MGB - Side Draft Carb fun

Today, I return to the little British car: our 1978 MGB, Oliver. Oliver has sat unused for too long. I had been having considerable and increasing trouble just getting him to start and run. So, earlier this year, I removed his carburetor for dis-assembly, cleaning and re-assembly. I did the removal and tear down what feels like months ago, and just completed the re-assembly. So, while this post may feel like a couple of consecutive weeks of fun, it's really a little from March, a little from June and a little from last weekend.

Removal and Tear Down

re-assembled

As is the case with most things on a small car, removing parts requires some flexibility not needed for larger cars of this vintage. Still, removing a carb is not complicated, but I encourage you to take pictures. If your life is anything like mine, you may intend to be back to this in a few days, but days can become months really fast. Anyway, remove the air cleaner. Remove the fuel line (pinch it off first and then plug it). Disconnect the throttle and choke cables. Then remove the carb from the intake. With the side-draft weber (DCOE) and this SK Racing/OER carb, it is held to the intake with 4 nuts threaded onto studs emerging from the intake. The DCOE and SKRacing carbs use the same intake, by the way. Once removed, I stuffed rags into the intake to prevent critters from climbing into my engine, closed the hood and re-covered him. I took the carb over to a bench in the back of the little garage attached to the farmhouse.

At the work table, I started with the most obvious things and worked my way inward. First, the inspection cover and top half of the carb was separated from the main body. I removed every slotted bolt and whatever lay beneath, taking pictures as I went. Last from the top were the air correction jets and then I removed the set screws that held the venturi to the main body. The main body was effectively disassembled, so I shifted to the top half, removing the float, the fuel inlet bits and the choke bits. Last, I pulled the little cover or plate that faces the intake when installed. I am sure someone who does this often would have done it faster, but I needed to chronicle it so I could re-assemble later.

Carb Cleaning

remove from car day

I started like most folks probably do: shooting the carb with rattle can carb cleaner and gently scrubbing it with a toothbrush. I focused mostly on the exterior with the brush and let the carb cleaner do it's magic on the little holes without brushing. Satisfied that I got the worst of it, I pulled out a razor blade and removed all of the gasket bits and rubber seals. Then, put together a ultrasonic cleaner soaking tank with solution designed for carbs. I had read online that some folks will use Simple Green or other things, but I figured the correct solution was far less expensive than a replacement carb in the event those advisers were wrong.

The cleaners, well, the one that I got, but from what I read, many of them have a setting to warm up the solution while doing the ultrasonic. From what I read, there was some level of concern about how well they actually maintain temperature and that sometimes they can run the solution too hot. Since the solution is concentrated (read: need to add water), I decided to use boiling water and when poured into a room temperature solution, the overall temperature would be sufficient. I ran the carb body and all of it's pieces in the ultrasonic cleaner for multiple 20 minute cycles. Once I was satisfied that the carb was as clean as it was going to be, I moved it and the parts into a bucket and rinsed them with water. I then set everything out in the sun to dry.

Rebuild Kit

great kit

Unlike a Weber DCOE, the SK Racing/OER carb is not exactly common in the US. It is not generally sold here; it is much more popular in Japan. So, finding a rebuild kit for an obscure, foreign and old (time is relative) car part was time consuming on it's own. I was able to find a single supplier of a kit, a person in Japan with a storefront on eBay (Bprojects Japan). While I have a healthy skepticism of eBay sellers, deals and parts, I really had no other choice. The kit I received was incredibly well set. It included the major gaskets, replacement air correction jets and springs, new crush seals for the pump jets, a pair of ball bearings for the "pump non-return", a pair of copper crush seals for the fuel inlet and a big collection of rubber o-rings. It really had everything except a manifest indicating what part number each bit was for and the gasket for the jet inspection cover was missing. At this point I realized that I took pictures of the disassembly, but failed to take pictures of the rubber seals as I cut them off.

Re-Assembly

view from firewall

With my laptop open to the SK Racing carb manual, and my phone open to both the pictures I took and a blurry exploded view drawing of the carb, I started putting it back together. I started with the last picture I took and worked by way backwards through them. The only step I took that I had to undo and do again was the placement of the gasket between the top half and the main body. I had assembled the float, but the gasket needs to set above the float, which had I thought about that for a second, it would have been obvious. The float did not fit in the opening in the gasket, nor does it ever need to along its travel path. Also confusing was where the pair of ball bearings and small rectangular rods went. Process of elimination worked well here, choosing to do other things until it was apparent what hole those dropped into.

I used liquid gasket-maker for the jet inspection cover. That stuff makes a dark sticky mess. The instructions on the bottle say to let it dry "for a few minutes" before putting the 2 pieces together which need a gasket in between. I let that sit for well past the recommended few minutes and it was still very wet.. and even after letting it sit in the sun the stuff didn't dry very much. So, I did everything else install-wise and add the inspection cover dead last.

While I had the carb in hand, I decided to add a heat shield to the underside. The header that I installed has a thermo-barrier powder coating on it, but I know from having the hood open after driving it that a ton of heat is still getting into the engine bay. I suspect the source is the header (or the radiator), and the best thing I could do for the carb is to help prevent heat from getting to it. So, I got a DCOE carb heat shield from Pierce Manifolds. The mounting bolt pattern is designed for a Weber DCOE, but the SK Racing/OER is exactly the same in this area. The venturi maintenance holes line up, the cut-outs for the intakes, etc. it all just lines up. The heat shield is heavier and thicker than I expected, but I expect it will do exactly what it is intended to do: block and route-away heat rising from the exhaust.

Install

re-install day

As easy as the carb was to remove, installs always take longer. This bugger was no different. First, the carb mates to the intake with these thin (maybe 6mm thick?) plastic isolator bits between the carb and intake. On each side of the isolator resides a rubber O-ring that is set inside a groove. So, you are managing a carb, 2 isolators and 4 O-rings at one time. That required some dexterity.

I discovered that the heat shield has a small tab on the intake side that would hit the center header pipe. Recall, the MGB has a Siamese head, so the middle 2 cylinders share an exhaust. The PO had a home made exhaust manifold with a center pipe effectively pointed straight down. The header has a more typical curve. So, the heat shield came off and I adjusted that tab to point angled upwards so it did not hit the header pipe, but actually will shield the top-most end of it. Then, I realized that I could not address the lower mounting studs with heat shield installed so I removed it again, re-installing after the carb was nutted down into the intake.

From there, the install was about what you would expect, complete with a dropped bolt under the car. I had to reverse the spring-return arm on the carb as well as flip the fuel inlet. Still, it was relatively smooth, hooking up the fuel line, control cables and air filter.

No Test Fire

By this time, I had sweated my way through most of a summer afternoon and cleaned liquid gasket maker off my hands more times than I'd like to count. As much as I wanted to enjoy the sound of the engine running, I chose instead to take the limited win: Oliver was in one piece. Boo and I went to the county fair instead of test-firing Oliver's engine. Now, Oliver is covered back up, again waiting for me to have a few hours to test fire his engine and fiddle with settings. I sincerely hope the tear down / deep cleaning was what he needed. I'll post an update when I have one.

