Hapy Runs Again

Picking up where I left off last time, we had Hapy mostly in one piece, needing coolant. His exhaust was still in pieces, rear bumper on the ground and he had not started since June of 2024.

 

Coolant

full moon down the street

There is really no adventure here, but in the interest of being thorough, I topped off Hapy's coolant with some G40. I worked air bubbles out of his system by squeezing hoses, but they won't really fully work themselves free until the engine is running. So, after a couple more top-offs, I called it good and capped the overflow and coolant bottles.

 

Exhaust

The not-my-favorite, too-small-diameter, cheap exhaust installed on this engine all those years ago went back on. This was not my first choice, but I want Hapy running, so I'll circle-back on a new exhaust later. The old one came apart where the piping enters the muffler. I think the cheap muffler failed allowing the section of pipe to which the exhaust "downpipe" (we'll call it that: it's the pipe that leads from the turbo, but it does make it sound awfully grand) was welded to fall out of the muffler body. The weld is a good 4 inches from the end of the pipe which clearly fits inside the muffler body and sets inside an inner pipe within. I regret not taking a picture here; apologies.

 

ShadeTree mechanic'ing

So, I hung the muffler body by the support hook and then set to attaching the downpipe. There is one stud attached to the turbo that the 3-holed flange hangs on. Then, you swing the rest of it into place, square the gasket and send the other bolts (with washers) through. A 13mm spanner is needed for the lower bolt, but the other 2 can be approached with a socket. With the muffler swinging on its mount and the downpipe firmly a-fixed, I set the pipe into the muffler and literally hammered the muffler into the pipe with a rubber mallet. These parts will easily work themselves apart again, if I didn't do something. So, I went full shade-tree, and added a 1" angle bracket, screwed into the muffler and the pipe to hold it together. The picture on the right, here, tells the tale. Not a proud moment but that will all go to the landfill / recycler eventually.

 

Bumper

Feeling confident that Hapy would be a runner again very soon, I installed the rear bumper / tow hitch component. I detailed the original install of the tow hitch in Bus Tow Hitch. Re-install is not nearly as involved. 15mm socket needed. I set the hitch onto the TravisJack and lifted it close to where it would eventually sit and then balanced on the TravisJack while I set bolts. I fingered-on the left (driver) side and then the right (passenger) side, taking care not to drop the unit off the jack and onto me. I discovered that the exhaust pipe leaving the muffler hung in the way, but a solid kick with my boot resolved it without causing any damage to anything. Just needed some sudden blunt force. Once all 6 bolts were finger tight, I set the bumper where I wanted it depth and parallel-to-the rear-wise and torqued them down.

 

Injection Pump Prime

electrical connection cleaner

Any time I let Hapy sit undriven for a while, the injection pump loses prime. I believe this is because of a failing seal, but it's the one that's much harder to get to (and I don't have on-hand). So, I have let that sit to be solved another day. Enter the mighty MityVac. Since I disconnected the large fuel filter for the flywheel replacement, I was unsure if that filter was completely full, so I started with the line which enters the injection pump, moving to the return side of the pump next. This is relatively straightforward: disconnect the fuel line, apply vacuum with the MityVac (using the collection bottle between the pump and the fuel line, of course) until the collection bottle consistently gets fuel. Then, remove the vacuum contraption and reconnect the line. For the return line, I also clamped the return line from the injectors to the pump so I did not lose vacuum through them. Once the pump was full, I cracked the hard lines at the injectors with a 17mm spanner. This last bit of priming needs to be done by turning the ignition and counting to 5. Well, that's how I did it. When I returned to the engine compartment, each of the 4 injectors had some fuel sitting on top where the hard line connected. I snugged them back tight.

 

DeOx-it D5

Before I ran to the cab to give the engine a try, I wanted to make sure all of the plug-in bits were set. So, I went around the top of the engine, disconnecting, shooting-DeOxit D5 into the connectors and clicking them back together. This served 2 functions. First, a simple survey of the top of the engine allowed me to see if I had missed anything. Second, every electrical connection was confirmed a good-click connection and it was cleaned/deoxidized for a better connection. Having done this, and it only taking literally a minute, I intend to include a similar final survey when doing top-side maintenance going forward. Its so easy, and removes many possible variables to failures.

