Sunday, June 26, 2011

widiculously wonderful weekend weather

From my last post, you'd think I was nearly done with the accessory electrical stuff.  Well, just like everything else when you're working on old cars, there's always more to it than it looks on the surface.  I'll roll through my weekend in today's post, and you'll see what I mean.

Thank God It's Friday
I am fortunate to work at a company that has a "summer hours" concept.  "What is this 'sumer hours' of which you speak," you ask with curiosity.  Simply put, if you're done with your work for the week at noon on Friday (between Memorial Day and Labor Day), you can (and are encouraged to) leave.  "Zoiks!" Is what I said when I first learned of this perk.  I took the afternoon this weekend, but I didn't have much to show for it.  Or, maybe I did.  My internet was out when I got home, so I spent an hour or so banging my head against that (and the cable company operator).  I ran laundry while I was on hold, though, so the time wasn't completely wasted.  I got a service appointment for the following morning, and set to running errands.  I hit CostCo for the next month's food-stuffs, and O'Reilly's for more wiring bits.  Since I'd be waiting for the cable guy anyway, I figured I better have all my supplies ready.  When I got home, my internet was working (of course), so I cancelled the appointment.
 
Beautiful Day
June in Northwestern Oregon is usually rain-filled.  Portland has a big festival in the middle of the month that is usally peppered with rain.  In fact, a native Oregonian once told me "its not Rose Festival until the Rose Queen is crying in the rain".  Funny, yet twisted.  Still, he's right.  June is usually 20 days of rain and 10 days of threatening to rain, if not worse.  Summer may officially start on June 21st, but it doesn't start here until July 5th, at least weather-wise.  So, with that contextual backdrop, enter Saturday, June 25 2011.  72 degrees and sunny with a light breeze.  Abso-frickin-perfect weather.  With an open double-garage door, the commuter Jetta pulled back into the drive, tunes rolling, I set to knockin' that bus out.... until it was time to get my younger son (C) for the rest of the weekend.

Electric Feel
First, I figured I'd quick hammer-out the rest of the electrical stuff.  I ran another 12V accessory outlet next to the sliding door.  Reusing the original fire-extinguisher bolt, it is hidden from view, but easily accessible by either the rear seat (passenger side) passenger or from outside by just reaching in.  This will be handy when I tailgate with someone with a 12V blender.  Margarita's anyone? :)  The rest of the rough electrical was relatively quick-work too.  I left the ceiling wiring wrapped up out of sight for now, but tying those wires in will be easy work once I'm ready to install the cabinets.  The fusebox is wood-screwed into the top of the wood box / surround over the transformer.  The feed-side wires (14G each) are tied into their proper fuses, and at a reasonable length, keeping things a little clearer looking than the rat-nest of wires around the engine computer.  That harness cleanup is a project by itself.  I'll deal with that between camping and snow seasons.  I still need to mount the 12V plug by the passenger's visor, but I did tie-in the water pump and 12V accessory from the stove.

Living in Stereo
One of the components I've been wanting to install is my old Pioneer 10-disk CD changer.  I know, in this day of iTunes and MP3 players, why would I want to wire in some old-skool technology.  Simple, actually.  I'm a self-admitted Dead-Head.  I have many bootlegs on CD.  Ripping those CD's into MP3 or iTunes format is labor intensive, and usually requires re-tagging every track.  Yuk.  Also, bootlegs don't lend themselves to library-wide shuffles like my studio music does.  I don't have time to create special playlists either.  Honestly, I don't know who does, but that's a conversation for another day.  So, I'll be putting complete shows in the CD changer for when I need some Jerry-therapy, and the shuffle on my iPhone when I need random.
I spent more time than I expected trying to figure out where to put that thing.  Its kinda big (10.5" wide, 8" deep, 4" high).  First, I thought I could hide it under the dry-goods storage.  That would have been uber-clever.  I was thinking I could remove that little grille, and have the CD magazine reachable through that.  To make it work, though, I would have had to cut a hole in the floor of the cabinet, and it looked like the magazine would not have cleared the bottom of the grille-hole.  Sadness. So clever, but not reasonable.  Instead, it will fit perfectly in the false-floor I'm putting in the closet.  Not as clever, but clever enough.  Determining this was important so I could run the wires.  The power wires run from the rat-nest under the cabinets to the fuse box under the bed.  The signal wires run along the backside of the cabinets, through a hole in the steel behind the driver seat, and will run along the floor of the cab.  I don't know where the stereo-head will go, but I ran power wires from the fuse box towards the front as a part of the bundle from the CD changer.  I still need to run speaker wires through that hole and behind the cabinets, but once that's done, I should be ready for closing the walls.