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That's it for today. Thanks, as always, for following along-

Door Cards

Today I will be picking up where I left off regarding the doors. As I described in my last post, the front doors now open, close and lock like a real car. No slamming, not funny jiggling of the handle, etc. Just open, close and lock. Well, the passenger door lock is different from the driver, but I'll swap that out once I find all my parts. Anyway, since I had to remove the cards to fix the doors, I thought I would take the opportunity to improve them.

Door Cards As-Was

foamed card installed

With operational doors, I got to thinking about how to get the door cards to hold to their respective doors. The Arizona gentleman who ran the business creating and selling these ABS door cards was looking to sell off the business a couple of years ago, so I imagine that has happened by now. He had a mixture of molly-based fasteners delivered with the cards. Either the fastener was a screw that dug into the molly which was pushed through the card into the original mounting hole or it was a push-to-hold plastic bit. Regardless, the molly's did not hold in all of the original mounting holes on my bus (YMMV). This could have been poor implementation on my part, something particular about Hapy or just less-than-ideal engineering on the fasteners. It doesn't really matter; for Hapy, they did not work. When combined with the slamming doors, the door cards would rattle and Hapy had a very junky vibe. Now that the doors no longer need to slam shut, improving the cards adherence to the doors will help un-jalopy Hapy that little bit more.

Door Cards, Mounting Upgrade

broken M4 riv-nut bit

To remedy the floppy door cards, I tried a more permanent solution: Riv-nuts and bolts. The plan: into each original mounting hole in the door, I attach a riv-nut (it's a nut that is applied with a rivet gun, basically), and then send a bolt through a washer and then the card, into the riv-nut. Such a simple plan, and while a little time-consuming, it was easy to do. Of course, I found that not all of the original holes were the same size. To fix, I used some as large as an M6 or as small as an M4. I think this is why the supplied molly-based fasteners did not work as well: the M6-sized holes were simply too big for the molly and they fell out. As shown in the picture here, too much pressure with the riveting tool and you can break it. Once I had all of the riv-nuts set, I shifted to the cards themselves.

Noise Abatement Revisit

setting riv-nut

While I had the door cards out of the bus for repairs, I applied a thin noise-absorbing closed-cell foam to the 3 cards. This material was among the things I got a few years ago when I did the sound deadening effort, and it's application to the door cards was part of that plan. At the time, the research I did (See Hapy Noises - Part 2) indicated that multiple attack vectors would bring the best result: Constrained Layered Dampener, an open cell sound deadener like Jute Thermal and then Mass Loaded Vinyl. These all really address reducing the impact of external (and mechanical) noises transferring into the cabin. Any noises or sound that make it into the cabin which are not absorbed by the seats are prone to bouncing around. I placed some larger acoustic panels (these) under the upper bunk, in the slot where the original sunroof used to go. I believe they are helping absorb some ambient sound. I also covered the ceiling with Mega Zorbe to address the sound reflection and ambient sound absorption. In the picture on the right, here, you can see the MegaZorbe applied to the inside of the outer door skin. 

Based on the tests I did at the end of the effort, the only real gains as-measured were in the "around town" (under 40mph) zone. Decibels at idle or on the highway appeared about the same. In practice, however, using a less complex "measure" like how loud we have to run the stereo to hear it on the highway, it is definitely quieter. An even less precise indicator is how loud we need to speak to each other to have a conversation: barely louder than we talk at home, which is quiet (no yelling house) where we used to have to almost yell without the stereo on. So, I am setting aside the scientific evidence and embracing the anecdotal: this implementation of the sound abatement absolutely and significantly improved our road tripping experience. I may take more readings because the numbers I took before continue to bother me.

Door Cards, Reflective Sound Absorption Added

applying the foam

So, with all that context, I decided to press forward on my original plan to apply the thin foam sheets to the hard plastic cards. I started with the cards along the sleeping deck, running from the rear hatch forward along both sides under the windows to the rear of the rock-n-roll bed (1 foot tall by about 4 feet long). I started here for 2 reasons: it was very easy and the plastic cards were jarring-cold when bare skin pressed against them while sleeping. The foam definitely improved that.

For the slider and front doors, I simply traced the door shape on the peel-off paper side of the peel-n-stick foam and cut along the line with scissors. I aligned the cut along the card and peel-stuck them down, working from one corner, down along one side and then across. I will be applying carpet later, but felt that the foam might help reduce the reflected sound while also providing a cushion under the carpet.

With the foam applied to the cards, I considered the game of "which bolt fits" for each mounting point. I could have just started trying bolts, but that felt like an exercise in frustration. So, instead, I grabbed some painters tape and marked to the outside of each hole (where the card would not cover) which bolt size to use. I set the front door cards in place using the door pull to hold the card in the right spot. Then, I simply sent bolts through a black vinyl washer and then the card into the door. Once mounted, I removed the tape. Easy-peasy. If you do this, I suggest that you do the corners first, and only threaded enough to hold. Then, skip around the card, and have all of them like that before you start tightening. Then, again, start with the corners and pay close attention to the bottom edge near the vent. These ABS cards fit perfectly, but the one hole near the bottom align the trailing edge of the door did not line up for me and I had to skip it. YMMV, of course.

slider door foamed

The door card kit included panels for the wall under the driver-side jealous window and for the partitions behind the front seats. I have yet to do those cards, but I am holding off on doing those until I am ready to fast-follow with carpet. The foam is not as scratch-resilient as the hard plastic, and those cards take the brunt of the abuse when camping or music gear is loaded, unloaded and in-motion. So, I will apply the foam and the carpet at the same time. All of that will happen at some point in the future. As it is right now, there is that little bit less noise reflection happening and when bare skin touches the side of the sleeping area, it no longer triggers a shuddering wake up. We are taking the win.

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That's it for today. Thanks, as always, for following along-

The Doors

Yeah.. not the band, but I really like Ray Manzarak's keyboard. It has been a very busy year, and I have not been playing with cars much until very recently. Zed, the 1979 Datsun 280ZX remains covered and completely unchanged since we moved into the farmhouse. Oliver, the 1978 MGB, on the other hand, has received some of my focus. I'll start there, and then get after the original topic. 

MGB Carb Dis-Assembled

carb tear down

I arrived at the conclusion that a participating reason for Oliver running so badly (and getting worse) could be that the carb was a little gunky when I bought him, and he has gotten little use, making it worse. So, I removed the carb, took it apart and ran it thru a sonic dip / cleaner. I ordered a comprehensive rebuilding kit from Japan, and will re-assemble the carb with those bits and gaskets. I hope this will resolve his issues so we can drive him around this summer.

Door-Slamma-Slamma

Over the course of the last few years, all 3 of the regularly used doors (driver, passenger and slider) on Hapy, the 1972 VW Bus, have become harder to open and/or close. Each had their own unique issues. Starting with the slider, it suddenly refused to close outside a venue after unloading gear for a show. It would slide as far as about an inch from being actually closed and then bang on something. I couldn't tell if it was the front edge or the trailing edge, but did not have time to really resolve. I forced it closed by pushing with steady pressure against it straight towards the bus (not pushing towards the front). Fortunately, it opened and shut with similar assistance until I fixed it.

foaming doors

The driver-side door would not close consistently. I would have to bang-bang-bang it shut until it finally latched. The lock was another issue; once locked, it would not easily become unlocked, especially if anyone touched the door handle when the door was locked. This condition only worsened to the point where the lock started to fail entirely and banging the door was not holding the door shut well enough. I had the door fly open while taking a right turn and the swinging door almost hit another car.

