing me, the next several) is a return to the seemingly never-ending effort to clear the windscreen on the old VW bus.

Modern Set-Up

It probably makes sense to start at the beginning. Most folks who drive modern cars do not realize how spoiled they are. The engine is sitting right in front of you, and it is water-cooled, providing a great source for warm air. The defroster system has relatively short hoses to move that coolant from the engine to the heater core inside the little plastic chamber (like the one pictured to the right here) below the windscreen. The heater core is controlled with short cables or little motors controlled from the dash, routing air through short channels into the cabin or up onto the windshield. In my more modern cars, I can push a button and fire up the air conditioner (A/C) and speed up the defrost even faster. You probably knew all that, but still it is important to have that context. One last little bit worth mentioning: the source of the outside air is usually right in front of the windshield up on top. This gives the highest probability of fresh air.

Original VW Bus Set-Up

from JBugs of a Beetle but you get
the basic idea

The bus is not at all like the modern car I just described. We start with the obvious: the engine is in the back and it is air-cooled. Back when these buses were new and before owners got their hands on them, the design of the heat/defrost system was relatively simple. The air cooled engine produces lots of heat, especially off the exhaust manifolds. This is a heat source for all cars, frankly, but the German engineers latched onto the exhaust manifolds for the cabin heat source. They did so by wrapping big metal sheets around the exhaust manifolds and called them "heater boxes". Air was driven through these heater boxes by the engine fan when the engine was running fast enough. Alternatively, there was a "booster" blower fan when the engine was not fast enough. The air was forced from the very rear of the bus through these boxes to a pair of controllers (one on each side) that were activated by a cable adjusted on the dashboard with a pair of levers (one lever per cable). From the controllers, corrugated tubes connected to a "Y" joint, then to a long central pipe up the center of the bus to the front. This picture on the right here shows a slightly different story for the Beetle, but the concept is very similar. At the bus driver's right foot there is a lever which directs the air either to the floor register or up to the windshield.

When it was originally constructed, I imagine that it worked quite well. Unfortunately for many bus owners this system is not typically well maintained. Parts are removed for "performance" reasons (heater boxes are often sacrificed), they deteriorate and fall off (corrugated tubes or air hoses from blower fan) or they just fail (cables). Often the various parts of the system do not connect together as well as they did originally, creating gaps. So, by the time a bus reached even 25 years old, many drivers would not get warm air when they manipulate the levers. Personally, the best I ever got was semi-warm oily-smelling damp air drifting thru the vent with zero urgency. Ultimately, my defroster was a squeegee and a towel I kept between the front seats. When it was cold, I would also keep an ice scraper.

There are many posts and threads about how to restore or improve these systems. The best advice is to start at the back and work your way forward, making sure everything is the way it is intended. Replace the seals, adjust the cables, lubricate the moving parts, etc.

Add-on Blowers

Atwood bilge blower

Years ago, I read a piece suggesting the addition of a 12V bilge blower to the mix of parts. The idea was that if you boosted the CFM, with a fan in the middle that you would get better performance. I found that the bilge blower just increased the rate at which the damp semi-warm oily smelling air appeared at my windshield, ultimately increasing the fog, rather than reducing it. At it's peak, I was able to reduce the damp (by letting the engine get super warm), but there was no way to prevent a flash-fog while driving in the rain and hitting a puddle. Also, no matter how long I ran the engine, once it was cold enough for ice to form, the bus could never get warm enough to keep ice from forming on the inside of the windshield. Now, this could in part be because of door and window seals, but even sitting still, with the bilge blower running with a hot engine the best I could do was hold the ice at bay.

So, I added a "parking heater". No, not like the one I just installed (here). This was a super small electric-coil based home space heater that I left plugged into the AC outlet inside the bus, under the rock-n-roll bed. When I was parked at home, I would run an extension cord under the garage door and plug it into the bus. An hour before I had to drive somewhere, I'd plug in the garage-end and pre-warm the bus. This worked for the morning drive to the mass transit parking lot, but the drive home was still quite cold. Icy windscreen at worst, foggy (queue squeegee/towel combo) most of the non-Summer months.

To help remedy the cold windshield, I got one of those accessory-plug fan things like in the picture here. For the drive home from the transit lot, I would point that thing at the windshield right in front of me. If I stayed at or below 25mph, I could keep a small circle in the center of the windshield clear enough for me to take the backroads home without having to resort to wiping the windshield with a towel. Needless to say, this was not exactly safe nor workable for the long term especially since I had to drive with one hand holding the thing, moving it around to make a big enough circle to see through.

First Defrost with TDI
When I did the TDI conversion, I thought "well, I'm finally gonna have some heat". 10 years later, my first defroster attempt was okay, but it still lacked. When my ignition melted a couple of years ago (See 4Peaks 2018 - Road Report), I thought maybe the fan set up was part of the problem so I ripped the electrical part out. Still, for perspective, it is worth describing what it was.

