Where were we?

Hapy New Year. It has been a busy holiday season for pretty much everyone I know, and Boo and I are no exception. Today's post will touch on some of the things we have been getting after since my last post. 

CoViD Hangover

Cooper Spur snow

During one of my holiday social engagements, I had a conversation with my niece where we were both remarking on how could we have been able to do all the things we're doing now plus have to commute to work every day. I recall, back before the whole CoViD shutdown / work-remote thing started, I would take a train into the city, work in an office all day, train to the gym to work out for an hour or so and then walk a couple miles home. Around that work-week schedule, I went out to play or listen to music, attended ball games, visited friends etc like most people. And, of course, fiddled on cars a little bit. Now that we are more consistently mingling with others, I am having a hard time rationalizing how I was able to do it while maintaining that daily cycle. I know many people are returning to offices, and I wonder if there are more people out there trying to figure out how to make it all work again. Frankly, I think many people are failing at it and that's why there is such a growing discontent. Maybe it's the holidaze, but I swear I am encountering more surly people than ever lately.

Cooper Spur

Tuukka at rest

Of course, my holidaze had much more going on and much more positive interactions than just my realization about the world's increasing surly. Boo and I spent XmasEve and XmasDay with Boo's family. This was emotionally and spiritually taxing for a couple of introverts, but we were warmly welcomed and had a really nice time. The weekend before, my younger siblings and their families joined Boo, Tuukka and I at Cooper Spur, on the east side of Mount Hood. Boo and I took Tuukka for long walks along the groomed cross-country skiing paths, and shared meals, crafts, music and games with my siblings' families. It was a great kick-off to a holiday season.

NewOldHouse - 1/4 round

Anyway, back to what I was originally going to post on: NewOldHouse projects. Among the things left incomplete, preventing us from moving in-earnest into NewOldHouse was the 1/4 round along the baseboards. I touched on this last time, but simply identifying which pieces were to go where was only part of the battle. Once identified, cleaned and primed, I needed to install them. For this, I got a finish-nailer powered by an air compressor, and then moved my air compressor down to NewOldHouse. Working with the nailer was fun: point, press and shoot. I had the 1/4 round installed in a couple hours. Next, I spackled the nail holes, sanded them flush and then caulked the top of the 1/4 round to the base board. Last, I slid around with a paint bucket and brush, brushing in the 1/4-round with the same paint that I shot the walls and trim last summer. Start-to-finish, it took me a few days, working a few hours a day (let's say 15 hours). I need to caulk the bottom of the 1/4-round to the floor with clear silicone caulk (at least along the outer walls), and then the 1/4 round is complete.

NewOldHouse - bathroom

bathroom floor done

The bathroom was in mediocre shape when we bought the house, even after all the rubbish was removed and it was cleaned. There are meaningful divots in the plaster, the sink cabinet was nasty and the floor under the toilet was failing. First, the sink and cabinet were removed. The cabinet went to the dump; I don't remember what we did with the sink. Then, the toilet was removed, and set into the tub while the floor was cleared. Once the linoleum was pulled, we could see the original hardwood floor was in pretty bad shape. We removed the pieces around the waste pipe and could see that the sub-floor had been compromised at one point. We were around this point when I posted last.

Since then, the damaged pieces of sub floor have been removed and replaced. New flooring has been installed on top of that, a full floor sheet of thin veneer was installed on top of that and peel-n-stick tiles applied on top of that. The peel-n-stick took a full day, which seemed like a really long time for a room not much more than 8 square meters (5 foot by 5 foot). Details take time, though, and tiles will not fit exactly without trimming. So, for aesthetics, you want the trimming to be behind the toilet or under a cabinet with the uncut tiles along the main walls that you can easily see. This means, though, that you need to lay everything out to figure out where the cuts need to be for the heat and the waste. Also, orienting the tiles one direction of another takes some laying out, thinking, and laying out again. Quality takes time; slapping things together is fast, but it will always look... well.. slapped together.

Our last hiccup was with the toilet waste flange in the floor. The studs to which the toilet should mount were stripped and rusted to the flange. They needed to be cut off, drilled out, tapped and then new studs threaded before we could install the toilet. Once ready, though, it was a fairly simple process to set the wax ring and install the toilet.

Bathroom Next

cleaning hardware

The sink and cabinet remain ready for install. We purchased a new cabinet / sink / mirror combination at Lowes and the low price is definitely reflected in the workmanship (or lack thereof). Still, it will work, and after some fiddling with the hinges, the doors close without rubbing. The holes for the pulls were not put in the right spots, so the handles are wonky, but again, it will work. We have all the bits and pieces, just with all the holiday events and family in town, we have not installed the sink and cabinet.

Once the sink is in, we will hang a shower rod, and re-hang the door. The hardware for the door has been cleaned up, though. Prior owners had painted without taping things off nor removing hardware so every door handle, strike plate and hinge was covered in multiple coats of paint. I have spent many otherwise-idle hours picking off paint and then rubbing down with steel wool door hardware, yet more remains.

Moving

With the 1/4-round complete, I have started moving things over to NewOldHouse. It is difficult living in one house, wanting to be in another. So, the items selected to move is not easy. I am finding things that we 100% want/need there but can live without for the time being in the current place. Obviously, this makes the move harder, and slower, but until the bathroom is fully functional, we can hang out there, and even sleep there, but it is not quite ready for full time living.

Around this work, Boo and I have been combing through all of the belongings moved here from my parent's old apartment. It has been a considerable undertaking. We have found homes for over half of the items, and while in some ways we are picking up steam, we also realize that the easy things are running out, and we will soon be left with things which only represent value to their original owners. By this, I mean things like personal correspondence, notebooks, etc that are very personal. It feels wrong to simply discard these things, but I think we will just have to work through that.

Canopy Calamity Again

example wrath of Jerry

It seems that no matter what tricks I try, the canopy known as "Jerry" just will not stand. After more windstorms, that canopy lifted and flipped onto it's side, scratching Zed again. Fortunately, the chrome around the rear window and windscreen has not been further dented, nor have either sheets of glass broken. Still, I have had enough risk of that for one winter. So, Boo and I deconstructed Jerry, leaving the poles in a heap. We used the canopy like a tarp, covering Zed for the winter. To prevent water from pooling in the hole where a sunroof will one day be, we placed a large rectangular sheet of stiff foam under the tarp. After a couple gusty days, the tarp has held firm, so Zed is hopefully protected until Spring. I think, between all of the scratches, the disappointment in both the final finish and the olive-green shade within the 9mm color, I will be sanding and re-shooting Zed before I install the interior. Since every time around is a learning opportunity, I expect this next round will be much better than the last, which was better than the one before that. Of course that means Zed will not be driving around next Summer unless we get a freak warm dry spell in April/May.