Of the 3 doors, the passenger door was the easiest to solve, but it was the last. That door would not shut easily because the seal in the front lower corner was tweaked. This put pressure on the door handle, which also was hard to depress, so opening the door took a firm grip. The inner door cards were not holding in-place as well as they had when I installed them, so I decided to tackle the door operation and the cards as one effort.

Slider Door Adjustment

None of these issues were stuck-on-the-side-of-the-road level, but they were all annoying and reducing the joy. I started with the slider since I had to have that door open consistently for gigs. I first considered the leading edge latch mechanism. I shot Kroil into the latch, but discovered very quickly that the leading edge latch was not the issue. After shooting Kroil into and around the trailing latch, I concluded that this also was not the issue. Still, this lubrication was long overdue. I could tell that the upper hard-bar, that applies the trailing latch was misaligned (too loose). I tightened it and that seemed to resolve the closing issue, allowing the door to close consistently. Opening the door was still inconsistent. I started looking at the lower sheathed-wire that opens the trailing latch. That sheathed-wire is similar to a bike handbrake cable with an adjustment collar near the leading edge latch. This wire was dangly-loose so I tightened it until it was taught and adjusted from there until the door would easily open from working the handle.

Driver Door Fix

'74-'79 left front door latch

Repairing the driver door operation was next most important. Once the door lock was un-unlockable from the outside, the only way into the bus was through the rear hatch. So, if the bus was loaded with gear, it was an army crawl over stuff and under the headbanger to get to the front door or even the slider. Following the instructions in the Bentley manual to remove the door latch mechanism (remove outer handle, disconnect activation bar, remove inner handle, remove lower bolt in window guide, remove bolts holding latch, wiggle free), I spent a few minutes orienting to it and figuring out how it works. Since it was not working correctly, it was not easy to determine neither what was preventing it from working correctly nor how it was supposed to work. The image to the right, here, is for a later bay bus (the early bay latch does look a little different, especially in the area of greatest interest), but it should work well enough to illustrate. For orientation purposes, the side facing away in the image faces rearward when installed in the door so what we can see are the inner guts usually hidden inside the door. Consider the part furthest to the left; that is the lock/latch mechanism which connects to the activation bar. There are 2 circled springs: one larger spiral facing up (marked 1) and a smaller one partially hidden by a tab (marked 2). On the early Bay, spring #1 is not a spiral, it looks more like a "C", but on Hapy that spring was missing. Spring #2, however, was there, and it was kinda mangled.

I attempted to un-mangle spring #2, and instead it launched from the latch into my yard. Distressed, I cleaned the latch with brake cleaner while trying to arrive at a solution. Once clean, I shot the moving parts with Kroil and worked the latch. I started to come to the conclusion that without those 2 springs, the latch and lock actually worked much better. In fact, they worked great. Curious, I re-installed the latch by literally reversing the steps. I found positioning the latch inside the door and then getting the window guide in place were the challenges. I lowered the window and started testing the latch: open, close, open close, lock, try the latch, unlock, etc. It worked like any other car door latch. I can close the door with very little effort, and it stays latched. I can lock it, it stays locked and will unlock by pulling the lock tab inside the or from the key on the outside. Attempting to open the door when locked no longer fouls the lock. I mean, I can try the handle and then immediately unlock it. Even unlocking it no longer requires moving the key like I was locking it first (which I had to do even if no one tried the handle).

Passenger Door Fix

This was the easiest fix of the 3. The Passenger door resisted closing and the handle needed Herculean grip. I repeated what I did on the driver side first: remove the latch, clean and Kroil it. Then, I re-installed. This resolved the Herculean grip issue. The door resistance stemmed from the door seal not being correctly place in the forward lower corner of the door. It was hanging on the inside edge of the door. I still intend to paint Hapy this summer, so I applied a little carpenter glue on the seal rather than the super-strong black seal adhesive. I held it in place by hand until it seemed to hold and then shut the door to really hold it in place while the glue dried. This totally fixed the close resistance.

I started on the door cards, but didn't complete that. I will post about the door card improvement once they are back in Hapy.

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That's it for today. There have been many adventures and experiments over the last few months. I'll get to posting them as time makes itself available. Thanks, as always, for following along-

4Peaks 2024 - Music Report

I mentioned in the 4Peaks 2024 Road and Festival Report that I would post about the bands. This year we were able to see or at least very clearly hear every band. So, this is fairly exhaustive. I will follow a similar pattern to what I did in 2021 (See 4Peaks 2021 Music Report).

Stages

TEB closing Friday

4Peaks has always had at least 2 stages. Some years, there was a third stage in Kidlandia for quieter acoustic singer-songwriter sets. This stage was not there in 2021 (no Kidlandia either) nor this year. Perhaps, that stage was an experiment that will return. The main stage appeared to be the same stage that has been used in prior years. It featured large Ryan Kerrigan side tapestries and a large sheer fabric across the back of the stage with a big floating 4Peaks logo in the center. Across the top, of course, was "4Peaks Music Festival", there were many speakers suspended on either side and across the front, lights, fog machine, etc.

The smaller (Lava Rock) stage was not an enclosed tent as had been prior years, nor was it the small platform used in 2021. Instead, the house space looked like an inverted taco and felt like a large concert shell, creating a shaded, but open space. Boo and I really liked the open air. The lack of sides allowed breezes to pass through and allowed the music to flow out more clearly out into the larger event space. We hope they repeat this set up in future years. The stage itself was nearly as wide as the usable part of the main stage, but lower to the ground (but not by much) so the artists who appeared on this stage felt closer, more intimate. Unlike prior years, the shorter Thursday evening of bands played on the main stage. This was by design from the outset, but it was not clear why. Sunday was as-usual with the 2 bands playing this (Lava Rock  / smaller) stage. The morning yoga classes were also held at the Lava Rock stage.

Music

In the past, I would describe the band's sound and then explain whether I would go see them again. This usually takes the form of "I would stay at my bar if they showed up" or something like that. Copying what I did in 2021, I will shorten those statements into a number 1-5:

1 - if (artist) arrived to perform at a place I was all set up for the night, I would leave

2 - if (artist) showed up to play, I would pay my bill and prepare to leave but look for improvement

3 - if (artist) showed up, that's fine, but I'm not looking for them

4 - I will pay attention to when they are playing in town and go if I can

5 - I will look for this artist, add them to my instagram and jambase feeds, etc

Magnolia Boulevard

Overall, the bands were good. It seems like we are finally out of the "Age of the Banjo" and entering the "Age of the Keyboard". Years ago, when Mumford and Sons were all over the radio, it seemed like every new band with more than 2 people in it had a banjo and too many of their songs featured banjo solos. I called it "Death by Banjo". More like a slow death, as it was making me leery of festivals. As years passed, banjo solos diminished and in their place bands had bridged that gap with guitar solos. Now, it feels like we are seeing more keyboards, and with them the considerable variety of sounds produced. From organ to electric piano to some crazy (or dirty) Moog synth, I absolutely welcome the re-emergence of the keyboard. Few sounds with snap your spine quite like some funky keyboard.