 

And Then It Happened

At this point, I felt that I had done everything I could to set up for a successful first start since June of 2024. I put the trans-axle into neutral turned the key to run and saw the familiar lights. With an inhale, I turned the key to start and after about 3 seconds he fired up. I didn't expect immediate, since fuel still needed to get pushed down into the injectors, but he started well and ran strong, arriving at a comfortable idle almost immediately. I left him run for a while, sitting in my shop in neutral while I checked for leaks and drips. There were none, which was little short of a miracle.

 

I thought about giving him a little test drive, but I have not solved for the electrical cord for the FrostHeater yet. Curious, though, I tried to ease him into gear, but he wouldn't. Knowing that he easily moved in and out of gear when the engine was not running, I concluded that the clutch cable needs adjusting.

Clutch Adjustment

This adjustment took a little bit of effort, but with a thicker spacer where the Bowden tube meets the mount on the transaxle, and another spacer on the adjuster, I was able to get the clutch to engage and disengage properly. The Bowden tube needs a curve in it to reduce clutch chatter, so this was needed regardless. The fact that I needed a spacer on the adjuster tells me that the cable that I replaced.. jeez.. almost 20 years ago... may be stretching. This is often a warning that the cable will fail soon. So, time to order a replacement.

I used a Velcro ties to hold the FrostHeater cable up and out of the way. But, before I wrapped it up, I tried the FrostHeater, and I think it might be broken. I'll have to do some research, but I expected the unit or at least the top hose to warm up to the touch a little bit. I did not notice any warming, so that effort may have been for nothing after all. Again, I will look into it and I may get a replacement unit, but I'll be pretty bummed if it was really only used a couple of times before it got damaged.

Here's a video of him running, probably 3 minutes after his first start in like 18 months.

 

 

 

I noticed that the rear lights were acting all weird, but a different kind of weird than usual after messing with the battery. So, I did not want to risk a drive-about. It seems like every time I touch the battery, the tail lights short-out such that stepping on the brakes completes an unexpected circuit. That's the usual. This time, the reverse lights were lit up and the blinkers were acting all strange, but only the rear. I think I may have done something with the reverse lights, like reversing the plugs when I wired up the switch, but I ran out of daylight before I could get after it. I'll diagnose and attempt to fix it next time. 

Thanks, as always for following along, and I'll post with any test-drive observations, and other improvements as they happen. At this point, I am thrilled that Hapy self-starts and can move around again--

Bus Tow Hitch

Today, I covered the install of a tow hitch onto Hapy, (1972 VW Bus), highlighting some of the unique factors about a 1972 VW bus as well as what is special about Hapy that makes this install particular. I am still working on the injectors and getting Hapy running, so this install kept me busy or should I say distracted from that for the weekend.

Slow Go

test fit

Back when I first got Hapy, and for the handful of years I drove him with his original mystery engine, he could barely get much of anywhere if there was more than just me inside. If we added another adult, a couple of kids, gear, food, etc for a weekend of camping every incline presented a new opportunity for my knuckles to whiten, my back to tighten and passersby to wave with a single finger. At the time, I knew of other bus-drivers who had no such problems. In fact, there was a guy from Canada who built a trailer that looked like a small single-axle version of his bus that he towed behind him as he crisscrossed Canada and the US. He called his bus the Red Tomato; sadly, I cannot find a picture, but his set up was amazing. An engine swap, and some other upgrades later, I'm no longer slowing down traffic, and the idea of a small tow-behind or just maybe using one of those tow-hitch bike racks is appealing. Dare I say a ski/board rack?

One Year Only

Of course, 1972 is a transition year for the VW bus. 1971 was the last year of the old "type1" or upright engine, making 1972 the first year of the pancake engine (in the bus). The rear transom was changed so you could no longer remove the bottom section between the tail lights for engine removal, the tail light housings were made larger, etc. On the front, 1972 was the last year of the "low light" turn signals below the headlights. So, 1972 was already a kind of a frankenbus before I got my hands on it. Arguably, if I had left it (or returned it to) stock, it would be worth more.... to some folks. Bear in mind, Hapy did not have his original engine when I got him, so any return-to-stock would not have been to a numbers-matching bus. Besides, a camperbus should be camped in, not just garaged, trailered and car-showed.

dis-assembly

In 1973, the rear bumper was changed, changing the rear end again. This means that much of the design of the engine-to-frame mount, transom, the bumper mount, etc. was unique to 1972. So, getting a rear hitch to fit was not an off-the-shelf thing. Well, it wasn't until this cat in Virginia started making them as a side job a few years ago, and selling them on TheSamba. The reviews of Jeremy's work has been super-high, and his responsiveness to email has been great. It arrived quickly, wrapped with cardboard to protect it (but not boxed, probably for less expensive shipping) and looks exactly like the pictures. You can see what it looked like in the picture on the right, here. What I didn't realize when I ordered it, the tow hitch ships with 6 super-high-strength M10 x 1.5 bolts for mounting. 