With the holidays behind us, our next significant event is the memorial for my father, planned for 21-January. For that, Boo and I will be providing our current home to my sister and her family while they visit from the Bay Area. Boo and I are marking that as the drop-date for when we can live in NewOldHouse without having to run here for various things. Please wish us luck. Thanks, as always, for following along. I hope you have a happy, healthy, and emotionally stable NewYear-

If It Doesn't Move, Paint It (Final)

After weeks of spackle, caulk and masking, we were finally ready to shoot the interior of NewOldHouse. We would have arrived here earlier had we not digressed outdoors, but when the rains come, you need to have already gotten your wet/dry solved, or you will be doing it in the rain while everything gets wet. Anyway, today's post covers the final adventure in paint, and a few other things that happened along the way because.. of course.

Just as I completed the work described in this post, I tested positive for CoViD. I am living proof that living a hermit lifestyle is not a guarantee that you won't get CoViD. I have been going to a pizza place in Hillsboro for an open jam on Wednesdays as my only outing, so at least I know where it happened. I've been down nearly 10 days with it now, so progress on cars, the house, even my job is, obviously, halted. Good times.

The Walls Came Down

thar's a furnace in thar

For some reason, when the prior owners installed the gas furnace, they put it into the main living space. I thought it was because of the proximity to the chimney, but from the garage, there is a straight path to the chimney as well, and popping an exhaust through the roof would not have been that difficult. Instead, they put it into the dining area, and then... built walls around it. The new walls were, probably, a foot away from the furnace while the furnace was located 6 inches or so from the original wall. We couldn't figure out the thinking, but we didn't like the furnace location, nor the walls. With a plan to eventually move the furnace into the garage, I tore down the walls around it.

I took the time to remove the baseboards, the door trim, door frames and the doors. I removed the trim nails and collected these reusable bits onto the garage rafters. I then went after the drywall with a rubber mallet. I didn't want to make a huge mess, I just wanted the walls down. So, I loosened the drywall from behind and then pulled sections off with gloved hands. The refuse went out to the dump pile, and I turned to the framing. This was fun. I smacked the inner wall framing a couple of times with the long-handle sledge until the bottom came free. Then, I wrenched the 2x4 back and forth to remove it from the upper. One by one the inner pieces were removed, leaving the corner and the door frames. For the door frame-framing (the 2x4's that create the rough door opening to which the door frame is attached), I removed the header first, and then the side pieces could remove in a similar fashion to the middle framing bits. Then, I took out the corner. Again, this was simply smashing with a sledge and prying with a wrecking bar until they gave way. Most of the corner came out in one large section. The ends nearest the original walls were next, and the top plate came down with those, leaving the footer. the footers were set into the original hardwood floor with 3-inch-long nails. To get to those, I carved out the top of the 2x4 with a screwdriver and then leveraged the top of the nail enough to fit the wrecking bar underneath. Some subtle pressure later and the nails were out, and the footer was out. The space seemed much larger.

 

More Masking

walls? what walls?

With the furnace now exposed, I could paint those original walls, but I did not want paint on the furnace or the nicely finished original wood floors around it. So, I spent a couple of hours with paper, plastic and tape covering everything except the venting on the front of the furnace and the exhaust to the chimney. I left those for actual paint-time because I want to keep running the furnace until then.  I know that the exhaust would meld or burn anything I wrapped it with and the front of the furnace needs to be open when in service. On paint day, I turned the furnace off for the shoot, and covered the exhaust with film, the front of the furnace with a sheet of waste cardboard.

Prime Time

Nemo at NewOldHouse

After the walls were washed and I had checked and rechecked that everything had been masked, I had considered priming everything. I decided that it was probably excessive, especially considering how clean the walls were once Boo was done with them. Still, there were some stains, so we got some some Kilz2 to cover them. The Kilz2 does not cover odors, and there were still some remaining cat smells. So, I thought about getting some original oil-based Kilz and shooting the lower 3 feet of all the walls to try to contain that. Again, overkill. I concluded that the cat urine smell was probably not in the plaster, it is probably coming from that space between the hardwood floor and the baseboards. So, I decided that after we stripped the masking out, I would shoot that space with some enzyme-based cleaner (like this).

While I did not prime everything, I did prime the popcorn ceilings in the "new addition" bedrooms (built in early 60's) out of concern for how much paint they would suck up. I shot the stains as well as the original pink paint that appeared where I removed the walls around the furnace, and the area in one of the addition bedrooms where a shelving unit had been removed. Most of these areas were reachable without having to move the sprayer. I needed to move it once, from the rear of the house to where the furnace is. Before I cleaned up the equipment and put everything away, though, I took the operation out to the now-clean future tool/parts shed and shot that entire interior with the Kilz2. It was bare wood, and I figured painting it white would help illuminate the space once filled with shelves and some lighting. The shed has a high shelf/storage area so unlike my spray adventures so far, I needed to work from a ladder to hit the shelf and ceiling well. Even still, this spray was fast, and since I had started early in the day, I felt confident that I could get most of the interior spray done.

Shooting for Good... Enough

tool shed primed

Our original plan was to buy really good white exterior paint. At $300US per 5 gallons, we changed our minds, and bought generic indoor/outdoor eggshell white paint. The house is still white, but we may need to paint again sooner. So what? There is quite a bit of siding that needs replacing, so little harm done. Fast-forward a few weeks and Boo and I got to a similar conversation about the interior paint. I painted our current house interior with an eggshell "Brazilian Tan", which is beautiful, but the house was already dark and even though the Brazilian Tan was lighter than the paint it went on top of, it's still pretty dark in there. Even in the summer. NewOldHouse is not in perma-shade like the current place it, but we decided we want it to be super bright.

We talked about painting the walls with some color, but the main rooms have coved ceilings, making it difficult to draw a line where the colored wall would meet a white ceiling. Many older houses have a picture rail that will draw that line for you. Since we don't, and we were not sure what to do color-wise AND draw-the-line-wise, we went with.... generic indoor/outdoor eggshell white paint. Sound familiar? Yep, it's the exact same paint. Why keep all these tins of touch-up paint when you can keep only one? LOL. I'm sure this paint will be acting as a primer for the next coat (that has a color), it's just a question of when. For now, white walls go with any decor... well... they will go with ours anyway.

