MGB - Brake Booster Replacement

In my last post about Oliver, the 1978 MGB, I mentioned that the brake booster was the cause of a vacuum leak in the engine. This vacuum leak was causing cylinder #1 to run very lean compared to the others. Fortunately, Oliver has not seen much road time, so the engine should be fine. Regardless, today, I cover the fun of removing and then installing a replacement brake booster.

I would like to note that the body work on Zed came to a full stop when the Oregon weather predictably shifted back to cold-wet. For those who don't live here, we experience a wonderful donut-hole of beautiful weather in April/May smack in the middle of the cold-wet. The cold-wet returns for the month of June, usually lasting until Independence Day. So, I entertained myself with other projects, like this, while we waited for the weather to change back. After yesterday's high temps, I suspect the cold-wet is over until October.

Booster in an MGB

We start with where the booster lives in the small engine compartment of the MGB. The brake master cylinder, the clutch master cylinder and the brake booster all live together, attached to one another through the "pedal box": a rectangular steel box just in front of the firewall on the driver side. Closest to the rear is the clutch master cylinder. It is bolted to the back of the box with a lever extending into the box and attaching to the clutch pedal with a pin that is held in with a cotter pin. Attached to the front of the pedal box is the brake booster, with 4 1/2" nuts. This has a lever passing rearward, attaching to the brake pedal with a similar pin-with-a-pin design. To the front of the booster, the master cylinder is attached (2 nuts either 7/16" or 1/2"). Into the master cylinder a rod is passed from the brake booster.

You can imagine the brake action then: pedal is depressed which leverages against the clevis pin to press the lever into the brake booster. The brake booster converts some engine vacuum into more braking force which is then applied through the rod to the master cylinder.

Booster OUT OF an MGB

booster out

The Bentley manual has a step-by-step instruction for removing the brake booster, but I found the instructions to fall down. It started with removing the cover on the pedal box. I agree with that. It then described removing the clips for the brake lines leading to the master cylinder within the engine compartment. I agree with that. Then, it instructed to remove the bolts holding the brake master cylinder to the front of the booster. I also agree with that. At this point, the brake master cylinder can be slid forward off the booster-rod. By doing it this way, no air is introduced into the brake system. I likey.

Then, the instructions said to remove the cotter pin holding the clevis pin for the brake pedal to the leaver on the brake booster. This is not possible for anyone with adult male (and probably female) fingers for width and no one with child fingers for how deep you need to go. The gap between the side of the box and the partition which runs front-to-rear is not wide enough for fingers. I tried long needle nose pliers, but I concluded that even if I got the cotter pin free, and got the clevis pin off, I would not be able to re-install this way. So, I started my own path from here.

My plan was to remove the pedal box with the brake booster still attached and remove the booster from the pedal on my bench. Unlike the brake cotter pin, the partition is much wider on the clutch side, so my average-thickness fingers were able to remove both the cotter and clevis pins without too much difficulty. So, with the pedal disconnected, we remove the clutch master cylinder from the box by removing the 2 bolt/nut combinations that attach it from the rear.  Once removed, the clutch master  cylinder can be pushed rearwards out of the way. Next, we focus on the pedal pox. There are 2 bolts from the top, along the outer edge of the box nearest the centerline of the car. There are 3 bolts from inside the driver footwell going up. Last, there are 2 bolts from behind the dash running forward. Once all 7 bolts are out, the box is only held in place by gravity and the seal. Some light upward pressure on the brake booster and the unit pops free. Getting the unit out of the car took some wrestling, but I think this was more difficult because I could not see where the pedals were dangling. I found that by rotating the unit 90* clockwise helped the pedals to make it through the hole. had I read my old post about removing the pedal box (See MGB - Master Cylinders (Part 1)) or the post about the install afterwards (See MGB - Master Cylinders (Part 3)), I would have known to loosen the bolt fastening the clutch pedal so it dangled a little bit more. This would have made the removal much less of a muscle effort.

pedal box upside down on
workbench with old booster

Once the pedal box was out, it was a simple matter to remove the cotter pin and clevis pin between the brake pedal and the brake booster.... from the underside. I removed the remaining nuts on the brake booster, and started the install by performing the steps in the opposite order: attach the brake booster to the front of the pedal box. Thread the clevis pin through the lever and pedal, minding to include the washer before re-inserting the cotter pin.