I bought a used Vanagon rear heater locally in Portland for, like, $20. I set it on the driver-side auxiliary battery tray (left side) and added lengths of 5/8" hose from the heater to the appropriate in/outlets on the TDI. I fab'd a register that fit onto the front of the heater that routed air into a 3" diameter insulated air hose (from McMaster-Carr) which then ran up over the driver axle and up to the front of the bus along the driver-side of the radiator. Just in front of the radiator, I connected it to the original air system. I took the original Vanagon rear-heater fan control and popped it into the dash. I was able to get reasonable heat, but rainy weather continued to be an instant-fog issue. And, the air source was less than a meter from the exhaust pipe, so, when we were sitting still at a traffic light, we would get a nice lung-full of diesel exhaust unless I remembered to turn off the fans when we were decelerating. Considering how it was with the air-cooled engine, this was still leaps ahead. From oily, semi-warm drifting air to warm diesel-exhaust moving with purpose, it was a definite improvement. Now, that the cooling issues have been solved, I can focus on restoring, or rather, improving this system.

That was a lot of context, and not hardly any content. I know. So, I'll spill my plan today, and then next time I'll start on the work. I am going to move the Vanagon rear heater from the auxiliary battery tray under the bus just in front of the radiator. I will route the air through a different custom register into the old air system. Coolant will be plumbed, electrical will be run and eventually a cable to control the coolant flow will be added. I hope. Maybe I'll figure out a way to source intake air so it's not all exhausty nor damp. Big plans. As always, I'm sure I'll have lots of errors and discoveries along the way. I'll do my best to document it as I go.

That's it for today. Thanks, as always for following along--

TDI Fighting Frost

Another departure from the TDI retrospective posts, today's post covers my efforts to install a FrostHeater into the new-to-us 2004 TDI JettaWagon. I discovered that this is a later-year model, so it does not have the ALH engine, rather the BEW. Neat. But, that's a different story.

Why a FrostHeater?
Our weather turned especially cold in September and never really recovered, here in the Pacific Northwest. While the rest of the country appeared to enjoy nice warmer weather (as evidenced by the short sleeves at the Major League Baseball playoff games), we were breaking out our hats and gloves. After scraping ice multiple days, I decided something that got the engine warmer faster would be a good idea, both for the car's engine as well as it's inhabitants.

http://www.frostheater.com/

I looked for and found the FrostHeater, courtesy of the TDIClub. Everyone loves these things, and while they are more expensive than many others, they are 100% USA made and they do exactly what you would expect: the coolant is heated so the engine is warm when you try to start it. So simple. No weird hot-patch glued to the oil pan, creating a small area of intense heat, and not really helping the engine warm up. There were tales of those things falling off, too, so mid-winter you are suddenly without it. Not good. It's hard enough to work on the car outside when the weather is kinda crummy; full-on winter is beyond-the-pale unpleasant.

More Sadism
I brushed up against the sadistic nature of the German auto-engineers when I did the head removal on T's Audi A4, Nemo (See Sadist Engineering). That was nothing compared to what they set up when they did the hoses behind the radiator in the TDI. On the driver side, we have the oil:coolant exchanger where the oil is cooled or warmed by the coolant. This is actually a really great idea, but the way it was implemented puts your hands behind the fan housing, if you want to mess with those hoses. At some point, you will need to replace them. In my case, I was removing the hose that runs from the bottom of the exchanger to the upper radiator hose. The rear of the fan housing, at least in my case, is hard and sharp-edged. By the time I was finished, my hands looked like I had spent the day baling hay: covered with little cuts (20 or more of varying lengths and depths on each arm/hand) and pink from knuckles to elbows. Note to the reader: get a set of hose spring clamp pliers like those shown in the picture here. The skin on your arms, and potentially many hours of suffering, will be saved.

Lower Hose
Again, I encourage you to get a set of hose spring clamp pliers. I have a set now, and will actually enjoy clowning with these clamps next time. Start by removing the under-engine pan. Then, put a catch-pan below the oil:coolant exchanger and remove the lower hose from it. Allow the coolant to drain. Once you're fairly sure you are not going to get coolant dripping on you, start positioning the heater unit. On this engine block (BEW, remember?), there are 2 holes which could hold the heater. You want the one that is closer to the passenger side, but not yet. First, route the hoses. The lower hose runs parallel to the bottom of the engine block and loops up and around to the lower fitting on the oil:coolant exchanger. I suggest attaching it entirely, with a hose clamp. It is easier to thread the bolt from the heater bracket into the hole in the block if the hose is partly helping you hold it in place. Even then, this is not easy unless you have abnormally long, thin fingers.

Heater Unit

Frostheater unit

Before you start with the bolt, shoot the hole with some brake cleaner and mop it out with a rag or paper towel. If the threads aren't clean, this only gets harder. Anyway, you are on your back, holding the unit up with one hand while slipping your fingers between the bracket and the block. With your finger tips, you will need to wiggle on the bolt, lightly turning it until the threads set. I found the bolt would just bite into the threads before it was too hard to turn with my fingertips. The tight space makes it impossible to gain purchase with more of your fingers. With a 17mm wrench (socket won't fit), tighten it down being careful not to cross-thread the hole.