Paint On!

furthest room shot

With the stains and popcorn ceilings primed, I switched over from the Kilz2 to the eggshell and grabbed a quick bite. My time shooting Zed taught me that once you start, you really can't stop unless there is a clear line where the painting can stop. I also remembered that ventilation is super important, so I set a box fan in the open front door (blowing out), and had the kitchen windows wide open. I wasn't sure how long the Kilz2 had been drying on the ceilings in the back bedrooms, so I started with the shed. This gave Boo the most time remaining to clean whatever walls or ceilings we had not yet cleaned. By doing the shed first, I also took advantage of the little daylight Oregon has at this time of year. The shed painted like it primed, though I fogged (light passes at a greater distance) some of the wood panels after I completed the shoot, trying to get consistent coverage. In the end, most of the walls will be covered with shelves, so the handiwork won't really show, but I have a hard time half-assing things.

Once the tool shed was painted, I moved the sprayer into the furthest new-addition bedroom, and shot it completely. I started with the closet and then the ceiling. Then, I shot the window frames and finally the walls and baseboard, working my way towards the doorway. This kept the paint hose from hitting freshly painted walls or trim, and the sprayer in one spot for the duration of that room. Once the rest of the room was done, I moved the sprayer into the next bedroom and shot the doorway and the door. Last, I cracked the large window to let some fresh air in.

 

front living room shot

I sprayed the next bedroom following the same pattern: closet, ceiling, window frames, walls and baseboards. Again, I backed my way out of the room, moved the sprayer and then shot the doorway and the door. I continued this pattern, backing down the rear hallway, shooting the ceiling, then walls before moving the sprayer into the one original bedroom. Unlike the other 2 bedrooms, I decided that shooting the window frames early effectively restricted the amount of light I had to work with. So, I shot the window frame after I did the baseboards. Similar to the other rooms, though, I left the space around the doorway for after I moved the sprayer, and shot that area last. After cracking the window, I hit the hallway, turned off the furnace, removed the thermostat and then shot the hallway, avoiding the cold air intake.

 

At this point, it was past 430PM, so twilight was setting in. Without meaningful light, my shoot was done for the day. So, I popped the thermostat back in, turned the furnace on and cleaned up the sprayer for the night.

 

Second Verse, Same as the First

main room, start of day 2

When I returned the following morning, I walked the area which needed to be painted. The furnace was not 100% covered yet and in the middle of the main space Boo and I had set out all of the built-in drawers and the pieces of my desk to get painted with the rest of the house. Navigating these items while shooting the ceiling was not a good idea. So, I moved the drawers, desk cabinets and shelving into the front bedroom to get shot. Next, I looked at the ceilings; we had not quite finished washing all of it, so I TSP'd a section. Last, the doorway into the partially demolished kitchen was unimpeded. Everything that had been setting in the main room for our workday comforts (camping chairs, snack cooler, etc) were in the kitchen too. So, I added overlapping plastic sheeting over the doorway, so overspray would not blow onto our creature comforts.

Ready for another shoot, I donned the old white overalls, wrapped my head with a white T-shirt, set up the sprayer and got after it. I started with the walls around the furnace, so I could unmask and re-start it at the earliest moment. I moved through the space anti-clockwise, shooting the eating nook first, then the main living space and finally the den-like area directly rear of the living room. Satisfied, I moved the sprayer into the front hall and shot the drawers, etc set up in the front bedroom, completing the spray. End-to-end, it was probably around 6 hours of shooting plus a few hours of cleaning / prep on the second shoot day.

 

Clean Your Tools

main living space complete

To clean the sprayer, I put about 2 gallons of water into a clean 5 gallon bucket. Before I dropped the sprayer pickup tune into it, I hosed the pickup tube off with the garden hose. Now somewhat clean, I put the pickup tube into the water and the priming hose back into the paint. I primed the machine until water was coming out the priming hose, and then I shifted that hose into a recently emptied 5 gallon now-slop bucket. I continued to prime until the priming hose was running clear. Then, I switched over to "sprayer" from "prime" and did the same thing: shot into the paint (reversed the tip) until it started to get watery, then switched over to the slop bucket. Once the gun was shooting mostly clear, I shut things down, released the pressure and took the pieces into the garage sink for cleaning. Since most of the paint was already run out, cleaning with running water and soap was relatively quick. Paint needs warm air, so I set the furnace to run the fan all night and I left the box fan running as well, to help speed the drying.

 

Strip, Lights

further room done

Boo and I returned the following day and started pulling the masking off. For me, the most important thing was that we didn't have many thin or bare spots. I only found one 2-foot by 3-foot bare spot on one ceiling, and I decided to fix it with a flat-nap roller rather than pull out the sprayer. Otherwise, the coverage looked good. Sure, there were some heavy spots, and I attribute that to the hard-to-see from lack of light. Regardless, we pulled the paper and film from the windows, light fixtures and floors, rolling it into a big puffy pile as we went. We discovered some spots where the tape did not hold, allowing for paint to get on the floors, but overall, the finished product looks really good. Once the paper was up, I cleaned each light fixture and mounted it, with bulbs.

This was a huge milestone. With the interior of both the house and the tool/parts shed painted, we can start moving non-essential things (like Nemo, the Audi A4 B5) over to the NewOldHouse. Nemo drove over with no issues, by the way. We need to source, paint, measure, cut and install 1-inch quarter round pretty much everywhere the new painted baseboard approaches the wood floor, though. If you look at these couple of pictures, you can see the gap. I expect we will be doing the 1/4-round a room at a time so it doesn't become a huge undertaking. Of course, at one room at a time, it could take quite a while to complete. Once we do it, I'll post on how we went after it.

 

Because moving is really only interesting to the person who is moving, I won't post on it. If something else happens that might actually be interesting, I'll post on it. Otherwise, until after the move, thanks, as always, for following along-

If It Doesn't Move, Paint it (Part 2)

Continuing the journey of getting our new space ready for moving in, we completed the painting of  exterior... so today's post covers that.

But First, Cars

Me, Joe and the truck

Boo and I took an evening off from the house repairs to help our friend Joe. Joe is partway through an engine replacement on a 90's Ford pickup truck, and since I can't really get into any of my projects out of fear of them becoming such a time-suck the house move/swap timing is jeopardized... I got my car-fun in helping out a friend. All we got done in a couple of hours was the install of the power-steering pump, the A/C pump and the serpentine belt, but those are 3 fewer things for Joe to do on his own, so it's a win. I expect we'll be over there again sometime soon to help through the next step, whatever that is.

Caulk

Like so many jobs, I started so optimistically. I thought I could get the caulking done, quick-mask and start shooting in one week. Well, that didn't quite work out. I was able to get the caulking done around work obligations during the week, but I did not anticipate the need to prime the bare wood spots. For caulking, I simply hit every seam between the windows and the siding. Many of these seams were in fair condition, and were still holding after the power-wash and scraping. Still, I ran a thin bead anyway. With a gloved hand, I then ran a finger on the bead of caulk to set it into the gap and flatten it tight against the joining surfaces. This assures a good seal.