Booster Back In MGB

With the unit in the same relative state of assembly as it was in when it was removed, I returned to Oliver to install it. I approached the install in the same manner as it was removed: rotated 90* so the booster was pointing across the engine. The pedals didn't fit, but with some rotating of the box and squeezing the pedals together, I could get them to fall through. Then, I wiggled and rotated the box, checking for cables wires and tubes from getting underneath until it settled in place. I decided that I would do the hardest first, so I did the clutch pedal/master first. I bolted the clutch master cylinder to the rear, after wiggling it around to fit, setting the lever alongside the clutch pedal. Then, I attached the pedal with the clevis pin and cotter pin. I found there was more play that I expected at this joint point, and concluded that I got the clevis pins backwards between the brake and clutch. Food for thought if you are doing this: the longer clevis pin is for the brake.

new booster in

With the clutch master cylinder tied in, I added the brake master cylinder to the front. This is much easier to get to. Once fitted, I started fitting the pedal box to the body. Because of the brake and clutch hard-lines, the pedal box is reluctant to move. I found that putting the 2 bolts through from the dash forward into the rear-most part of the pedal box allowed me to move the box into position. Once the bolt holes along the inside edge (2 of them, one 1/2" one 7/16") aligned, I set those 2 through. Last, I got back on my back inside the driver footwell and sent the last 3 7/16" bolts through the outer edge of the pedal box.

Brake Booster Hose

With the new booster on the pedal box and the pedal box in the car, all that remained was connecting the vacuum hose. I had oriented the booster upside down from the original so the vacuum nipple is on top, rather than below. I did this because of the significant heat source below the booster (exhaust) that is less present above. Also, the hose is much shorter and straighter from intake manifold bung to brake booster nipple. Wanting to avoid any possible issues with the original one-way valve on the intake manifold, I replaced it as well.

Re-Tune and Jetting

Because the old booster was creating a vacuum problem, I re-did the ColorTune tuning steps. Similar to the first time, I tuned using cylinders 1 and 3 but achieved a nice blue in both banks this time. I did swap out the idle jets (50F9 jets), but in order to find blue, I had the idle mixture screws further out than 2 full turns. I will drive Oliver around a little bit, but I think I may need to go up to 55F9 jets if the instructions in the SK Racing manual are to be followed. I noticed that the SK Racing product page describes the "pilot jet" in the carb set-ups they are selling today as 55. Assuming this is the idle fuel size, that's more support for trying 55F9 idle jets.

Since these SK Racing carbs are so similar to the side-draft Weber, here's another tuning link I found specifically for Weber. Notice how that article indicates the starting spot for the idle mixture screw is 2.5 turns out? That is about where mine are now. Curious. One last link, again on the much more plentiful Weber DCOE, but this time about some recommended jet sizes. It recommends the 50F9 idle jets for a late B like I just put in, so honestly, at this point, it will come down to a road test.

under the jet cover plate

Swapping out jets in this carb is seriously one of the easiest things I think I have ever done on a car. There is a cover plate on the top of the carb which is held in place with a slotted bolt. Once the cover is removed, the 4 jets (one idle per side and one main per side) are held in with slotted jet holders. The idle jets are the ones further from the engine / closer to the air filter. The holder threads out, and the jet is held in the holder basically with friction. The old jet slides out, the new jet pops in and you thread everything back together again.

The engine tune did not meaningfully change after the re-jet, so I concluded that the air-fuel mixture from the old jet was virtually the same. So either I removed a pair of 50F9 jets only to put in new ones or the old ones were a similar enough combination that they provided the same air-fuel at idle. At least I know what they are now.

All that is left is a drive... but wait! I didn't hook up the brake light switch. Well, I did, and after a few days of head-scratching trying to get the lights to illuminate, I realized that I had plugged it in wrong. The source 12V arrives in a dual plug, and the signal to the brakes departs through a single plug. I had thought the single plug was from the old carb-preheater, so I had failed to send either side of the switch to the brakes. Instead, I simply wired both sides of the switch to the 12V supply. Hahaha. Simple fix. Once the cars were shuffled so Oliver could get out past the herd, I did a longer test-loop. It did not take long to get the engine to normal operating temperature and he ran great. There was a slight stumble (bog) from dead stop, indicating that he was still a little lean. So, once back in the garage, I turned the idle screws about 1/8 a turn more rich. When I rev'd him from idle, I could not note a bog so I figure he is fairly close to tuned now. More road testing will confirm, and I expect I will fiddle with these screws as weather and altitude factor.