Thursday

Billy and the Box-Kid: (2) bluesy, but pitchy kinda rock-ish 5-piece with 2 electric guitars, 1 acoustic guitar, a bass and a cajon (plus noisemakers like cymbals, etc). Fun local Bend band.

The Pickpockets: (3) 5-piece bluegrass with really nice intertwining instrumentals. Good vocals.

TEB: (4) These guys are kinda new-age jazz meets jam / prog-rock band. Very skilled, super clean tone. 6-piece including a guest additional lead guitarist with absolutely slammin keys. With 3 lead instruments, they tossed the solos back and forth, from keys to guest (on a LesPaul) to lead singer (on a Strat/Telecaster). The grooves were super fun and these guys were very dance-able bringing different rhythms from song to song. Overall they are a really good band, but the bass player, a fellow lefty, was visually (and sometimes musically) distracting.

Friday

Wolfchild: (2) I was really not excited about Wolfchild and would only check him out at a coffee shop or similar where I can tuck in for a full show of slow story-based singer-songwriter material. He was way too low key for a festival, especially one geared towards grooving jams and/or power vocals. Wolfchild would probably fit better into a folk festival.

GreenNeck DareDevils: (2) Good instrumentalists; tight band with strong solos and decent backup vocals. So why a 2? The vocalist tries too hard, over-singing the melodies. Between every song he hit us with "Let's go" crap like, seriously, the whole time, every time. Not to over-grind it, but he had a professional announcer voice (like a DJ or voice-overs for advertisements) that made all of it feel less sincere. If not for the band around him, it would be a 1. Yeah, I know that's harsh. My blog, my thoughts.

Miko Marks: (5) Holy crap. I mean, like, wow. Miko's vocals are amazing, pulling tones like early Tina Turner, Mavis Staples or Aretha with a full-on hard-bangin band. Soul, Gospel, R&B, this 4-piece started playing to a crowd of maybe 50 of us and by the time they were done there were well over 200 people, pulled from their respective camps. Guitarist also played harmonica that killed. Keyboards were clean electric piano toned (coulda been louder in the mix, mr soundman) and the bass player was arguably the best fit-for-style of the whole festival. He created a pocket and we all danced in it. Definitely the most solid dancing bass of the festival. Miko Marks are legit, we will definitely see them again.

Ural Thomas and the Pain: (3) Chicago blues / MoTown. Baritone sax, multiple percussionists, keys. Very professional outfit, but lacked the special something that inspires. The musicians around Ural had periods when they looked bored so the energy from the stage was not very powerful. Perhaps, they suffered from following Miko Marks' so their perceived disinterest was really just because Miko Marks had just thrown down so hard.

ALO: (3) Jerry Garcia electric guitar tone, noodle band. ALO has appeared at this festival a few times, and we left the concert area during Ural Thomas, so we heard ALO from the campground. Their rating might have suffered from Ural Thomas, so let's call it 3.5.

Daniel Donato's Cosmic Country: (5) These guys could play a straight Nashville country set, a bluegrass set or go full jam-band. They do all 3 styles incredibly well. Take those three things and throw them in a blender and that's how their set went: show us some country... show us some bluegrass... maybe a little jam.. and then start moving from one to the other. Shazam. Mind blown. For such a big stage and overflowing crowd, it felt very intimate with Daniel somehow bridging to the crowd such that we felt like he was playing to and for us, and not just putting on a show. Such a great vibe, and a fun band. They are an incredibly skilled 4-piece (guitar/singer, keys, drums, upright/electric bass), with perhaps the most complex electric bass work of the festival.

Broken Compass Bluegrass: we mostly missed them (they started at 10PM), but knew they would be on the big stage on Saturday. Great female vocal and they sounded like a lot of strings, but there were only 4 members and one of them was a bass, so that left a mandolin, violin/fiddle and a guitar. They made those sound like way more than 3 people. I mean that in a good way.

Saturday

Hasbens: (2) These guys had amateurish lyrics / vocals / stage banter like they were not really playing to a festival. More like they were playing around with some of their friends in their backyard. Cool they can get so comfortable, but their good jams were diminished by that professionalism gap. We were not at the stage, so maybe there was like a group of, like, 10 people so it felt to them like it was a backyard bbq. The mains were so strong, though, that the bands could be heard clearly over 500 feet away, sending it 100 meters into the camping zone, reaching lots of folks.

Bon Bon Vivant: (3) New Orleans horns, speakeasy-jazz with female vocals. They were really good at what they do, but it's not really my thing. Rating suffers accordingly.

Broken Compass Bluegrass: (3) Solid bluegrass 4-piece. Great lead and backup vocals. Just as good as the night before, but the day mix by the sound guy was even fuller/better. They played a knockout "Jack Straw" with multi-part harmonies.

Magnolia Boulevard: (4) Kentucky-based rockers with a strong female lead vocal. It seemed like the band was more supporting her, unlike Miko Marks' band which vibed more like a democratic band. Good jams on the keys, but lead guitar wasn't very inspired. Very generic solos from him, but he didn't take as many as the keyboardist. Maybe he was tired or something. The overall EQ of the band was too boomy, lacking punching clarity and the keys were buried in the mix which is too bad since they were the lead-instrument highlight.

Southern Avenue: (3) Very Portland Blues Festival. Strong female vocal with piano and a super clean guitar. They threw down a very clean, produced blues show with little raw or unexpected. As a jam-band fan, that is not a good thing; I would rather hear some edges, some risks even a mistake if it is in the interest of raising it up. On the other hand, this band would be a hit at the blues festival.

Diggin Dirt: (5) They had a Sly and the Family Stone or James Brown vibe meets mid-70's power. With a super strong male lead vocal and bangin horns backed by an early disco / 70's funk rhythm section these guys threw down HARD. They are out of northern California and we will definitely see them again. They threw down a Mississippi Queen that just crushed. Highlight of the day.

Neal Francis: (4) These guys are total pro's with great keys and a bumpin' rhythm. At the time, I described them to Boo as "walk like an ape music", like you just can't not dance. Your brain may say "but I'm in a crowd at a subway stop during morning rush hour" but your hips, listening through your headphones don't care. Must... Dance. Really great jams.

Pixie and the Partygrass Boys: (3) Bluegrass, of course. I suppose any band with the word "grass" in it must by definition be a bluegrass band? This group had played 2 days earlier at the Sawtooth Valley Gathering in Stanley Idaho, making the long trek to 4Peaks in between. That didn't appear to take any energy off their performance, though. Good fiddle work and mandolin, but, I think, simply comparing them to Broken Compass, bluegrass-to-bluegrass, I liked Broken Compass more.

Sunday

Hasbens plays Phish: (4) This was very unexpected. After an unimpressive opening on Saturday, they came out on Sunday and jammed Phish so hard. I don't know Phish tunes as well as some other artists, but they sounded amazing and the crowd ate it up. The few songs I recognized were done incredibly well. Sunday shows are generally not very well attended as folks pack up and leave in large numbers and very early. Still, they filled the shaded area of the bowl, and crushed. They have inspired both me and Boo to listen to more Phish. In fact, we created a new Pandora channel to facilitate.