Prime

you're not blurry. I was

Boo went to get us some paint and learned from the paint guy that no matter what it says on the 5-gallon tub or on the manufacturer's website, paint needs primer to work best. The stuff that says "self-priming" is really just a marketing shtick. I figured that the paint guy could have been trying to up-sell, but after the Zed painting experience, I was willing to accept paint needs primer. So, we grabbed a 5-gallon of Kilz interior/exterior primer and some brushes.

Ready to start, Boo wisely asked "should we wash the house again first?". When we bought this fixer, the house next door was ALSO sold as a fixer and they had been generating lots of dust clearing their lot. That dust was now a heavy coat on our house. So, with the pressure sprayer full of house-wash soap and a pressure-nozzle on the garden hose, I spent Saturday morning washing the house.

Fortunately, we have been enjoying some late-Summer-like warm dry sunny weather so while I was washing one side of the house, the side I just washed was quickly drying. Once I was done, I switched to brushing the Kilz.

I simply brushed primer everywhere I could see wood. Unfortunately, for some areas that was practically the entire thing. The window frames were especially in-need. I found that the areas which were facing direct sunlight, but had not completely peeled were very paint-thirsty, sucking up a brush-load of paint in just a few inches. We pressed on and by the middle of the following day (Sunday) we had it all primed.

Mask

masked, garage needs primer

While Boo finished the last of the priming, I shifted to masking. The plastic folded film makes masking fairly easy: pick an orientation that allows you to use the least amount of material... line it up so the amount rolled out is wider than you need and cut. Lay the top edge of the plastic against the shorter length of the area you are masking (like a window frame) and tape to the edge, leaving the tape edge far enough from the edge of what you are painting so you get paint everywhere you want it. Then, unfold the sheet. It will cling to the window, so it should not become unwieldy. Once the far edge has been reached either fold back under or cut off the excess. I will usually clean-tape the first edge and work my way down the sides with tape on my way to the final edge. Then, I tape that final edge.

It is a small house, so masking the windows only took me the better part of an afternoon. I completed the task by masking off the gas and electric meters, as well as the water taps. I did not intend to paint the front door trim with the sprayer, so I simply hug some plastic to avoid getting overspray near it. In the picture above, you can see the masked front exterior. Boo primed that garage door after I took the picture.

Shoot

A few weeks ago, Boo and I hit Harbor Freight with a 20% off coupon, so I got one of these for 20% off. Winning. I got a 20-inch tip extension and an extra, smaller tip (which I didn't use). Then, last weekend, Boo picked up some basic white interior/exterior eggshell latex paint. Once the house was ready, I left work early (3PM) Tuesday to get the paint sprayer assembled and primed with water, so I could get a handle on using it. Assembly, priming and getting a feel for it with water took 30 minutes. Once it was ready, I readied the workspace with a 5-gallon of exterior paint, a long extension cord and a drop-cloth. We have a limited number of outlets with the grounding plug, so the biggest challenge was routing electrical so I could keep shooting. The actual sprayer worked great. The coverage was consistent, and while I kept the pressure on it's lowest setting, I still had a paint fan wide enough to completely cover 2 boards of wide siding in a single pass. I did not suffer much over-spray either.

painted

The shoot started around 4PM and took about 90 minutes. To clean up, I put a couple of gallons of water in a spare 5-gallon bucket. I pulled the draw hose out of the paint, wiped the excess paint off and dropped it into the water. I sent the priming overflow into a waste bucket and primed the pump with water. Once the overflow was running cloudy water, I switched from the prime to the spray setting, running the sprayer tip into the waste bucket. I would check the water:paint by spraying onto the dead grass, looking for how white it was. Once it was cloudy water, I shut it down, took it apart and took the hoses and sprayer bits to a sink for more cleaning. I spent, probably, 45 minutes in-total getting the equipment clean and then left it all soaking in soapy water for a final rinse and re-assembly the next day.

The masking is still in place. We will be taking a more in-depth walk-about, looking for thin spots before pulling the masking down. We did walk the work after it was shot, while it was still drying, and it looked very promising. Since the last sections were still very wet, it was hard to determine the quality of the coverage. I hope we will determine the coverage good enough to warrant brushing any thin spots so we can pull the masking and start thinking about the interior paint.

That's it for today. Thanks, as always, for following along-

Zed Body Kit Start

Last Summer, amid the economic restart following the CoViD-19 shutdowns, I ordered and received a fiberglass bodykit for a Datsun 280ZX. It arrived too late to be wrapped into the body work, and I ran out of warm weather anyway. Today, I restart the body work on Zed (1979 Datsun 280ZX), with hopes for having Zed painted before I run out of summer this year. Even though there is considerable Summer left, my time is less available this year than in years past. Boo has injured her arm/shoulder, preventing her from moving it per Dr orders, so I am doing a lot more not-car stuff these days (read: lawn care, housework, etc) which all take precious minutes. 

Back to Start

bumper gap set

While Zed was parked under a canopy / car port all winter, that is not the same as sitting in a climate-controlled garage. Or even an unheated garage. Rain does not fall straight down, and wind blows organic material around. So, when I was ready to focus on Zed, I had a few steps to just get him back to where I had left him last Summer. I had been using his interior as a staging area for parts and boxes while working on the sound/noise contain effort in Hapy (1972 VW camperbus). So, logically, the first thing to do was to vacate the interior and shop-vac it out.

Next, the body panels needed a cleaning. Rather than use a hose, I hand washed him with a bucket and scrubber sponge. Still, I was unable to free some of the green haze that had appeared. He would need a sanding in order for the next layer of paint to adhere anyway, so I left what remained to be addressed by the sanding. I pulled out the body kit that had been stashed inside and cleaned it too.

Front Fenders

d-side bumper

I had spent some time wrangling the front bumper last Summer. I could only get so far because I had not completely solved for the fenders yet. Now that the driver fender was ready, I could move forward. I started by simply mounting the fenders with M6 stainless bolts. When I fastened the bottoms, the fenders ballooned out into their proper shape. I had not realized how flat they had been sitting until then.