Thanks, as always, for following along-

Thinking Big from Thinking Small

It's been a quiet month , postings-wise, but busy out in the world.  Work for both me and Boo has been quite heavy.  So, I've found myself doing much more of the usual domestic stuff while her seemingly endless days of long hours continue.  Additionally, I recently endured another round of legal fun with my ex-, so I have had lots of time force-focused on what I'd call small-ball.  Get through the day stuff.  It helped me recognize that by spending so much time in the deep detail, you really can't get out above it to see the larger picture without some effort.  Today's musings are along those lines.

Small Ball
What is thinking small?  I think that's perhaps the most important question followed by "how do you recognize when you're blocked in by it?"  Thinking small comes in all shapes.  I've had it happen when I'm working on a very fine point on the bus, like fixing the coolant leak.  While that thing plagued me, I couldn't get out of it enough to see the bigger project and plan things out.  As a result, after I fixed the leak I languished for a few weeks trying to figure out what was next.  The past 3 weeks, I've been focused on personal budgets, domestics, day-to-day work and the upcoming legal event.  Each of these presented the opportunity to think both big and small, but the pressure and fatigue had me down in the weeds.  My focus was picking up dishes or running a load of laundry.  Really small stuff.

Spotting It
How do you know you're thinking small?  Consider the time horizon of whatever you're focusing on.  Does it vary?  Or, have you rutted into a fixed and shorter time period?  Consider the scope of the issues you're thinking about.  Are the different things varied in size?  Or, are they all somewhat the same size?  The less the time horizon and scope vary, the more you'll find yourself in a shrinking space.  Without recognizing it and making an adjustment, you'll only be thinking small.  Bigger plans won't come to you inspired.  Instead, you'll be deep focusing on tiny details.  While going deep into details sometimes necessary, being there all the time traps you from greater ideas.

Changing It
Sometimes, the event you're high-centering on has a fixed point-in-time, like my legal hearing.  Once it passes, the Small Ball passes with it.  Other times, the thing you're focused on has to complete before your mind can let it go.  That was the case with my coolant leak problem.  But, can you force yourself out of the deep?  Yes, you can; there are lots of ways.  My favorite is going to a travel website and pretend to plan a trip a few weeks or months out or trolling JamBase for a concert a few weeks out.  By looking that far ahead, you trigger yourself to force your mind into a different time horizon.  Spend at least 15 minutes in this different time horizon.

It was this kind of thinking that got the TDI-into-a-bus project started in the first place.  I had spent so much time deep into the effort of getting my center-mount Weber carb to operate well at or below dew-point that I couldn't see the rest of the bus project.  I poked around for different power ideas, read some bulletin boards, and started to get my mind out of the deep detail.  Then, I totally switched it up and did a bunch of research on cob housing, and that flipped the switch.  I needed to poke around for different power answers first: force the mind to change the scope horizon.  Then, break free of the small with a completely different exploration at a high level, like cheap DIY housing with available-on-premises materials.

Bigger
While I needed a day to emotionally recover from the hearing, I spent part of the next day researching heating solutions on the bus.  Just like that, I'm able to think big again.  Now, I'm asking myself what could camping season look like next summer?  If I can get a diesel heater integrated into the bus, could camping season start in April?  or even earlier?  What would the interior look like if I put a soft headliner in?  What if all of the seats were covered with the same fabric?  What about the exterior paint?  For some, this is still thinking small, and I totally get that.  For having started so deep, projecting work out beyond the next couple of days... thinking about things that could take a few weeks is a big step.

That's about it for today.  I'll keep stretching to consider bigger targets.  Maybe I'll resurrect that idea about a mountain cabin.  That was often a very effective tool to pull me back out of the weeds and consider life and my place in the world differently.  Thanks for following along, and now that I'm out of the depths, I might have something to post about again before the month is up.