Garcia Birthday Band: (2) They are a Grateful Dead cover band from Portland I've seen a few times. They are pretty much the same as they have been for years. Maybe I have unreasonable expectations of improvement, but this show wasn't the best I've seen from them. Regardless, they played an odd set, placing songs together in a kinda patch-quilt way that didn't fit together. But, it included a St Stephen and an Eleven (though the solo/jam part was in 4/4 not 11/8). The leads were okay, but just okay. Their vocals are pitchy with a not-so-great tone. In the end, there's a reason I (confessed DeadHead) don't go out to see these guys when they are basically the hometown Dead cover band and it's not just because my ex-wife goes to all their shows: they just really aren't that good.

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Well, that's the band run-down. Boo and I left during the Garcia Birthday Band's execution of the Eleven, knowing we had a 4+ hours long drive home. We had not yet tried to start Hapy, so we also knew there was a possibility that the starter would need and R&R before we could leave the camp zone. As I mentioned in the prior 4Peaks 2024 post, Hapy was a great runner this trip, and started right up. As to the bands, we look forward to seeing Miko Marks, Diggin Dirt, Magnolia Boulevard, Neal Francis and Cosmic Country again. That's 5 new gotta-see-them-agains from one 4Peaks. That might be a 4Peaks best. Thanks again Stacey and your team.

That's it for today. Thanks, as always, for following along-

4Peaks 2024 - Road and Festival report

It's that wonderful time of year again when Boo and I trek over the Cascades in Hapy the Wonderbus to take in whatever Stacey has cooked up for 4Peaks. After taking a couple of years off, she and her staff put together a fantastic return. Some years, I have spread my love of 4Peaks across 3 posts, covering our travels, the festival and the music as separate posts. Since we had very little in terms of adventures getting to and from, I will only have 2 posts this year, with the other one dedicated to the bands.

Backdrop

4Peak sunset

After replacing Hapy's starter and then doing the seals on the injection pump (see Diesel Dumping Discontinued, we still experience sporadic issues with Hapy starting. Once he starts, he runs like a champ. For example, the weekend before 4Peaks, I had driven Hapy, laden with gear, to a show and then over to the after-party. He was not interested in driving home. So, he came home on a flatbed and after removing and re-installing the starter, he would start again. A 1972 microbus should not behave like Windows 95, requiring a shut-down/restart sequence pretty much anytime the temperature changes.

I am also seeing diesel fuel drips on the bottom edge of the oil pan. Overnight, there will be a small wet spot underneath. While we are all fairly well aware that VW's like to mark their spot (it's usually oil), I think the Injection Pump reseal may not have 100% solved the problem. In fact, I think the failure-to-start issue has nothing at all to do with the starter and everything to do with the pump losing some of it's prime overnight. With starting concerns in my head, we spent the day before 4Peaks locating and packing our gear. I say locating because with the move and all the construction, our gear had moved around a bit. We used what we call "the Boot" to carry lawn chairs, the folding table, a just-in-case personal porta-potty, and a few other larger items. This makes for a much easier vagabond, and much better visibility.

There and Back Again

sporting a 2019 cup

With thoughts of no-start in our heads, we followed the philosophy we had years ago when we left town for ChinookFest (see ChinookFest 2017 Road Report) to go one stop at a time. Each time we stopped, we would park on an incline and well out of the way in case we needed to roll-start or R&R the starter again. Luck was on our side as we did not suffer a no-start, but luck favors the wise, and we did not shut off the engine unless we absolutely had to. For example, we had to shut off the engine for the fill-up on our way out of town, but we chose to try to get all the way home without re-filling (that's almost 350 miles round trip, which is especially dicey with a fuel leak). We also did not turn off the engine at the rest stop on the US-22 or any other time until we parked for the night at WinCo in Bend.

The route to and from 4Peaks is well worn by now: US-217 to I-5 South to US-22 East to US-20 East. We left before dark, but it was still almost 8PM. Traffic was light all the way to mile post 72 on OR-22 where we hit a night-time paving operation. Again, we chose to not turn off the engine while we sat for at least 15 minutes. Once we were through the construction, the traffic pressure behind us was downright scary. Apparently, many others who travel at night believe the speed limits and other safety expectations (like not tailgating, not cutting people off and not trying to run others off the road) expire at sunset. 7 or 8 vehicles of the possibly 30 which were in the construction queue passed us before we reached Sisters. Of those, the first 2 were perhaps the most dangerous I've had the displeasure of sharing a road. One was in a lifted truck who was following so close I could not consistently see his high-beams, but they were so bright they illuminated the road around us. Recall, we had the Boot, so the rear of the bus was a full meter further back than the bumper usually was. I now wonder whether a person could have walked between our vehicles, he was so close, and we were going 55-60 mph on curvy mountain roads.

 

When we arrived at the first passing lane, I immediately moved to the furthest right edge of the lane an eased my speed down to 55. He blew past and then I discovered he had a lane-filling double-axled utility trailer attached. If I had made a sudden stop to avoid wildlife, debris or a broken down car, his mass would have plowed through us. But he wasn't the scariest. The truck immediately behind him was worse: He tried to pass after the passing lane had ended and practically skimmed my mirror off as he passed. That road menace was also hauling a double-axled trailer, but his was a camper and twice as long as the utility trailer. I nearly hit the gravel on the far side of the right shoulder before he passed and I could aright Hapy. The others passed during dotted yellow lines or regular passing lanes and mostly did not create too much excitement.

restival

We vagabonded (slept in Hapy without putting the top up) in the WinCo parking lot, parking around back where the employees park, but also where the ground has a slight downgrade towards the exit. We hit the bathrooms and bought ourselves some dinner from the service deli, scarfed and went to sleep. The following morning, we returned to WinCo for bathrooms and breakfast. We were 20 minutes from the gates and had all morning so we hit the shops, collecting the things we were unable to find before leaving town (camp shower, an extra yoga mat, some bath towels, etc), and, of course, the coffee cart for a couple Americanos.

The drive home was less eventful and once Hapy started we didn't shut him off until we got home. We were very appreciative of all of our friends at 4Peaks sending "he will start" vibes our way. There were multiple stretches of road where the traffic was bad enough for us to clutch in and out of 1st gear: heading into Sisters from the East on US-20 and heading North on I-5 between Donald and Wilsonville. These are both common slow traffic areas, but I felt that clutch pedal in my left butt cheek the next morning. Otherwise the roads were clear, the traffic non-threatening and the weather was a comfortable 25*C (77*F).

4Peaks - The Festival

Sonny and Hapy

Boo and I have been going to 4Peaks since 2015 (see the first 1..2..3..4Peaks). The festival had been growing through 2019 and then CoViD hit. Stacey cancelled 2020 for CoViD, did a mini-Peaks for 2021, but then skipped the next 2 years to rethink/retool/refocus (and get married! Congrats Stacey!). I thought, perhaps, 4Peaks was not coming back. Needless to say, we are glad it did. 2024 was smaller, maybe even smaller than it was in 2015 at the old location. It was the same groovy, with art by Ryan Kerrigan, great local food vendors and our emerging favorite: yoga with Nicole. Boo and I hit Nicole's class all 3 days it was offered, and fell all the more in love with her approach. So holistic, and full of explanations of why we're doing certain things. Afterwards, we feel physically great, emotionally centered and a little smarter. Thanks Nicole!