Rear Bumper

The rear bumper was the closest to being complete, and after spending so much time on just getting things back to the way I thought they were, I wanted a win. I started fiddling with it and I discovered that I had not really prepared the steel rear bumper hidden within: it had rust spots on it and it was still dirty from when I bought it. More cleaning with a bucket and a scrubber and then sanding, rust treatment and a shot of Rustoleum got it ready enough for use. No, I don't really like the idea of Rustoleum on this project anymore than I think you do, but this will protect the bumper well enough, and once I sand a key into it for the epoxy to grip into, the paint choice really won't matter much anymore. After the paint cured (or 48 hours later...), I re-attached the bumper, making sure the height was completely flat, with the same distance between the tail body panel and the top of the bumper. It is into things like this that so much time is lost. Bolting on a bumper takes, like 10 minutes. Getting it exactly height-right, took more like 30.

p-side bumper

Once the steel bumper was set, I returned the fiberglass bumper to position to get it exactly where I wanted it. After some time spent fiddling with it, I was able to set the bumper such that the gap is the same across the rear, from corner to corner, and the seams along the rear quarter panel were consistent as well. I drilled a hole inside each wheel well near the top of the bumper and set it for good with a pair of M4 bolts. With the height set, I set the spread (tilt in or tilt out of the bottom of the bumper) of the lower edge. I controlled this with a second set of holes lower in the panels. Again, I set 2 M4 bolts through the bumper into the rear wheel well. I may eliminate some of these bolts later, after the epoxy sets.

Side Skirts

setting the spread

With the rear bumper looking good, I shifted forward to the little skirtings that run under the doors. I was not 100% convinced these were necessary when I bought the kit, but now that I have them roughed in, I like them. These kits are one-size-fits-none. While that was not really true with the rear bumper, it was definitely true with these side skirts. The length is quite good, and the fit into the wheel wells was almost perfect. I say almost, because I had to cut a small chunk out of the top of the passenger side skirt for it to fit. The issue with these skirts is with the little lip that runs the length of the door jam. These are designed to sit on the outermost edge of the door threshold, but the design has 2 problems. First, the lip is fairly thick so the door does not easily close on top of it, if the door is set at the right height. Second, and perhaps more important, the lip is not at the correct angle from the outer edge of the skirting. So, if you set it in place on that outermost edge, either it is in the right spot, but completely blocks the door -or- the whole skirting curls under the car too much, not aligning with the fender lines and looking horrible. I resolved by cutting off the lip with a hacksaw. Yes, that is a rather destructive move. I considered all the plastic panels on the ToyoTruck and the panels that run under the doors do not have a lip hanging on the door sill. These will now be a same.

fun with Bondo

With the lip removed, I was better able to control the angles. Similar to how I managed the rear bumper, I first set the height by getting the under-the-door edge just a smidge below the door opening. I set the height temporarily with clamps and then bored holes, used more M4 bolts to hold the tops in place.  I added a bolt on each side, near the leading edge of the door, to hold the section of the skirting which will attach to the front fender in place. I will use this bolt for setting the epoxy, but will remove it, or cut the head off, after the epoxy sets. Next, I set the spread so the rear outer edges aligned with the rear bumper lower leading edges. Because of how the skirts were constructed, this left a small gap at the top rear of the skirt. If I pressed the top against the side of the car, the bottom of the skirt would stick out too far. The picture below shows how it lined up. Because of the curve of the body, it is not immediately visually clear that the bottoms align, but they do. 

Body Fill the Gaps

d-side skirt rear

Around the internet, Bondo is a four-letter word. No one admits to using it, but practically everyone does in some capacity. If I were a master fiberglass guy and had all the time in the world, I might have built-up the trailing edges of the side skirts with fiberglass. That would have been the "right" way to do it. I don't have that skill, nor the materials, and, like I indicated at the top, I really don't have that time. So, I chose Bondo, and went full-on ShadeTree with it.

I have the panels attached exactly where I want them, held on with bolts. I don't want to remove them apply some material grind some down, re-attach, wash-rinse-repeat, in hopes of getting it right. That could take all Summer and still might not look that great. I want to apply filler to the fiberglass but not create a Bondo-bond with the side of the car. To resolve, I grabbed some non-stick spray from my kitchen and shot the steel body panels where I needed to fill a gap. I then cleaned the fiberglass with oil/grease cleanser, leaving the non-stick on the steel and I filled the gaps with Bondo. Is this how a pro would do it? I sincerely doubt it. Did it work? It worked well enough to define the lines. Once teh Bondo set up, I freed the panels, leaving them loosely attached. There was not any Bondo stick to the steel. I sanded things smooth and did another pass to get the seams really clean. Last summer, I tried to resolve the don't-stick by taping plastic to the steel, but no matter how well I set the plastic, there were minute folds which appeared in the dried Bondo. The non-stick spray left a predictably smooth line.

Sanding

body sanding fun

I re-attached the rear bumper and the side skirts after sanding the Bondo smooth. Then, I set into sanding the entire car with 320-grit. As I mentioned above, simply cleaning the body was not enough. Besides, I chose to not sand the primer last year, believing it would better protect the paint over the winter. It needed to be sanded before the next coat, be it more primer or color. I will be priming the fiberglass body panels anyway, so I may shoot primer on the rest. I'll decide that later.

I am about 2/3 done with the sanding of the whole body (fiberglass and steel), working from the rear forward. Once the sanding is complete, I will be setting the height of the front bumper ends, and perfecting the front bumper seams like I did with the rear bumper and side skirts. After all that, the fiberglass will be removed one last time for priming.

That's it for today. Thanks, as always, for following along-

Zed's Slow Crawl into Fall

It's time for another update on the slow-moving restoration effort on the 1979 Datsun 280ZX lovingly called "Zed". Completely unrelated to Zed, Nemo, the 1997 Audi A4 was sold to a family friend. While he is no longer a permanent resident of our driveway, I expect there will be some ShadeTree adventures as he is improved upon.

Where Were We

p-side front fender gap

We entered the Summer with the goal of having Zed painted before the weather changed from warm-dry to cold-wet. Some years, that change happens as late as Halloween. Other years, like 2019, we lose the end of August to things like wildfires or an early rainstorm. With such a wide range for when the end date might hit, I worked a bunch in the early Summer to set myself up for paint. This year, we have had multiple "false-fall" weather periods, and this week looks like solid rain, leading me to believe that the goal will not be reached.

Recall, we hit a snag with CoViD-19 related manufacturing delays on the body kit. I ordered the kit in May, and it delivered in August. During the delay, I perfected the body as best I could, got the final primer shot and clowned on other cars while I waited. Once the kit arrived, I let it sit in the sun on my deck for a couple of weeks to complete the off-gassing while I took a few camping trips. Of course, sitting outside like that allowed the various pieces to get dirty and have nature fall on then, so they are not as pristine-looking as they were on delivery day. Regardless, they need to be sanded, and primed at minimum before painting, so this just added a cleaning step before the sanding.