Rack 'em, Snow Bum

Sure, I know its August.  Yep, most folks are taking vacations or at the least thinking about the sweltering heat.  Even here in usually-temperate Oregon, the humidity has been over 65% (which is downright humid for these parts in August).  Sweaty.  It reminds me of my old lawn-mowing days in upstate New York with 80%+ humidity, 80*+ temps.  To combat the weight of the dog-day heat, I think cool thoughts.  T and I will talk about the drop into the bowl on the Thunder run at Timberline or Ski Bowl's Lower Surprise trail.  It's funny how talking about losing an edge and cartwheeling downhill in deep powder can cool you off.  I spent yesterday afternoon in my 90* garage building a ski/board rack for the bus.  I'll detail that today.  Stay cool my friends.  2013-2014 Fusion season passes go on sale in less than 3 weeks (Sept 3rd!).

Starting with What?

thinking about it

The bus was a 1972 Westy when I first bought it.  It ran a 1700CC air-cooled non-original engine with a Weber 32/36 Progressive carb, 009 dizzy and a worthless heat-exchanger exhaust (65HP, 18mpg @best).  It had the original 1972 Westvalia interior and canvas bellowed pop-top.  Today, it runs a 1.9L TDI from a 1998 New Beetle (90+HP, 30mpg).  Inside, it has the rock-n-roll bed, rear closet and refer cabinet from a '79 Westy plus a middle row seat from a Vanagon.  Up top, it has a 1972 Riviera (straight up) poptop and bed.  That may sound crowded inside, and it can be.  Since I've been working on the engine, I have had the rear closet (left side with a front-facing door and cubicles at the rear) out of the bus and sitting in the garage.  This leaves the engine electronics, which sit in the spare wheel well, exposed.  I have a solution for that, but that's for another day.  Anyway, I started looking at the 14" gap between the left side wall and the middle row / rear seat, thinking.... "couldn't we put our ski stuff there?"....

Think, Measure, Think

aligning the rails

I started simply by setting a shoe box on top of the refer cabinet and putting my snowboard on top.  Surely I could make something work there.  I grabbed a set of skis and held them above.  "Yep, I should be able to make 3 racks, each holding either 2 boards or 2 sets of ski's," I thought.  The racks need to be far enough apart so snowboard bindings fit between them, but close enough together so our youngest ski's fit.  That last part proved too much, but he needs new planks anyway, so it should all work out.  Holding the ski's in the air, I made pencil marks on the wall to give me a sense as to where the rails should sit.
I wanted the rack to have some give, so I chose to connect the rails to the side supports with hinges rather than angle braces.  On the other end, I thumb-screwed eye-hooks so we could pull one-to-all of the racks upwards, suspended from another eye-hook in the ceiling by a length of chain.  I haven't completed that part yet.  Last, the equipment needs to stay put.  To address that, I replaced one hinge wood-screw on each rail with a eye-hook bolt run through to the bottom.  On each rail, a 12" bungee is attached from hinge eye-hook to rail-end eye-hook.  I am waiting for the arrival of some bath-tub tread material that I will apply to the rails to make it complete.

parts list

Material List
2 6' lengths of 1x3 cedar for the side supports and rails.
3 packs of 2" utility hinges (2 in each pack)
3 packs of #8-32 x 1-5/8" eye-bolts (2 in each pack)
3 packs of #208 Screw Eyes (2 in each pack) - for rail ends
1 pack of #206 Screw Eyes (2 in pack) - for ceiling
1 8-pack of mini bungee's
some #10 washers

Cuts and Drills
I started with a clean-up cuts on the ends of the cedar.  Lumber yards don't make perfect square cuts, so this is always a good idea.  I cut 2 24" long pieces for the supports and 6 12" long pieces for the rails.  I set one of the supports against the sidewall to consider rail placement.  To make it simple, I pressed the support against the headliner support.  I transferred the pencil marks on the wall to the support. Recognizing that we need 9" between each rail (our tallest binding was 4-1/2"), I lined up the rails 9" apart, adjusting the pencil marks.  Once I had a plan, I set the support back against the wall, held the rails up to see how it would feel.  Then, I pre-drilled the holes for the hinges (making one on each rail large enough for the eye-bolt) and assembled.  I also pre-drilled holes at the top and bottom for wall-mounting.