These tow hitches include an integrated bumper support, which supplants the old one. So, one of the one-year-only parts is no longer needed. For those who have purchased a bus which had it's rear bumper removed and subsequently lost, with this hitch, you only need to source a bumper (based on my look-around, WestCoastMetric, JBugs, and BusDepot now offer the 1-year-only bumper). That's easier than finding a one-year-only bumper and pair of one-year-only brackets. And, you get a tow hitch. Win-win!

One Bus Only

As unique as the 1972 VW bus rear-end design is, Hapy is more so. Recall, all those years ago when Hal and I (more Hal than I) designed the engine mount for the TDI engine? Rather than leveraging the triangle of mount holes in the frame rail sides that held the original engine mount "moustache bar", we reused the twin holes further to the rear which hold the bumper brackets. This left the triangle mount holes vacant. The tow hitch also mounts to the bus frame through something other than the triangle of holes. Once the install has completed, the engine mount and the bumper mount will each be supported independently.

I will take this opportunity to underscore that our reuse of the bumper bracket holes has been completely without issue. On surface, one could become concerned with whether the holes were designed to support the weight of a TDI engine. Consider that the bellhousing mount to the frame probably holds most of the weight, and is absolutely capable of holding the engine by itself. I say that because I have removed the rear mount and accidentally removed the support (lowered the jack. Doh!) in the past, and the engine has not budged. Also, the bumper mount needs to be capable of holding not just the bumper off the ground, but occasional additional weight of someone stepping on it. Last, it needs some level of hardiness to absorb energy from a rear-end collision. Regardless, I have never felt this design has not been more than capable of supporting the rear-end of the engine. Again, thanks Hal :)

Install Hitch Hampering

bent ear

After some careful examination of the mount, and of the bus frame, I realized that the tow hitch does not reuse the triangle engine mount, it uses a set of otherwise unused holes in the rear of the frame. This means that for a standard 1972 bus, the install does not involve the engine mounting mechanism at all. Nice work, Jeremy! The holes he targeted sit directly above the holes used by the original bumper brackets.... that we are using for our TDI engine mount. In any other 1972 bus, you could just set to tapping those holes with a M10 x 1.5 tap for the supplied bolts. With Hapy, there is always an extra hitch (pardon the pun): the right-angle brackets that are part of the engine mount hung over the outer edge of the frame by about 1/4", and prevented the hitch from setting all the way. Through the use of a cut-off wheel on my angle-grinder, that extra overhang was trimmed off. When I do the install for realsies, I will hit the bracket with the grinder so the edge is smooth. And, of course, I'll shoot the exposed steel with some black paint.

But then, we still were not quite ready. The tow hitch was tweaked partially during shipping. The 2 supports were slightly bent inwards by a 1/2" total so it would not fit around the rails. I pulled out the 3' sledgehammer and encouraged the hitch supports apart. Had the hitch not had a bent ear for the passenger-side bumper support, it could have taken me longer to realize that the shipper was a little rough with the hitch. I advise you to check the measurements and angles when you get yours. These are built on a jig, so it is not a manufacturing issue.

Preparing for the Tow Hitch

Finally, the fun part. With a floor jack, I put upward pressure on the engine support bar so I could remove the bolts on either side. Supporting the bumper with my toolbox, I dropped the last bolts and lowered the bumper. I slid it out of the way and returned the bolts back through the engine support bar. Once the engine mount was tightened back down, I removed the exhaust. I decided that it would be easier to install the hitch with it out of the way. It was at this point that I cut off the extra meat on the brackets and discovered the rough handling during shipping I mentioned above. I decided that the engine was crazy dirty, and I had gotten enough oily yuck in my fingers (I found and re-connected a breach in the compressed air / turbo pipes) that a degrease was overdue.

crazy cleaner

Product shoutout: Oil Eater. I cannot believe how effective this bio-degradeable, enviro-safe degreaser is. I have found this stuff at the dollar store and BiMart, and when I first bought it, I didn't think much about it as I'd never heard of it. Wow, this stuff cleans oily greasy messes fast. My TDI engine was a black-caked oily mess. I shot it with the OilEater, and hosed it off. To get all the little nooks I did this 3 times. No brushing, no scrubbing: just spray it on and hose it off. The engine is incredibly clean now. You can sort of see in the bottom picture. All that silver used to be black, and all that black used to be, well, black, but caked oily gross black.