Upper Hose
In the instructions, the FrostHeater folks indicate that you should route the upper hose before you attach the heater unit. Yes, it could be helpful to do it first. I routed and re-routed this hose many times (both before and after the heater was bolted on), mostly because the directions and pictures were not very useful for this part. The hose runs around the oil filter housing from below. The directions indicate that the hose runs between the AC hose and the housing. While that's correct, they omit the part where it runs around the front to the oil filter housing to the upper radiator hose. The picture in the instructions doesn't show it. Anyway, once you have the hose routed, remove the old hose, and slap that new one on.

Retrospective
The instructions and the web site indicate this is a 45 minute job. It took me 5 hours, which further proves my shop-time math. We test drove it to work the next day to make sure any air bubbles worked their way out, and plugged it in overnight that night. The swift-start and instant-heat from the heater was very welcome. Everything behaved as expected: at start-up, the coolant temperature was at normal operating temp (NOT), and once we started moving, the temp dropped a little bit while the warmed coolant met the cold that was in the radiator. After the coolant blended, the temperature rose back up to NOT quickly, like, by the time we were on the main roads. While this install was a super PITA, we will enjoy this heat for years. Already this autumn we have greatly appreciated how little we have had to scrape ice even though all the other cars in the driveway had icy windows in the mornings. Having heat coming out the vents before we're out of the driveway is really really nice too.

The main take-aways from this are: get a set of those hose clamp pliers, give yourself lots of time, and recognize that the hoses are probably original, so they will be super stubborn to come off. If I ever get to driving Hapy in the winter, I would definitely install one of these. In fact, this install gives me a thought for how I could install the coolant filter I got over the Summer.

That's it for today. Thanks, as always, for following along.

Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It

Whoever said "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" must have owned old VW's. Today's post is all about my getting taught that lesson again. I probably won't learn, though. Fixing stuff on the bus is just too much fun. When the day comes that I don't want to mess with something on it, I'm probably not supposed to own it any more. Anyway, on with today's adventure...

Dang Stanky
In my last post, I mentioned something about the exhaust-y air getting pulled into the heat system. There are a few reasons for that. First, I put the heater unit inside the engine compartment. This made sense at the time because it created very short heater hose runs, minimizing possible air pockets. Second, I'm using a vanagon rear-heat unit which has just a simple open-end into which supply air rushes when the squirrel fan starts spinning. So, with the open-end facing the rear of the bus, and the bus standing still at traffic lights at rush hour, the exhaust that wafts out of the tailpipe is only a couple feet away from the fan. Net result: stanky air coming in. Is it broken? Not really.

Retrofit

pic from theSamba

When I first started working with the rear heater, I screwed a 4" vent stub around the open-end. I knew that one day I'd want to supply the air from somewhere other than wherever I put the heater unit. It's probably worth noting that the coolant supply and return lines for the vanagon rear heater unit stick out directly in front of the open-end. This wasn't a problem for the vent stub, but attaching anything else would require some rough stuff.

Rough Stuff
I had to go to Home Depot to figure out the thread size and pitch of the caliper bolts for the Jetta. Home Depot has one of those handy boards in the fastener section where you can take a mystery bolt and just keep trying different mounted nuts and figure out what its thread size and pitch are. Of course, this assumes the bolt isn't so trashed that it won't thread anymore... like mine was. Anyway, While I was at the Home Deopt, I got the great idea of getting some 4" drier vent to connect to the heater in the bus so I could get some fresh air up in the cabin.

Idea: Great.
Timing: Crap.

I got home with some flexible ducting and set up at the back end of the bus. I looked at the vent stub and the coolant lines and figured I could simply remove the top line, remove the valve, get the ducting on and install everything back in reverse. This sounded great, but the application didn't go so hot. The ducting needed to get beat up pretty badly to accommodate the coolant lines, the valve and the assembly tools.

Standing in Puddles

In the end, the supply air is much better, but the re-assembly left me with a leak. A bad one. The leak started out with a drip, and after about 20 minutes of driving it had evolved into a steady stream.

The drive home from work became a harrowing nightmare: defroster not only didn't defrost, it was actively fogging the windscreen. Did I mention the rain or how Portland drivers have their drive-stupid switches activated by precipitation? Now, add in a leak that's so bad, I needed to add water every 20 blocks. I stopped 4 times on my way home in rush hour traffic in the rain to add coolant. So sketch. My nerves were shot, but the bus was safely home without over-heating nor getting in a wreck. I don't drink very much nor terribly often, but I had a whisky rocks when I got home.

So, I'm down two cars at this point and leveraging Portland's mass transit system (TriMet) to get to work and back. Today, we'll get Flash's calipers fixed. After that, Hapy will move into the garage and I'll start on his heat system. Next time I decide I'm going to mess with something that isn't broken, I'll wait until I don't have another car on jack stands. Jeez.