Tuesday, April 11, 2023

Hapy Lives Again

For the first time in maybe 8 months, I have a car-repair-based update. I got Hapy running again, so today's post covers that.

Flatbed Again
At some point, I would love to go back through all my pictures of Hapy, so I could identify how many times he has ridden on a flat bed home. I know he got a lift home from a few of the Eugene trips, many of the 4Peaks Festivals, and his most recent was the 500 feet from our old house to NewOldHouse. At no point have we ever questioned whether Hapy is "worth it". Hapy is a family member; we just do what needs doing. So, a few weeks ago when Hapy wouldn't start, he got towed to NewOldHouse (See Four-Wheeled Friends to NewOldHouse) and was dropped off alongside the attached garage. That was not his designated spot, however, so our friend John and I used many meters of chain to move him into position with a come-along. We wrapped a soft strap around a decent-sized apple tree at one end and another one around Hapy's front sway-bar (Hapy's front tow-hook was pancaked before he came to us, so I removed it). In between, we ran chain between the tree and the come-along in front of Hapy. In about 20 minutes we had Hapy on the tarped area with his tires sitting on the patio blocks beneath.

No Start Diagnosis
I started my consideration of the no-start issue without preconceived notions about cause. While intuition might be accurate, it can also send you down an unnecessary path. Still, I ordered a replacement rebuilt Bosch starter (from AutoHausAZ.com) so I would have it on-hand in case the starter proved to be part of the problem. The day after we left the old house for the last time, I headed out to Hapy with his ignition key. I wanted to refresh my memory of the sound when I turn the key. It was a metal-on-metal grinding. If you get a rur-rur-rur noise or no noises at all, it might be your battery needing a charge. The metal-on-metal indicated that the gear on the starter was not engaging with the gears on the flywheeel -or- the engine was seized and it was engaging, but unable to turn the engine. Our wet-crappy winter has been well documented, but we have not had deep-cold that would have foiled the anti-freeze, causing the block to fracture, though. There could have been other reasons for the engine to lock up, but I did not want to entertain those thoughts just yet. So, I ruled out the engine-broken possibility for the moment and looked at other things: namely, the starter was not engaging.

To look at the starter, I had to slide under the bus. Over the years, I have worked on Hapy out in the elements for practically the entire time I've owned him. Most of the time, he was parked on concrete or tarmac, so sliding underneath was a quick slide on a sheet of cardboard. Now, like a period of time in Lake Oswego, he is parked over dirt. In Lake Oswego, it was a dished out mud puddle, marking the absolute low for working conditions. Here, the ground is uneven and lumpy, with a rise just forward of the main crossbeam. With the rear anti-sway bar now installed, the space to access the starter was more difficult that some other times. Of course, with the tarp, rain can pool. To remedy, I swept the puddles off with a broom. So goes. One day, a garage, but at this point, I am looking forward to just a simple concrete pad.

Starter Not Engaging
which would you use?
Once I got under the bus, I figured there could be 2 possible reasons for the starter not engaging: starter bad OR starter not aligning (or both). Before I went hunting for tools, I tried to give the starter a wiggle and it shifted fairly easily by hand. So, of course, the starter would not engage: the starter would get triggered and the torque of trying to grab the flywheel would bump the starter, preventing the teeth from meshing. Because the TDI starter does not natively fit the 002 bellhousing, I purchased and then customized an adapter designed for a Vanagon. The starter was firmly attached to the adapter, but the adapter had loosened from the bellhousing. I hoped simply tightening the adapter would fix the issue, so I went hunting in the ToolShed for the Allen sockets and a matching ratchet.

In this moment, I really missed my black tool cabinet and was reminded of so many of my earlier efforts spending considerable time looking for tools. There was one effort back then where I dumped my toolbox contents on the driveway so I could find tools faster. I found myself growing frustrated with the current state and then embraced one of Boo's teachings: combat the frustration with gratitude. "How's that," you ask. I recognized that I was experiencing a true 1st-world problem and perhaps I could be grateful that I have so many things, I cannot find what I need. I could be grateful to have a dry locked space to keep my tools and parts so they don't get lost or stolen. I could be grateful for even having a vehicle to work on. Last, I do not need this vehicle to get to a job in the morning or get my kids from somewhere, adding stress; Hapy could sit like this for weeks and it would have no material impact on my life. The fact that he was broken down in my new yard rather than along a roadside somewhere was reason enough to be grateful.

Feeling re-centered, I found the #8 Allen (that fit the mounting bolts) and tried to tighten the adapter. The next attempt to start also resulted in the grind, but the engine turned a little bit. This told me 3 things: the engine was fine, the starter might still be the problem and the adapter may still be the root issue.