At some point, the original bumper brackets, and splash pans need to be removed from your bumper. The picture at the top shows the yardsale that ensues when you do. The hitch has the corresponding holes for re-using your splash pans. I recognize that these pans help hold the front edges of the bumper to the side of the bus, but I am not sure that value offsets the cost of the junk that builds up in those pans. Leaves, pine needles, etc sit there and just encourage rust. Washing or cleaning those pans is not easy either. So, for now, I will be omitting my splash pans, and will eventually form a bracket to go from the side of the bus to the front of the bumper. As I worked the bumper, I noticed that the paint needs to be refreshed and the bolts were all rusty again. Fun in the rain-soaked Pacific NorthWest. Finding stainless steel fasteners to replace the zinc-coated or plain steel took some time, but I found them at BelMetric for about $15US delivered.

Installing The Tow Hitch

tapping last M10 hole

With the bumper and exhaust out of the way, and the engine bay clean, the install of the bumper is relatively straight forward. The 6 holes need to be tapped with a M10 x 1.5 tap. I didn't have any, nor had I ever done anything like that, but the tap and driver cost me about $18US at the corner Ace Hardware. The cutting of the threads was pretty easy too. I just took my time, making sure the tap was lined up well, and then slowly twist the tap in 1/4 turn at a time. I found that the first few threads are the most important and that it was easy to mess them up when I was removing the tap. So, my advice is to take extra care during the last few turns on the way out. It is easy to lose concentration, and then you have to do it again.

Jeremy's (the fabricator's) instructions for the install indicate that you must mount the bumper before installing the hitch. I, of course, did not do that, but it was so I could get a test fit. And, as I mentioned above, my bumper bolts have rust appearing on the bolt heads, so I'm going to replace them. The tow hitch is not balanced, wanting to tip down to the rear. I suspect that once the bumper is added, it will want to drop rearward all the more. Considering that at this point I do NOT have my exhaust installed, I expect the final install will end up another post.

note location relative
to engine mount triangle

I set the driver-side end of the bar under it's install location but on top of my toolbox. I went over to the passenger-side, lifted it into position and finger-threaded the upper rear bolt into the hole a few threads. Then, I switched to the driver-side, threading in both rear bolts, but again only a few threads. I continued to bounce back and forth wiggling the hitch and threading bolts until all of the bolts were threaded in. At this point, I pushed and pulled to get the tow hitch into it's rear-most location and then finger tightened the bolts. Last, I ratcheted them down snug (not torqued) with a 15mm socket.

Bumper On

To complete the test-fit, I set the bumper in-place and threaded the 2 outer, but rear-facing, rusty bolts through the hitch-resident bumper support and set the 13mm washers and nuts on. This gave me an approximate visual for how the finished product will look. Overall, I think it looks great. While I will miss the modesty skirt thing, and I have not yet confirmed that the exhaust will fit without modification, I will definitely appreciate having that hitch for a bike rack, or equipment shelf or for actually towing something small.

That's it for now. I will be cleaning up the bumper and exhaust, probably painting the bumper again and then repeating this install, plus re-installing the exhaust. I'm sure I'll post on it. Thanks, as always, for following along--

Another Tow

In my last post, I lamented a little bit at the end about dropping into a version of limp mode (1200 rpm symptom) and sporadic misses. Today's post covers the start of what I did to resolve it. I split it into two posts because I tend to get wordy.

Muir's Divination

If you haven't read How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive by John Muir, you absolutely should, even if you don't own an old Volksie. His tone and humor can still be felt on some VW boards and the YahooGroup member mail. Somewhere in his book, he writes about the promises we make to our cars of future repairs, if he-she-it just gets us home. Old VW's seem to have a soul, and they respond to those promises (sometimes) with safe passage home. The return trip from 4Peaks was one of those moments. About the time I was re-starting the engine to reset the engine from the 1200 RPM symptom every 50 feet, I promised Hapy that I'd get him fixed before I drove him again. He just needed to get us home. Like a good soldier, Hapy settled down and took us home with little trouble. Since my usual sled (Flash, the TDI Jetta) was still being driven by my 18 year old son while he completed the repair on his car (subaru clutch job), I reneg'd on my promise to Hapy and drove him to work the next day. It was under 3 miles, but it was still breaking the promise. Hapy let me know how he felt when I went to leave work at the end of the day.