Front Bumper

d-side front fender gap

To prepare for the front fiberglass bumper install, I first needed to expose the steel bar wrapped inside the chrome and rubber bumper originally installed on Zed. I had removed the bumper, brackets and all, earlier for access to the radiator supports for primer shooting. The bracket-to-body bolts are 17mm, and there are 4 per side. The bracket-to-bumper nuts are 14mm, and, again, there are 4 per side. I addressed the surface rust on the brackets, shot them with the same finish primer and set them aside.

The original / stock bumper cover is held on with a myriad of bolts and screws. The (10mm?) bolts removed easily. The screws were so rusted on, I had to cut them off with a grinder. Once the steel bar was exposed, I could start test fitting the bumper. I spent a while just fiddling with it: setting it on, tilting it at various angles, etc until I could see how I wanted it. I temporarily mounted the front bumper brackets and the steel bar next, and sat the bumper cover on top. The original location of the bar was 1.5" too far forward.

To recess the front bumper, the gas in the mounts needs to be released, and then the bracket pushed backwards into itself. To release the gas, the steel bar needs to be removed and then a Phillips bolt head is exposed. Remove the bolt, and the gas is released. Then, push the end in. I measured the 1.5" and marked it so I knew when I had it in the right spot. At first, the brackets did not want to compress, even with the gas gone. I encouraged them with a rubber mallet and pushed until the bracket compressed to my mark.

Once compressed, I re-attached the steel bar, and then set the new bumper cover on the bar. This time, it set exactly right, though the ends initially appeared much wider than the fenders want to sit (witness the top two pictures). After about an hour of fiddling with it I found that when the ends of the fender rotated upwards (and the fiberglass shifted left-right a little bit, the steel bar readjusted, etc), they were much closer. Still, actual mounting to the fenders will wait until I have the fenders secured firmly. The fender bolts, like most of the others, have disappeared. The internet thinks these bolts should be M6x1, but I could not even start threading that size. They are also not M5x.8 as those fall right through. I tried generic slotted #12-24 machine bolts next since they are effectively "M5.5", though they also fell straight through. I will return to the M6 bolts and see if I just gunked up the threads with primer. Anyway, with the bumper in place, I can see that I will need to open up the turn signal indicator holes a little bit to allow for the lenses and bulbs to be maintained without removing the bumper. Also, I expect there will be some shaping needed where the hood opens since the bumper is 1.5" deeper.

Rear Bumper

The original rear bumper was the only real rust on this car, which is why we tossed it. I sourced a replacement bar and rear mounts from our friend in Hillsboro. After addressing the surface rust on the brackets similar to the front brackets, I acquired nuts to mount the brackets to the rear (M10x1.25) and attached them. I needed a washer between each of the outer holes on the mounts and the body to angle the mounts inward enough to fit the rear bumper. Onto the brackets, I set the steel bar and test fit the rear bumper. Again, the bracket pushed the bumper out too far to fit. So, I repeated the gas-out process, pushing the rear bumper in an inch. Unlike the front, the rear bumper does not provide an easy means of getting your fingers on the mounting nuts and studs. But, with some perseverance, I got one nut on each side so I could see how it set. As good as the front looked, the rear looked even better. The kit snugged into the body contours, as you can see in the picture below.

Setting the Gaps

p-side rear alignment

When C bought this car, it had been messed up by the prior owner in 2 ways. First, he stripped the interior in the interest of saving a few pounds because he wanted a drift car. Second, he drifted the car into something or someone, damaging the driver door and front fender. We replaced the front door with a donor from WA, but tried to straighten the fender. Off the car after many days of working on it, the fender looked great. Once I re-mounted the doors, hood and rear tailgate, however, the gap between the leading edge of the driver door and the trailing edge of the fender could not be resolved. The edge along the front valence (in front of the windscreen) and above the door also did not line up well. The fold in the driver-side fender had erased the trailing edge and attempts to re-establish it by my amateur hands did not get it there. The image below shows how far off the fender-to-door gap is; the misaligned edge above the door is slightly visible. The passenger side, however, gapped perfectly, with about 1/4" along all of the seams of both the door and the fender so I have a target for the driver side. I spent a couple of hours shifting the door around and improved the gap at the top, but the long edge between the fender and the door could not be resolved. I did not reproduce that edge on the fender quite right.

The efforts to straighten the driver fender has been instructive, but, I will be replacing it. Unfortunately, these panels have not been produced in years, so I needed to find one from a donor car and the one I found is not dent-free. Fortunately, the edges are perfect and it aligns properly with the hood, bumper and driver door. So, once the dents above the wheel well are coerced back into place, the panels will be right. I will then set the driver-side gaps so we have a solid base for the kit. Then, I'll finalize the placement of the bumpers.

Bumper Plan

Both the front and the rear bumper will require a little bit of fit and finish. The rear aligns very well, with only some small smoothing needed to achieve the line I am looking for. The front may require more, even after the fender fit has improved, the gaps are larger. I will see how much this gap closes once I send a couple of screws through. I expect I will need to add material to the inner edges of the bumper along the fenders to make it look right. Once I have the front and rear looking as I would like, I will shift to the two side panels that run under the doors between the wheel wells and then priming the kit.

I do not intend to seal the seams between the fender/quarter panels and the front/rear bumpers. Instead, I intend to have a clean, visible, seam line. This way if there is some kind of damage to the fiberglass from parking curbs or a small accident, the repair will not have to extend past that seal line. This also gives me the opportunity to try mixing flex additive into the fiberglass bumper paint. The "flex additive" increases the paint's willingness to bend without cracking. If I sealed the seam and painted the body as a whole, that flexing additive would need to be part of the paint on the seal or further up fender/quarter panel paint. Otherwise, there could be cracking at the seam, forcing the repair into the steel. This way, the bumper can be removed, repaired/replaced, painted and installed.

What's Next

The ultimate question remains: will the car get through paint before the weather changes? No, but I would rather have it look right than be hurriedly finished. First, I need to get the driver fender replacement undented and prepped. Then, I will get the body kit fitting completed with mounting holes drilled, etc. This would allow me to finish the kit separately (clean, sand, Bondo, sand, clean, possibly high-build primer, sand, clean, finish primer, sand, clean, paint) and then mount it when it's ready. I don't expect a weather miracle that would allow me to get all the way to the end of that task list, though. I expect the weather will turn for good before I'm through primer. Actual paint on the body and the kit will have to wait until next year.

Thanks, as always, for following along-

Zed Primed Again

I get that this is becoming almost comical in how cyclical the priming on Zed (1979 280ZX) has been. Today's post is another "Priming the 280ZX" posting. As much as I would like to say it is the last, I know there is one more primer shooting day coming, when the body kit arrives.