She don't Lie, She don't Lie, She don't Lie..... Propane
Okay, that heading stretched the song-title metaphor a bit.  shrug.  Anyway, when I got the '79 interior a few years back, I got the gray bomb shaped propane tank with it.  I never connected it, nor installed it.  Instead, the stove was just a space-taker.  I pulled the old tank and lines out of the box, and looks into what it would take to install it.  My old '72 has those blasted belly pans under the sides of the mid-section, so I'd have to cut most of the passenger-side pan out to fit it.  Hmm...  Even if I cut out the pan, I can't tell if the cross-members are in the right places to bolt it on.  While I thought about it, I straightened the stove/sink unit so it was upright.  Then, I pulled the stiffer (inside bus) flexi-hose out of the box, connected it to the stove, threading it out the bottom hole where the waste water goes.  All of that fit well, and I now have a way of conecting low-pressure (post regulator) propane to the stove.

This is about where I ran out of time this weekend, so I put everything away, re-parked the Jetta, cleaned up and dashed off to get C.  We had a me-cooked dinner and watched "the Return of the King" together.  Perfect end to a pretty perfect day.

So, I still haven't test-fired the engine with the new harness.  Ideally, I'd have some way of pulling the exhaust out of the garage before I start the engine and perform all kinds of tests.  I'll think on that, but I need to at least verify that the original harness is good so I can return the borrowed one to Justin.  I should be able to get the computer into "run" position and verify the harness and the additional OBDII without actually starting the engine.  I'll try that this week.  As always, thanks for following along.

pictures-
top: power inlet. I didn't mention it, but I finished assembling this and installed it too.  It's wrapped in plastic film so my greasy mitts don't foul the paint.
middle: accessory fuse box test-positioning.  this is where it now lives.
bottom: looking down at the top of the 12V accessory plug near the sliding door (the bed is "open").

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

fused

I can't believe its been 10 days since I updated. There have been many nice days, and a few productive ones. I have been keeping a checklist of action so I can post. Before I get into it, I want to apologize to the folks who have commented on this blog who I have not responded to. I'm not all that great about posting, so just because I've now figured out how to deal with the comments, it doesn't mean that I'll be better about responding. I will try, though.

Fuse Box
After looking at different after-market and RV fuse boxes, I decided to go old-skool. I bought a VW bus fuse box off of TheSamba (www.thesamba.com/vw). I figured, it has 12 fuse locations, so, why not? After pulling out the extra relays (which I'll re-sell) and some of the wires, it's ready for re-purposing. For reference, I'm going to document my fuse assignments below.
There are a couple of interesting things to note about these boxes that I only figured out by digging into them this way. Some of the "supply-side" fuse locations are electrically connected. Obviously, this was by design, but if you're going to re-purpose a fusebox, you need to be aware of that. Also, some of the relay holes are sub-sized. this is again by design so a relay can only fit one way, but it makes "input" side decisions a little more limited.

FUSES
in - out - purpose
32 - 1 - cab, kitchen overhead lights
32 - 2 - OPEN
18 - 3 - stereo
06 - 4 - stove 12V plug
06 - 5 - overhead NAV 12V plug
14 - 6 - CD changer
30 - 7 - pop-top light
30 - 8 - OPEN
07 - 9 - OPEN
07 - 10 - slider 12V plug
02 - 11 - OPEN
02 - 12 - OPEN

I followed a simple rule of pairing circuits which wouldn't be used at the same time.