We arrived about an hour after the gates opened, so we were able to set up near the entrance to the festival grounds. This meant that, like mini-Peaks, we would have incredible sound quality at our camping spot. Boo suffered with sinus pressure on Saturday so we heard most of the bands from "home", rather than in-venue, unlike Friday when we spent considerable time inside. The sound was amazing, and when she had stretches of feeling good, we danced in the grass. An additional benefit of where we camped was our proximity to the 4Peaks Founders' camp (Stacey and her closest friends, basically). So, while we had seen most of them over the years at various spots within the festival, we hadn't really met them, had drinks, swapped stories, etc. They're lovely people and massive Phish-heads, so we got on great. Michael, one of their friends, arrived late in a yellow-orange late Bay named Sonny, and set up alongside our camp. Michael farms cherries, and just completed his harvest... causing him to arrive so late. Griffin was in a golden tent and worked at a camp outside Sisters, and Pete drove down from Montana and slept in the bed of his truck. Further up the fire lane, a 1978 VW Westy driven by Natalie (2nd owner!) and her husband camped. She had a sign-sign on the side of her bus encouraging attendees to write a positive note and sign in exchange for a 4Peaks sticker she had made. Of course we participated and that sticker will appear on Hapy shortly. Over the course of the weekend, we re-connected with many of our old friends (Mike and Suzie, now living in Central OR, eg) as well. Obviously, we made a bunch of new ones. There are few things like a couple of old VW's to bring the curious, and we are more than Hapy to chat up whoever drops by.

Main Stage from behind Hapy

The last morning always comes too soon, and like every other year, we left before the final band (Garcia Birthday Band) had completed their set. We were not alone. It is actually fairly common for most of the festival goers to be gone before the final band finishes, and we were not in the 1st half of those who left. We had tried every food vendor, explored every product vendor, visited Kidlandia, played on the swings, walked the entire camping zone, danced and laughed all weekend. We will be watching our email for early-bird ticket announcements for 4Peaks 2025; we are 4Peaks lifer's now.

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That's it for today. I'll post about the bands next time. Thanks, as always, for following along-

temp tattoo from the Founders

Mini Q-Tron modifications

In a complete departure from my usual posts about cars, my bus, or even working on an old house, today's post is about my electrical experiments on an Electro-Harmonix Mini Q-Tron. It took me quite a bit of time to find bits and pieces of advice on how to meaningfully modify these things, so this may help others who endeavor to do the same. I do need to point out that my experiments and eventual (partial) success was only possible because of folks on various forums making small modifications and improvements.

What / Why Mini Q-Tron

So, what is a Mini Q-Tron and why would anyone want it and then want to modify it? It is a "T-Wah" or touch-wah pedal (also called an envelope filter) that adds a fixed amount of "wah" or flange to the signal passed into it versus a classic wah pedal that changes the tone based on how the user moves the "accelerator" pedal. There are 3 knobs that control the intensity, shape and tone of the change. Why would you want it? On a bass, it has very limited application, but it's fun. I imagine a Q-Tron is much more useful for a guitarist, especially if you are seeking that early-80's Jerry Garcia tone before he started experimenting with Midi. Anyway, if it's so fun, why modify it?

There is 1 big reason why the Mini Q-Tron goes from "hey this is cool" to sits-on-a-shelf-never-used or simply returned/sold: the volume output of the unit is louder when turned on than when by-passed. So, if you're playing something and want to add a little T-Wah to it, you click it on and suddenly you are much louder. So, turning it on and off during a song is not possible without a volume pedal next to it or some other pedal configuration. I have tried placing a compressor after it, and that helps, but if you like to have some uncompressed signal pass thru your compressor (and your compressor supports that like mine does), the volume spike will still be experienced after the compressor. To address the volume change between by-pass and in-use, we add a volume knob. That solves the 1 big reason.

In my opinion, there is a second short-coming with the Mini Q-Tron: it lacks a blend control. A blend control is another knob allows some degree of original (called "dry") signal to pass through even when the pedal is in use. This adds another whole dimension to the T-Wah effect. You can set intensity and shape that you want and then vary how much influence that changed sound has on your final output. A blend control often appears on bass-centric pedals so some unmodified signal can pass through.

Last, for me, this pedal was a gift. I can't return it and guilt would prevent me from selling it. I got it almost 20 years ago and it has sat on a shelf most of that time. I figure if I damage or destroy it, I haven't lost anything other than time. I suppose purposely destroying a gift could be worse than selling it, but let's not get all caught up in ethics here. Besides, this kind of electrical work is fun: clean, relatively modern wiring managed while indoors (versus 50 years old in the rain).

Output Volume Knob

There is a great thread on the TalkBass forum that goes into some detail similar to what I described above. More importantly, there are 2 pictures which show exactly where to make modifications to include a volume knob. Out of respect for the author and the forum, I won't repost the text nor images, but you basically add a potentiometer between the circuit board and the switch, in the signal path of the blue wire. What was not clearly defined was the size of the resistor. The forum-goers seemed to circle around a 10k pot, and I found that to be almost as useless as no knob at all. The knob had very little room for adjustment between no signal and full signal. There are limits to my purchasing and experimenting, but even the 2k pot I am using now has a limited amount of sweep on it. I have it less than a 2/3 turn off the bottom (see picture on the right here) since it is effectively full signal above that. The 10k pot had significantly less room before full signal passed; it was like a nudge off the bottom. I might try a 500ohm pot if I grow tired of small bumps to the knob changing the output dramatically. As it is, the volume is mostly set-and-forget since the whole point is having the volume not spike simply from the pedal being engaged. I say mostly because depending on what is upstream, you may actually have to change the volume. I discovered that during a jam this past weekend.

Other than the resistor value, I followed the instructions fairly closely and tested the output by sending signal into my compressor and adjusting the knob based on the compressor input LED's values until they remained the same when turning the Q-Tron on and off. At this point, I felt had the Q-Tron fairly well-tamed. I even drilled the hole on the face of the case, passed the stalk up thru, nutted it down and stuck a knob on there. That's my mini Q-Tron in the picture on the right at this point.

Blend Control

I have tried the Q-Tron like that for a little bit and I like the wah effect, but not all the time and sometimes it got to the point of being intrusive. At least now, I can add it mid-song and not throw the bass way out in front of everything else. There are some songs, like maybe some old 70's tunes or artists (like the Meters, Parliament or even Bill Withers, for example) that lend themselves well to a little wah on the bass. Even if the volume is consistent, the effect doesn't sit in the mix EQ right: the low end is completely sacrificed; this is exactly why bass effect pedals often have a blend knob. You can't have fat 70's funk and no low end. That just ain't happenin. To remedy, I want to add some original signal back in. I could split the signal before it enters the Q-Tron and have another pedal control the signal flow, but floorspace on small stages is already at a premium and the fewer things I need to plug together, the fewer things that could go wrong. So, I started looking into adding a blend control to the pedal. Regardless of how well my GoogleFu was working any given day, I was unable to find a simple pictorial or text-only how-to anywhere. So, I went experimenting without a net, and while it was interesting, they were ultimately fruitless. Hopefully these efforts help someone else, but at minimum, I now understand that blending something that could form a circuit loop requires more than a simple stacked knob.... which is why I could not find something simple. There isn't one.