I did this work around another heat wave here in the Pacific NorthWest with temps pushing 40*C (104*F) at the peak. I spread out the final prep work over the full day Saturday and shot the primer Sunday morning. All of the other final sanding was after work in the heat of the day the week prior, causing me to literally pour sweat. Anyway, off we go.

Why More Primer

First, the obvious question... why more primer? For starters, this shoot was black 2k primer intended as the final coat of pre-paint. Hi-build primer can absolutely be your last coat of primer. In the reading I have done, many people have had great success with shooting their base/color coat(s) on top of the hi-build. I decided that I wanted a harder shell underneath the base than the hi-build provided. Also, the primer immediately under the paint is what is exposed when you get a rock chip. I think the light grey would show more than the black. Consider too, the color of your primer has a subtle impact on the color of your base coat, unless you put extra coats of color on to cover that. I felt that the black undertone beneath the gun-metal grey would darken the grey. Last, through the final rounds of Bondo, I sanded through to bare metal in a few spots. Those, at least, needed priming.

Preparation is Key

If you have read any of the posts about my efforts on Zed, this section is probably moot. Still, it is worth underscoring the importance of getting the panels as flat and straight as you can before you start spraying. Why? Because the paint is a very thin film of color laying on top of whatever your body shape is underneath. So, if it is lumpy, bumpy, or even deep scratched, it will show through. I performed many rounds of Bondo application and sanding, each time getting a little better at it, and each time getting the panels that little bit nicer. My final process has proven effective: mix a small batch (250ml / a US cup or so), applying slightly too much Bondo to the imperfection area on one pass (and don't touch it once it's applied), sand with less coarse paper (150 grit) for shaping and 400 for smoothing, and last, circle issues for further repair with chalk. This worked for me, and would probably work for others. The higher grit number means you use more paper and it takes longer to get the shape. I hand-block rather than use a DA orbital sander, which is additionally slower. I found this to be a fair price to avoid over-sanding.

Once sanded and smooth, the dust needs to be removed. Pigpen, my shop vacuum, is relatively effective at removing dust. The dust is so fine and Pigpen is so old that dust finds its way around the filter, creating a small cloud of dust around the canister (hence his new name of Pigpen, from Peanuts). I followed the vacuum with blowing compressed air on the panels (after the dust cloud passes) and then I set up for shooting. Since this shoot included the insides of the hood, tailgate and doors, there was considerably more prep than the last few cycles. I repaired the masking at this point as well.

For this spray session, I also prepared the hinges. I started with spray cleansers, but found they were not efficient with the 40 years of grease embedded in the hinge works. So, I grabbed a bucket, tossed in a dishwasher detergent pod and dropped the parts on top. I filled the bucket with a garden hose and then moved the parts around with a pry bar. I let the parts sit for an hour or so, agitating the bucket or moving the parts with the prybar periodically. I drained the dark grey wash water and rinsed the parts with the hose. All of the grease was completely gone.

Set Up

With the panels off the car, I need a wide area to shoot everything. I use a second carport space, laying a big blue tarp down as a floor. This keeps the dust away and protects the driveway. Onto the tarp, I arrange the panels to I can easily move from one to the other without drooping my air hose onto wet paint nor creating a weird maze to navigate while trying to spray. Once arranged, I blew off the panels again with compressed air and then cleaned the panels with oil/grease cleaner (Oil Eater). I do one last check, by holding the air hose and walking the area, making sure I can get to everything.

I have gotten relatively quick at getting the gun ready now. The 2k primer is a 4:1 mix. So, for a 20oz ($20US<) Harbor Freight purple gun that means 16oz:4oz of paint to reducer. I pulled a clean pickle jar out of my glass recycling to use as a mix jar. With a measuring cup and water from the kitchen, I marked a 16oz line and a 20oz line on the jar. My process was to pour in 16oz of primer to the first line and then add reducer to the upper line. A quick mix, and pour into the gun and I was ready to go. Doing it this way gave the air compressor time to catch up to me.

The Shoot

I checked my spray fan against some of the masked off glass, as well as the underside of the hood (it was flipped upside down so I could shoot that side first). With a decent fan, I started shooting around the radiator support first. I figured if there were any mishaps, better they happen in an area that will be almost completely hidden from view later. There were no real issues. I had a few "tiger stripes" where the gun would sporadically not produce a paint fan... resulting in what looks like a tiger stripe. I believe this could be attributed to either too much air pressure or a crappy gun. I will recalibrate for the next shoot. Overall, though, the primer laid down very well. Once all of the undersides were done, I sprayed out the rest of that batch and flipped the doors, hood and tailgate over. Then, I shot them. One thing I did this time was take advantage of the 1/2 squeeze on the trigger to blow air: If you press the trigger halfway, compressed air comes out, but the opening isn't big enough to pull paint. So, I was able to quick-blow the panel immediately before spraying. This trick will be more useful with the color, but it was good to practice it.

After I was done, and the primer all dry, I looked back over the spots where there were significant Bondo sections (again, not thick, just a wide area) and they look very good. Even the middle of the hood, where all eyes will be most of the time, the center ridgeline is exactly centered and looks just as I intended.

The pictures on the right show the before and after of the passenger rear quarter panel. I think they show how careful work can produce some pretty great results. I really like the satin glow. It shows the body contours very well, allowing me to look for remaining imperfections fairly easily when compared to the hi-build which sat flat. Everything looks pretty amazing to me, and I do not intend to pursue any additional rounds of Bondo on these panels nor the main shell. That is a huge milestone.

Next Step Musings

I am still waiting for the arrival of the body kit that I ordered in June. This is not a supply chain issue, really, it is about a manufacturer getting their business back operational after a CoViD shut down. I understand that my kit has been produced and is in transit. Depending on timing, I may 400-grit sand what I just shot and then plan for base coating the areas which are going to be either under the kit or under other body panels (like, maybe paint the front supports for the fenders, for example). I know I want to do those on a different day than the rest of the body, but I don't know how far ahead I want to get without the body kit in-hand. I understand that these kits are really one-size-fits-none-perfectly. So, there will probably be some shaping at least. Regardless, these kits need to be minimally surface sanded to remove the gel coat for paint to adhere. Last, I have read some advice about leaving newly formed fiberglass panels in the sun for a week so they get nice and warm help to complete their off-gassing / curing. Apparently, they will behave better over the long term if this is done. I recognize it sounds a little odd, but this came from someone who does these body kits all the time, so I'll trust it. If the kit arrives soon, I should still have time to finish the prep and paint before the weather turns... assuming the weather stays warm/dry until the middle of October like it usually does/used to. If necessary, I will switch it up and paint everything I can, leaving the body kit for next year.