Repo-Style Tow

Hapy would start and drop immediately into the 1200 RPM symptom from the first start after work. By the way, I'm not calling it limp mode anymore since "limp mode" is actually a different condition. I was able to get positioned in a parking lot that allowed for a tow truck to get at the bus while also in the shade (90*+ day), and waited for AAA to send the usual flatbed. What arrived instead was what I'd call a repo-truck. It was small and had a relatively non-descript towing rig attached to the rear. As it pulled in, the tow rig looked like a large iron cross jutting up from his rear bumper. When lowered, the cross would abut against whatever tires it could and then latch around from the other side. All told, this truck was able to snatch a car in under a minute. The driver slapped on the safety straps, and magnetic marker lights and we were on our way inside 5 minutes after he arrived.

On the route home, the driver shared that this was his first boost of the day and that he was heading over to the Hillsboro Hops field for opening day next. Apparently, lots of folks park illegally at that park, so he spends a few hours at every game snatching illegal parkers and hauling them a few miles away to impound. Not exactly my definition of a dream job. He was able to drop Hapy in the "fixit spot" at the end of our long driveway, though (see picture).

Un-Rat's Nesting

in process

Before

My friend Justin will probably be the first to agree that the wiring I didn't do when I did the TDI install was long overdue for a cleanup. I did what Agile tells us to do: the very minimum to achieve the desired end state. When conditions indicate that things need to be redone, do it then. Well, with the 1200 RPM symptom and the other codes getting thrown, I think it was time. Or past time. So, circuit by circuit, I removed unnecessary wiring. I started with plugs in the rat's nest that weren't plugged into anything and tracing those wires to their termination at the fuse box, ECU or a junction. Then, I pulled the unneeded plugs and wires from within the engine bay the same way. This required significant unwrapping of cables and subsequent re-wrapping for cleanliness. Last, I dug into the fuse box. This last step could have been my first. By verifying circuits at the fuse against the fuse diagram in the Bentley, I eliminated more wire than I retained. In the process, I discovered a possible root cause: I had one main ground, and it had started to shake loose. By removing so much wire, I was able to reduce how many brown wires connected into that ground as well. The end result looks much better, but the relay frames and the fuse box still need to be attached to the body. And, the 1200 RPM symptom didn't go away. Drat.

I decided that the cause of the 1200 RPM symptom wasn't in the wiring nearest the computer. So, it must be the wiring or the potentiometer at the pedal. In the next post, I'll dig into what I found and how I fixed it.

As always, thanks for following along..

discards

Furthur - the Return

I know its been a while and I apologize for that.  I've been covering a second job at work, so I'm basically working all the time these days.  Fortunately, a replacement has been selected, so I'll be returning to having only one job again soon.  Today, I'll talk about the adventure I had on the drive home.

out the passenger side while waiting

Carabus
We rolled out of the campground earlier than I really expected - around 10.  After 3 days of late nights, music and dancing, I figured we'd sleep in later.  Since the bus doesn't have much in terms of curtains right now, the morning sun got me up pretty early.  So, after quick-charging our cell phones, slugging some coffee and grubbing some cold cereal, Ed (in Belle) and I (in Hapy) headed north through Coburn and onto I-5 North.
With my currently limited top-speed, Ed eventually grew impatient, passed and disappeared through my windscreen.  Since he had a much longer drive over to the Oregon Coast before wheeling home, I totally expected him to split.  It was shortly after we parted ways that things started to get interesting.

Sputtering

out the windscreen while waiting

One advantage to not having a stereo is being able to get very attuned to what your engine sounds like when its running well.  It also gives you very early clues when things are starting to go wrong.  It started with a little sputter.  Like the engine missed or something.  We kept on cruising, but now I was on high alert.  Another sputter... and then another... and then... I could hear the engine starting to die.  So, I popped it out of gear, let the engine fail and rolled slowly below the speed limit, into the breakdown lane and then eventually to a stop.  Fortunately, I found myself in a very wide breakdown area.  I had an idea of what went wrong, so I went around back to confirm.  When I broke camp, I put most of my stuff on the floor in the passenger area rather than the rear deck.  This made engine access easy.