Blend Attempt Learnings

I tried anyway, and documented my experiments here so you don't waste your time. A blend control potentiometer is unlike a volume or tone knob. Those other knobs have one variable resistor, generally accepting signal from the center post and directing it to one post or the other based on the position of the control stalk. They are not all like this so take resistance measurements so you know what you have before you warm up your solder iron. For blending, you cannot simply direct 2 separate inputs into the outer posts to vary what comes out the middle (think like a hot-cold water faucet). It just doesn't work that way. A blend control knob is effectively 2 stacked volume or control knobs managed by a single central stalk. The idea is that when turned one way, the resistance on the upper variable goes one direction while the lower variable goes the opposite direction, depending on which posts you are comparing. In this way, you can control 2 levels to go in opposite or similar directions at the same time.

The blend pots are not always linear and do not all behave like this, though. The NM pot that I started with, for example, has a curve such that at the exact center both sources are at 100%. As the knob moves away from center, one of the stacks drops in volume (raises in resistance) while the other remains constant. In an "AC" knob, the curves are more parabolic, crossing at the middle. So, only at the extreme end is a signal at it's highest or lowest.

To help illustrate the wiring, I nabbed the image up above on the right, here, from a guitar forum post which was describing how to wire up a blend knob between 2 pickups. Similar to the volume knob, the decisions around the resistance value for the blend were not easy. On that forum, it was posed that a lower resistance range would create a smoother transition, so using a NM100k pot would be better than a NM250k pot. It was also made clear that the values of the blend had little to no bearing on the resistance value of an independent volume knob and vice-versa (volume no impact on blend value). Last, I have read varying accounts about grounding or not grounding the blend (black wire path in the drawing). I started with ungrounded cuz easier. It seemed to me that the lower the resistance value, the better the transition, so I got the lowest blend pot I could find: NM25k. I figured if it was too low and it effectively worked like a 3 position switch: all-On | 50-50 | all-Off it would still be better than not having it at all, and then I would explore other, higher resistance settings to find a true blend. Of course, this was all guitarists talking and when I went to some bass forums, it seemed that the lower resistance values would trim some of the bottom end tone. Regardless, I saw that after I'd gotten the NM25k.

I did all the wiring and tested it out, and when the knob was off the center detent, the signal was controlled as I expected it to be: a relative percentage of wet or dry signal relative to the knob position. The issue was when the knob was at or just off center. This is where the "NM" designation above may be important. The curve for an NM pot allows for half of the sweep of the knob to be at full volume while the other half is being reduced. So, at center you have full signal from both sources. Maybe, in the case of building this blend for this application, that was too much signal. Regardless of cause, I got this super-high, almost feedback sound through it when the knob was at center. The picture on the right was taken before I tried out some ground options that seemed to help. Like, I added grounding to the blend knob and the volume knob. The feedback persisted at dead-center. Maybe it was feedback, with a processed signal passing back into the "dry" from where the blend knob was wiring them together at the switch when the knob was at the center of the sweep. I could add a one-way gate to the "dry" signal entering the knob. Or, I could try an "AC" knob that has a very different volume curve that may prevent the feedback loop simply by how the volume levels are controlled.

So, I ordered an AC blend pot and dug into my electrical stuff for the not-gate diode that I used in Hapy's ignition before I re-wired him. I added it to the black-with-white-stripe wire on the left side of the image above, with the side with a stripe (cathode) pointing towards the blend knob. A not-gate diode is basically the same as a back-flow in your plumbing: it prevents the signal from going the wrong way. Signal can go from the anode to the cathode, but not the other way.  I did not give 2 thinks about the size of the diode relative to my project, and the results were enlightening but not right. For Hapy's ignition, the amount of resistance was relatively meaningless since a ton of 12V signal was present. For this, where we are working with miliVolts, this diode introduces considerable resistance to the overall dry signal heading for the blend knob. So much resistance, in fact, that it virtually kills the dry signal, but the feedback stopped. I tried the cathode reversed but that didn't work either. Besides, I had it oriented correctly, it's just the wrong value.

In the end, I removed the diode and returned the unit to the way it was (volume control only). I intend to return when I can find an elegant solution, be it the correct diode or another entire circuit board to add in (maybe something like this). I'm hoping the former, but will do the later if I find I am enjoying the Q-Tron and want to adjust it that little bit more. I took the Q-Tron to a jam on Saturday with a few other pedals I don't get to play with very often, and found that adding a phaser after the Q-Tron took some of the bite out of the t-wah without losing the fun. It felt like some of the lower end came back thru the phaser too, so maybe there's hope for this pedal without a blend control. Time will tell.

Thanks, as always, for following along. I will return to my more typical car/bus/house stuff next time-

Fixing Hapy Furnace (part 2)

Picking up where I left off the last post, Hapy has an operational furnace again.

Fuel Pump Swap

As I mentioned in my last post, the fuel pump which originally delivered with the heater/furnace would not work when I tried to bring things back to life. I splurged and bought a more expensive "quiet" model for $50US rather than another standard pump for $20US. I figured quieter or not, the more expensive pump may have better parts in it, and it may last longer whether it is quieter or not. Or it was just a marketing gimmick and I got took. Let's chalk it up to the cost of an experiment.

The old fuel line path was relatively simple. The "hard" (clear but firm plastic) lines that delivered with the furnace had short (50mm / 2-inch) stretches of fuel hose between them and the pump. The pump was suspended from a cross beam by the included rubber mount held in place by a single sheet metal screw. After a few turns with a screwdriver, the pump was on the ground. A few more and the fuel lines were removed from it. The supply fuel line started dripping fuel after a few seconds, so I caught it with a pan. The line on the pressurized side was completely empty, so no drips. I simply reversed the removal: added the rubber mount from the supply end of the pump, added the supply fuel line, suspended the pump from the cross beam and then added the pressurized-side line.

Prime and Fire Up

The Afterburner has a control page where you can direct only the fuel pump to fire up. This allows you to get fuel all the way to the furnace without the glow plug turning on (drawing the battery and maybe burning out the glow plug). I had not connected the pressure line to the furnace, but I wanted to clear the lines of any bad fuel, so I moved the pan under the dangling hardline and triggered the Afterburner to prime. Within a minute of the prime starting, fuel started spurting out the end of the line. It took longer than I expected it to, but perhaps that is an indication of how little fuel these units actually consume. Once the fuel leaving the pressure line looked like the fuel supplied at a filling station, I stopped the prime function and connected the hardline to the fuel hose dangling from the furnace.

While the pump was slightly larger than the original, it did not seem much quieter during the prime. Of course, I hadn't heard it pump in a couple of years, and memory is a funny thing. I do recall that when the furnace was running, I could hear the tick-tick-tick of the fuel pump over the whoosh of the furnace. With this in mind, I set the furnace to start. I did not want to consider the experiment with the new thicker, dedicated wiring yet, so I left the battery tender hooked up. At no point did the battery fall below 13.5V so either the tender was working hard, or the new wiring is a hit.