Installation

testing installation

Once the rack was put together, I wanted to see it in-place.  I discovered that the bottom rail was so low that I had to remove the eye-bolt so the hinge would open enough for me to access the mounting holes.  Hmm.. opportunity for model improvement.. I pre-drilled one hole in the wall and mounted the rack with a 1" sheet metal screw.  This held the rack in place so I could pre-drill the remaining holes without the rack slipping.
A test installation wouldn't be complete without filling it with snow equipment.  I put 2 boards (mine and T's) on the bottom rack, 2 sets of ski's (K's and C's) and Boo's set on the top rack.  K2 gets new-to-us ski's this year, so I left his off.  With the bungee's, the equipment sits well.  I will apply bathtub treads to help hold things in place, but it looks like the passengers will be comfortable and safe, and the equipment a-fixed.

That's it for today.  I still have some clean-up to do, but in just 4 hours this went from concept to installed.  We may use the racks as garage wall-mounts too.  Each one attaches with 4 screws.  Neat.  More next time, and thanks for following along-

AirCooled Aftermarket Axis of Evil

Yesterday's posting about the Weber Progressive Carb in the Wintertime reminded me of my AirCooled Aftermarket Axis of Evil. What is this Axis of Evil? Well, its not Korea, Iran and Iraq. It is a collection of modifications performed on aircooled vehicles that are all done together for some reason. It seems like there are 3 different things that all get changed around the same time by folks that mean well, but don't realize they're doing their air-cooled VW a disservice. Maybe they got misled by some flashy advertisement. Maybe they were talked into it by a mechanic that "used to race" so "he knew what he was doing". Regardless, if you find one of these aftermarket modifications, the odds are very good that the other 2 have been made as well. Bear in mind, if the VW engineers could have left off a bolt, they would have saved the company a big ol' pile o' cash after producing millions of these engines.
I'll spend my next 3 posts on each of the different AirCooled Aftermarket Axil of Evil modifications. After yesterday's post about the Weber 32/36 progressive, we'll logically start there. Its not the worst of the Axis of Evil, but its not part of the Coalition of the Willing either.

Evil Aftermarket Modification #1: Weber Progressive 32/36 Carb.
I know fellow bus drivers that swear by these carbs. Usually it comes up in a conversation about why they only drive their bus in the Summertime. "Busses can't be used all year 'round," they say. "They don't like the cold." Ahh yes... good old balmy Germany... that's where my bus wants to drive. That's crazy talk. If you don't like driving your bus in the cold because it doesn't have heat, say so, and I'll happily help you fix it. Your bus likes the cold fine. Your centermount progressive carb doesn't. It really isn't the carb's fault, though, its the fault of the long intake that the carb sits on. After the fuel and air mix together, it travels down 15" or more of pipe to the intake port on your head. That pipe is out there in the elements, not heated by anything, so the fuel mixture gets all dorked up and by the time it hits the combustion chamber it doesn't burn right. This carb was designed to sit right on top of the Pinto engine, getting warmed by the engine block. No such luck on theVW, especially the pancake motor in 1972-1983 bus/vans.

How do I recognize this evil?
When you pop the rear engine door and look inside, there will be a silver squarish thing sitting right in the middle of everything. If it is exactly as it comes out of the box, it will have a chrome aircleaner on it. It is sitting on long silver tubes that look like electical conduit. "Aw.. but it looks so pretty," you say. Yeah, pretty, but grossly inefficient when the air temperature drops below 70F or gets near the dew point. Here in the Pacific NorthWest, its a rare day when its not near the dew point except in the Summer..... which, oddly enough, is when the local Weber drivers think is the only time to drive a bus. Coincidence? No, they've been confused by the evil-doers.

How do I eradicate the evil-doer?
There are a few options for reducing the negatives of the Weber (containment of the evil-doer), or you could toss it completely for the correct induction system for your make/model/year.
Option 1: you could add insult to injury by trying the GM Cavalier trick. The Cavalier had a similar problem with its induction system, so GM added a heated gasket to warm the system. Whaddaya know, it fits between a Weber and that ridiculous electrical conduit intake. I have not personally done this, but I have heard that this does actually work, but you need some kind of thermal sensor to tell it to turn itself off. Sounded dangerous and little like like nonscience, so I tried...
Option 2: find a source of warm air and route it into the aircleaner. This helps the carb work better down to the mid 40F's, and drivable into the mid 30F's. I went into more detail in yesterday's post about this. The best solution is replacing the whole thing with what was removed in the first place - either dual carbs or fuel injection. These are more expensive options, but doing it right isn't usually the less expensive way in the short term. It is usually the less expensive way in the long term, though.