Anyway, that's it for today. Thanks, as always, for following along--

Shade Tree Set-up

I received questions about what "Shade Tree" is and what my set up is. I figured, since I am still completing Bondo cycles on Zed, the 1979 Datsun 280ZX, I would post some pictures of my space. Since I am approaching the end of the Bondo cycles, I'll share what I have learned as well.

Zed Bondo Update

Yes, I am still doing cycles with Bondo, but I am much closer to complete. I have learned a few things the long-hard way. I hope these are helpful so you don't make the same errors I did (and sometimes still do). It took me many many hours of failures to learn this, though I am sure there are folks reading this who knew all of it already.

Let's start with how to discover a spot that needs to be fixed. I started with feeling with my hands by moving them fast and slow over the paint-stripped body. A painted surface is much better for seeing issues, by the way. Once you find the spot, you need to determine how large a patch you need to lay for it to become flat. For that, I now use chalk, drawing a circle around the malformation. This allows me to easily spot where to slather on the Bondo without having to re-evaluate while the Bondo is mixed. That leads to my next learning: Bondo viability duration.

Bondo is only usable for a handful of minutes after the hardener has been mixed in. Some say 3-5 minutes. So, rather than making a big blob of it, I make multiple super-small batches. By super-small, I mean like up to a cup of Bondo at a time. From the can, I slap it onto a small sheet of glass for mixing with a spot of hardener that's maybe the size of a US$ dime (or smaller). Once thoroughly mixed into one consistent color, I go after the spots I have marked. I now apply more than what is needed to fill the imperfection as Bondo shrinks a little bit when it dries and you need something to sand away to get it perfect. Once the consistency of Bondo starts shifting from smooth-like-sour-cream to cakey-like-cookie-dough, stop applying it, toss it out and make more. Bear in mind, Bondo will adhere to bare metal and some primers, but not paint. So, your surface might need to be sanded down before you start applying.

This 2-step process is great for getting the area set up, but similar to "you can be a mediocre welder if you are a good grinder", the key to Bondo is sanding. I have tried all kinds of different things to get my panels smooth, and in many cases I removed too much, if I had even applied enough. Assuming I have enough Bondo, removing too much is the next issue. Rather than go through what hasn't worked, I'll focus on what has.... other than: do not use your hands/fingers if you want the contour to be correct. Use a block; you may think your fingers know how to find that flatness. They can sense it when you're checking your work, but they can't push sandpaper to it. Your car, your choice.

First, I have an 8" sanding block with a worn-out 400-grit paper on it. I cut down sheets of 150-grit so I can hold a square with my fingers around half of the sanding block. So, half of the block is 150-grit and half is 400. I try to keep the 400-grit side furthest from the target Bondo and the 150-grit side in the Bondo as much as possible. This way, I am not agro-sanding on areas of the body that are outside the Bondo, while also using that body contour to influence the cut-down of the Bondo with the 150-grit. Obviously, the 150-grit exits the Bondo area some, and it needs to, for feathering the edges. All the while, in the front of your mind know that you are attempting to get the dip-filled-with-Bondo to disappear so the panel is completely without blemish.

Sometimes, for an especially rough area, I will use a worn down piece of 80-grit instead of the 150 to get started. This is simply to accelerate my progress, and I'll switch back to 150 before I get too far. The 80 is just to take that top edge off so the 150 will bite a little bit more. 

Once I think I have the panel smooth, I will use the 400-grit block (without the 150 wrapped) and go over the entire area. Then, I will feel for edges and contour. If necessary, I'll return the 150-grit to half of the block and sand some more. Using 150-grit takes much much longer to sand than the 80-grit, but I have not over-sanded one area since I switched to the 150 as the main contouring grit. Your car, your choice.

Once I got the worst of it done, and many of my old areas corrected, I needed to check the work. So, I shot some automotive sand-able primer on the repaired spots as a guide coat. I would then sand these areas down with the block. I repeated the Bondo cycle where needed. Often, a small imperfection in the Bondo itself (like an air bubble) will force another cycle even if the overall panel is now flat.

At the time I took these pictures of Shade Tree, I had completed the doors and rear hatch. That's why they do not appear in the pictures; they are stowed in the garage until I'm ready with everything else (fenders, shell and hood). That's right; I do not intend to do any more Bondo cycles on those panels.

Shade Tree

I alluded to this concept in my last post. "Shade Tree" is where my kids and I (and anyone else, for that matter) hang out with our cars, making improvements or repairs. I added 2 10-foot x 20-foot Harbor Freight car ports last Fall to extend the car-play season into the rainy season. It turns out, these canopies have made summer car efforts much more pleasant as we are now in the shade. Between my smattering of tools, we can work on 2 or 3 cars at once, and with the lot couch and camping chairs, there's seating when you want to take a break. We have twinkle-light strung up to extend the work day past dark. This is especially useful between the Fall and Spring equinox here in the Pacific NorthWest when it feels like daylight only lasts a handful of hours.

There was a time when I wanted to rent a warehouse and make something like this available to the public. I thought of all the people out there in situations like I had been: using a curb as a ramp to change my oil, getting hassled by apartment management because I opened and then left my hood open to change sparkplugs, or imposing on a friend who had a driveway to do something, and then worrying about that coming between you. I know some folks who have a significant other who does not approve of the mess that is created during the work, so they don't work on their cars much anymore. That's just sad.

Owning a car is already expensive with insurance and fuel. When you add in having to take your car to a mechanic, even for simple things that you can do yourself... simply because you don't have a place to do it? Well, that makes owning a car a class thing, and that's not right. Sometimes, you simply need a car. Maybe mass transit doesn't get you to where you work, and paying to Uber or Lyft every day takes too much of your income. I know. I used to paint new-construction tract houses. By definition, there was no mass transit, because the new construction was going where there used to be a farmer's field. That's just one of 100's of possible examples for why we have our cars. And that was why I wanted to create Shade Tree. So we could keep our gotta-have-it cars running (and a place to clown on our projects) without the hang-ups. Unfortunately, this idea came right around the time that pot was legalized in Oregon, driving up the price-per-square-foot for warehouses almost overnight because the now-legal growers snatched them all up. I could not make numbers work so it could remain cost neutral, much less make any profit, without creating a cost structure that I wouldn't want to pay if I were a consumer. 

So, instead, I use my driveway.

That's it for this week. At my current rate of progress, I may be ready for the final primer as early as next weekend. I know I have many bits (hinges, mirrors, etc) to locate, prep and prime as well, but once done, we will be talking about base paint soon thereafter. Thanks, as always, for following along-