Regardless, the glow plug got lit, the fan started spinning and after 2 or 3 minutes the furnace ignited. This felt like a considerably longer period of time than before. Perhaps the priming was incomplete and I needed to prime again after connecting the hose to the furnace. Perhaps it took time to ignite simply because it had been so long. Once it ignited, a huge plume of smoke poured out of the little muffler. There was virtually no wind, so the cloud grew and sat slowly obscuring first the rear end of the bus and slowly 2/3 of the bus before a light breeze broke it up. After a few minutes, the cloud dissipated and the exhaust emission was reduced to nothing. All that remained was a light smokey haze inside the bus. I regret not taking a picture of that.

Noise Observations

While the temperature inside the bus slowly crept up from 55*F (13*C), I noted the noises. I could only hear the fuel pump ticking inside the cabinet where the furnace is located and even then, only when I stuck my head into the cabinet. I think the pressurized line is transmitting it. I stuck my head into the rock-n-roll cabinet above the spot where pump is actually installed and could not hear it. Maybe this new pump is quieter. Then, I moved outside where in the past I could clearly hear the pump from several feet away, even from the passenger-door side. I could not hear it, but I could hear the furnace whoosh. Of course, my muffler-ing of the furnace is different this time, having removed the second small rectangular muffler and the motorbike muffler. Perhaps the pump is no quieter, but the furnace is that much louder. To determine if the muffler configuration is a variable, I decided I will conduct another test at a different time, after re-attaching the other muffler bits. I had thought about bringing them along for while-parked use, and maybe I will need to, out of respect for our festival-going neighbors. In the past, I took decibel readings, but they were for while the furnace held a temperature, not during temp catch-up (full blast).

I will continue to experiment with noise readings and post if I find any readings are different than they were 4 years ago. I expect that once I put the extra rectangular and motorbike mufflers on, the readings will be what they were before. The only real mystery to me is whether the fuel pump can be heard over it. At this point, though, the pump seems significantly quieter.

Thanks, as always, for following along-

Fixing Hapy Furnace (part 1)

Having finally arrived at a place where we have some heat while we're moving, I felt motivated to fix the heat for when we are standing still. Today's post covers most of the saga of getting a Chinese diesel heater operational again. Spoiler alert: the heater isn't running by the end of this post.

Brief History

Back in the early days of CoViD, I installed one of those Chinese diesel parking heaters into Hapy (See Parking Heater 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and Final for deep detail). While I was able to run it a few times, I found that the heater pulled the voltage way down on whichever battery was connected to it. I tried to solve by providing multiple batteries to source from: one to start, one to run, but switching from battery to battery seemed like a bad practice. I had other priorities, so I just let the furnace sit unused. When I did the sound deadening effort and the luxury electrical re-wire, I dismantled the cabinet which housed the furnace so I could get sound deadener underneath it and electrical cables through it. This meant dismantling part of the furnace too. Later, when the band wanted to use Hapy for the album cover, I removed the furnace exhaust so it would not appear in pictures. So, I had a furnace without an exhaust, and would draw way too much juice.

Electrical

Over time, and with more learning about electrical stuff, I have concluded that the wire used to convey electricity but perhaps more importantly the wire for a ground were far too thin. It was due to these thin wires that the voltage would drop so badly as the furnace attempted to compensate. Wires which would have been barely up to the job had the battery been sitting right on top of the heater will definitely NOT be up to the task once you move the battery a few feet away. This is exacerbated by running the ground to the body of the bus instead of back to the battery. The ground location should not matter as much, but I'm citing it as a participant cause anyway. So, addressing the electrical came first after removing the furnace from the bus.

A small harness of wires leaves the furnace body and enters a black plug (see picture on the right). The harness that ships with the furnace includes a pigtail that clicks into the furnace black plug. To my eye, the red and black wires in the pigtail are not nearly as thick as the wires leaving the furnace. This probably saved the manufacturer a few pennies, but the amp draw issue starts right there (and in my case got worse). So, I cut the main power and main ground wires from the furnace black plug and put male/female wire ends on them (12V/ground respectively). I made them different so I couldn't accidentally plug it in backwards. I then prepped a thick 2-wire black/red cable with matching wire ends, and routed it over to the luxury battery. At the battery end, I added a ring terminal for the ground and added a 20Amp fuse into the positive side before adding a ring terminal on that end. I left things detached as I switched to preparing for the exhaust.

Exhaust

From under the bus, it was clear that I had not made the hole(s) large enough for the exhaust, intake and fuel to be easily maintained. Quite the contrary, I had installed it such that once it was all together, it would have to all come apart to fix anything. Frowny-face. So, I started by cutting a 4-inch square hole into the lower belly pan. Many buses do not have these, but I got lucky. Anyway, with the hole cut I could see where the furnace sat, and noticed that the exhaust was getting pinched by the too-small hole in the floor as the exhaust left the furnace. So, I went topside and expanded the upper hole both in the floor of the cabinet and the steel floor of the bus. With the larger hole, the exhaust easily fits and things could be maintained from below. Still, I did what I could on the furnace itself before lowering it in: Connect a 6" long stretch of fuel line, attach a small circle of window screen to the intake (so bugs and pebbles don't get in) and then attach maybe a foot of heat-wrapped exhaust. I set the furnace in place and attached a small subset of the muffler arrangement I had used before: just one rectangular muffler. I may bring the expanded muffler set up for use when we are in tighter camping spots (like festivals), so we can bolt-on some extra quiet. I mounted the muffler to the underside of the frame rail, with the outlet pointing rearward and slightly away from center (picture on the right).

A keen eye can see some fresh Rustoleum primer + paint above the muffler where I discovered some rust had eaten all the way through the body. When I was working on the other stuff I ground the metal down, removing the rust, but exposing the holes. Sadness. That rust traces back to when this bus had a small vent window directly above this spot. That vent window was badly leaking and the rust had already been forming to the point of marring the paint when I bought this bus over 20 years ago. I eliminated the vent window in 2015 (See Calling "glass") with a window I purchased from BusBoys in Redding, CA in 2009. Some things move slower than others.

Fuel

I shifted over to fueling at this point. The fuel line that had been between the included "hard" line and the furnace had breeched, probably when I did the sound deadening. The fuel in the line looked dark, so I dropped the line into an empty pail, and figured I would prime the fuel system, and purge the bad fuel at the same time. Unfortunately, the fuel pump is no longer functional, so I am waiting on a replacement to finish this job.

Afterburner

Back when I first did this job, I bought an Afterburner from the guy who hand builds them in Australia. Apparently, there are people building knock-offs, eating into his business, since they basically have cloned his work. So, if you are looking at getting the much nicer controller for your parking heater, please connect with Mr. Jones in Australia and get the real deal. Anyway, with the Afterburner, I tried to prime the fuel system, but the fuel pump wouldn't respond. When I unplugged the pump, I got a code; I concluded the wiring to the pump was good but pump was bad. So I ordered a new, supposedly quieter, one. We'll see. While I was clowning around with the Afterburner, I got it onto my home network, downloaded the newest firmware and wandered around the new-to-me website that the Afterburner hosts. It's really cool. I am looking forward to triggering the furnace to warm the bus from inside. For reference, here is a link to the user manual.

This is as far as I've gotten. I am waiting for a new fuel pump to arrive. I need to purge the old lines of nasty fuel, and install that new pump. I expect there will be other discoveries, and I need to rebuild the cabinet innards. There's always opportunities to improve things. Anyway, thanks, as always, for following along-