Starter Swapped
Before I went any further, I disconnected the battery positive cable from the battery with a 10mm socket. Then, with a pocket full of sockets, and corresponding ratchet with long extension, I supine army-crawled back under the bus. The main power cable is held to the front (front is front) of the starter with either a 12mm or 13mm nut. In the image above, you may be able to see that the old one was 13mm, the new one is 12mm. With the power cable disconnected, I unplugged the trigger signal by squeezing and pulling it off the tab. Last, I loosened and then removed the upper and then lower 19mm mounting bolts. With the old starter free, I could consider the adapter plate. I wanted to remove the bolts, put some thread-lock on and re-install. I was unable to find my tube of blue thread-lock, though. Believe me, I tried. Knowing the bolts could eventually work themselves loose again, I simply made sure they were tight. Even after my earlier tightening attempt, the upper adapter bolt had some room to fully seat. The upper starter mounting ear partially blocked that mounting bolt, though, so I really needed to get the starter all the way off before I could torque it down. When the day comes that I return to this with thread-lock, that upper bolt will need it.

I pulled out the rebuilt starter and compared it to the one I had just removed from Hapy. Note the picture above. The one I had removed (top of picture) was not as good a rebuild, at least cosmetically. The black paint was done after it was assembled, and got all over the place. The gear had some chips from the miss-starts and there was rust on the solenoid. Since the replacement in-hand was virtually perfect and cost around $160US (before core deposit), I was inclined to install it. Since I had to put a starter in at this point anyway, I put in the new one: main mounting bolts first (19mm), then the main power cable (12mm) and then the trigger wire (clip clicks in).

Hapy Starts and Runs Again
I put the main positive battery cable back in place and tightened it down (10mm). With hope in my heart, I jumped into the front seat and turn the key to "run". All of the expected lights came on, but I wondered if I had run the battery down with my prior start attempts. I turned the key to start, and Hapy fired right up, settling into an idle fairly quickly. I let him run for a few minutes to charge the battery back up before shutting him off.

I wanted to take Hapy for a drive but we have had considerable rain since I moved Hapy over to NewOldHouse. In fact, it rained while I was diagnosing and swapping the starter. The reality is that between Hapy's rear bumper and the street lies 20 meters of long grass in squishy soft earth. Simply put, I didn't want to get stuck. Well, the next day, Boo had ToyoTruck loaded with steel recycling and ran out of time to get the load to the recycler. I had to get to Hillsboro, so I took Hapy. As has become his norm, he fired up and drove great. We reversed over the soft earth without really making an indentation into the grass so my concerns may not have been warranted. Considering how badly that same ground got torn up by ToyoTruck, I love these Destination A/T Firestone tires (See Hammered Rims Part 3) on Hapy even more.

Because I have the luxury battery still in off-season mode (disconnected to retain the charge), the trip to Hillsboro was radio-less, but fun. His throttle responded well and the noise-killer I had installed last year really cuts down on the low-frequency noise. Because there were so many posts on and during the noise-reduction, I'll list them out below instead of putting them in-line like I usually do. There are leaks around the front doors, creating a pair of whistles, but overall the noise level is significantly reduced. As has been his behavior for as long as I can remember, the drive home was highlighted by something going wrong. This time it was a fail causing the cooling fans to stop. His temperature did not climb above 190*F, though. I had expected one of the wires had shaken loose on my spirited drive home, but after checking things with the multi-meter I found that wasn't the case. The main power run from the battery-top fuse to the relay was not sending juice all the way to the relay. Why? I had spliced a 4-inch section of wire at the end of one long wire and that splice had failed: I had voltage at the splice, but not at the female wire connector 4 inches later. I redid the connection with a new female connector and without the 4-inch section. The fans operate again. This serves as more evidence that using one single wire (of the right gauge) rather than splicing wires is better for longer term operability / maintainability.

That's it for today. I expect to return to unpacking/nesting or kitchen demo. While I was driving Hapy, I realized how much camping gear I had stowed in him. He is kind of a rolling shed, so I may unpack him a little bit so he can be a more viable, load-carrying-capable daily-driver... once I figure out where to put the gear. More first world problems, for which I can be grateful-

Thanks, as always, for following along-
 
Noise Deadening posts:
Hapy Noises (Part 1) - discussed materials 
Hapy Noises (Part 2) - more material discussion plus db level readings
Noise Control Update - applying the Constrained Layered Dampener (CLD)
Noise Control Continues - rear and mid interior deadened
Hapy Cab Gets Quiet - the cab gets the noise deadening treatment

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