Dual carbs and fuel injection are not harder to dial-in than the Weber, nor are they harder to routinely maintain. What's hard is finding what's wrong with the used parts you have. Run a Weber for 30 years, and see if you don't have a similar "what's wrong with it" head-scratching session. The Dual carbs and fuel injection that came with the bus have 30 years of millions of owners experience to draw on. Removing the evil-doer in this case is easy; its the establishment of a stable system after the fact that's the challenge. That's usually because you're doing the work with the parts you have, not the parts you wish you could have. Hmm.. that sounded eerily familiar.....

Next time... Evil Aftermarket Modification #2

Cold Weather and the Dreaded Weber

The Pacific NorthWest has been experiencing its last throes of Winter these last few weeks. Ever since Puxatawney Phil didn't see his shadow, it seems like the weather gods have decided to prove him wrong: there will be more winter. Here in the Pacific NorthWest, we've had "wintery mix" which means rain, freezing rain, sleet, hail and snow shifting from one to the other throughout the day. Did I mention gusting wind? Oi. It makes driving a little more exciting, but traffic a real bear.

When the air gets this cold, it takes a long time for Hapy to warm up. When I first bought Hapy, he was missing a number of pieces that helped to keep him warm - making his warmup never complete in winter. I'll go into those part identification and installation adventures another day. Even after finding and installing all those parts, though, the non-stock Weber Progressive 32/36 carburator would not perform well in the cold. If the air temp fell below 50F degrees, he would buck and toss like when I first learned how to drive a clutch. If you're having the same experience, I'd suggest you try this:

First, find a snorkelled air cleaner that fits the top of the Weber 32/36. I bought a "Sprint" air cleaner from Pierce Manifolds for $15. This fits perfectly on top, and bolts down with the filister bolts you use on the chrome air cleaner the Weber came with. This will allow you to control warm and cold air entering the carb.
But where does the warm air come from? Look at the right side of the firewall when looking in through the access hatch (top or rear). Is there a steel elbow that points up that's maybe 2 inches across? No? Is there a square hole with 2 bolt holes on either side of it? Yes? Ok, you're missing 2 key pieces of tin for getting the warm air into your carb. Now, if you have a fuel injection (FI) firewall, you may not have either of these items, so you may have more tin to replace. Honestly, if you have to go that far, you may want to consider returning to FI. Anyway, the pieces are on this diagram, numbers 42 and 43. Number 42 is the elbow on the inside of the firewall and #43 is a longer elbow that bends around the fuel pump (if you have a mechanical fuel pump) and to the firewall. I got these 2 pieces from my man Ken at theBusCo.
Getting these pieces to align without dropping the engine is a challenge, especially if you have a mechanical fuel pump, as the longer elbow needs to fit between the fuel pump and some of the engine tin. You do have a hole in the tin where the long elbow comes down, right? No? Ok, you have newer tin so you can either buy a "new" piece or cut your old one. I cut mine and I now regret it as I have to plug the hole to put FI back on. All of the pieces do fit together, and it can be done by yourself, but its much easier if you can get a friend or a willing child to hold the small elbow in place as you thread the filister bolt through and tighten it down. When its raining, and you're working in your driveway (as I was), you really appreciate hot tea afterwards... and a long shower.
After the tin is in place, and the snorkel is attached, you've finished the hard part. You need a flexible air hose to connect the small elbow near the firewall to the lower part of the snorkel. I got a standard sized one at the local GI Joes. Route the air hose under the long intake runners so its out of the way and any residual heat will warm the runners a little.

To make use of the new equipment, lift the flapper on the snorkel all the way. This will bring just the warmed air up into the carb. In Summer, lower and click-shut the flapper so only cool air enters the carb. This is important as in the Summer using only warm air can overheat your engine. Also, you get better power with cold air entering the carb, so you may want to play with where you set the flapper. You should find that by using the snorkel, you can drive your bus down into the 30F temps before you have the bucking return.

This Winter, especially these last few weeks, I have driven my bus in 35F temps uphill on the interstate. I have had to stay in the right-hand lane, but I've been able to stay on the road. Two years ago, that would not have been possible. If you're having troubles with your Weber and either can't afford to get FI ($250) or don't want the hassle of working on a FI powered engine, you can get the tin, snorkel and the hose for under $50 and a couple hours work. Just try to find a dry place to do the work.