Fuel-less
My initial guess was proven accurate seconds after I opened the engine lid: the clear primary fuel filter I put between the tank and the stock filter was completely dry. 

Hah.  I jumped back into the driver seat and checked my milage, and I should have half a tank.  Curious.  So, I pulled the filler cap and waited for a break in traffic.  When one arrived, I rocked the bus and put my ear to the filler hole: splash-splash.  So... not fuel-less?  So, the tank has foreign matter in it blocking the outlet.  Drat!  Not something I can fix roadside, so AAA gets the call.

Towed Again

tucking him home

AAA was responsive, but I had to wait an hour while a flat-bed truck became available.  It seems I was not the only northbound microbus that got a AAA call.  Funny.  While I waited, I messed around with some of my interior electrical, and got the poptop dome light to work.  Sweet!  Anyway, Dave the driver was very careful and did a great job hoisting my bus onto his truck.  The drive back to Beaqverton was not nearly as climactic as the drive south was.  Between the completely different weather (now cloudy with spitting rain) and hte different means, I was a little down.  Dave was able to arrange his truck such that he was able to perfectly tuck the bus into his sleeping spot in my garage.

So ends the adventure of attending Furthur.  I did take a peek at the clear filter a few days after getting home and it had some fuel in it, further supporting the floaties-in-the-tank theory.  Since the return, I've taken steps to fix this, and I'll post what those steps were next time around.  As always, thanks for following along.

Life Rhythm finding a Beat

It's been an interesting couple of weeks. I've moved, and started getting settled in. I've gone from seeing my boys every couple of days for a few hours at a time to actually having them stay overnight. This new-ish life is starting to take a shape, though I can't tell exactly what shape it is yet. I'll try to be brief on the chronology.

Keys
I got the keys on the 12th, and started moving in the flotsam from my folks place by the car load. I had the boys that evening, so we had a pizza-picnic on the carpet. They tried and approved of the pool. Great start.

Moving Day
The following weekend I moved the big stuff. I scheduled the move weekend without considering work impacts (not wise, but that was the available day). So, while moving things out of the garage, I got a call from work about some kinds of problems. Perfect. I got through the U-Haul rental stuff in record time, and then I was sidelined with a firefight. boo. Fortunately, by the time my helpers arrived, the panic at work had passed and we were back on track. Big thanks to my brothers and my folks for helping out. Before noon, we had the truck loaded and the bus on the tow dolly. 30 minutes of caravan-ing later, we're in an office park across the street from the new place. I dropped the bus there (and the tow-dolly), so we could empty the truck. By 2:30, the truck was empty, and the bus was snuggled into his new shelter. eye-witnesses tell me there was a good 5 inches of clearance above his roof as I backed him in. That gives me the room for bigger rims and the Riviera poptop... maybe.

Life Rhythm finding a Beat
The 14' truck carried a small subset of what's needed to create a home. That's where my sister-in-law jumped in. While I was returning the truck, she and Tim (a friend helping on the move) hit Ross and created an insta-home with dishes and decorations and stuff. Crazy. I was totally floored. We truly are measured by the depths of our relations, not by the content of our bank accounts.

Still, I didn't have the things needed to host my boys, so for the next 2 weeks, I saw very little of them. As much as I wanted to be enjoying the new-space creation, I missed them so terribly, it was very hard to. Work was chaotic, with a major release looming and budget cuts rumored. I was in a very negative emotional space. I pressed forward, though, locating the final items to host the boys, and finally having them for a sleepover this past weekend.

It is hard to describe the emotion of hearing them together in the morning when I got up. I can't tell you what exactly they were talking about, but it doesn't really matter. From the top of the stairs, I could hear quiet voices and giggling.... made my heart leap. It really felt like home. The morning of cereal and hanging out topped a weekend that included C shooting a hat-trick at his lacrosse game and a family get-together (uncles, aunts, cousins, grand-parents) to celebrate T's 13th birthday. Dropping them off was extremely hard, so I worked it out at the gym, like I used to. I'll have them over on Tuesday for the first week-night sleep over. It will be interesting to see how that morning goes. Now that it's started, though, I can make it through those days without them.

Thanks for following along. I don't have the boys this next weekend, so I may start looking at the bus as soon as Saturday. We'll see. Then, you just might hear about that progress again :)

pictures:
top - my helpers taking a break by the truck
upper middle - bus on the dolly
lower middle - bus and car in their new home
bottom - T hanging out (mostly) in the pool