One thing to call out here is I'm re-using the old fridge electricals. Meaning, the city/battery switch, charging timer, fridge on/off switch all come into play. All of the circuits above will pull directly from the battery, except for the 2 dedicated to lights: 1/2 and 7/8. Those 2 inputs (32 and 30 respectively) will be fed by the wire that used to feed the fridge. So, the lights will have a main switch (fridge on/off switch), and will be capable of being fed directly from the shore power line. I don't know if it will really matter that much, but I think its important to remember. Since the battery charging mechanism feeds the accessory battery(s), everything will benefit from the shore power in some way.

Stringing Wire
The rest of my time these past few days has been pushing wire around. I mentioned a "NAV" 12V plug, for example. I'm putting a 12V accessory plug over the passenger-side sun visor so I can plug in my Garmin, string it across the top of my windscreen, and post it next to my rear-view mirror. This will keep the wires out of my line-of-sight while placing the NAV screen where my eyes will already be looking regularly. While switching the source to the accessory battery (reducing the risk to draining the primary if I left the NAV on by accident), this also leaves the original 12V cigarette lighter socket open. I had to run the wire for that from under the rear seat (where the fuse box is headed), into the driver-side cabinets, towards the rear and then into the headliner, all the way to the front passenger corner. The lighting wiring is in, and I started the CD changer and stereo wiring. I'll finish that up, with some speaker wiring following that, and then I should be getting ready to start re-assembling the interior.

That's it for today. I need to get back to the engine electrical stuff. I've been delaying that, waiting for a full workday window to work in. I think this Saturday will be my opportunity. Wish me luck starting it for the first time since mid-April with the now-repaired engine harness, additional OBDII plug and re-wired radiator fan circuit.

Sunday, June 12, 2011

looking up

Too many of my posts start with something about time. This one is one of those, unfortunately. With my nephew's first birthday party at cocktail hour and housework/laundry book-ending my day, I had a couple of hours in the middle. I made use of that time though.

All VW's mark their spot
I heard this saying from another bus driver a few years ago: all VW's mark their spot. Like a dog, it'll piddle a little bit to show where it's been. When I parked the bus, he marked a little bit and smiled and nodded. Yep, he knew it was home. Lately, I noticed that he's marked more. Since I needed to slide under to adjust the clutch, I figured I should stop the piddling before it got too deep.

Coolant Leak
One of the downsides of putting a radiator into an air-cooled vehicle is all of the coolant lines, etc are custom. There's no guarantee that anything I did will actually work. Once I got looking at the coolant lines, I realized that I only did "just enough" and never really finished. I mean, I didn't fast-mount the lines to the body, I didn't verify all of the connections, etc. This just underscores the importance of a good clean shop and a well organized project. Neither of which I had... or have. Instead, I fret, and do things over again. So, one of the hose clamps was too far away from the joint, causing the end of the coolant line to flex, creating a small gap for coolant to seep out of. Easy fix.

Wiring Re-wound
Some of the wiring for the radiator fans needed some attention too. The wire bundles were un-bundling, so I wrapped that up. Also, the main power routing to the fan relay had separated from the main B+ on the starter. Another simple fix. Messy though, cuz there was coolant leaked around there. Yuck.

Clutch Adjust
Last, I spent my remaining 30 minutes on adjusting the clutch. The wiring and the coolant line took nearly 90 minutes. Jeez. Anyway, I bought a new bowden tube yesterday, so the hardest part of this job was getting to the cable in the first place. I parked the bus about 6" from the wall along the driver side, so getting to anything under that side means some contorting is necessary. One thing I was reminded of was when the cable is disconnected from the clutch lever, the pedal drops to the floor... with an "oh crap" thunk. To get the cable to the clutch lever, you need to prop the pedal up. I used bailing wire because I couldn't find a bungee cord. Anyway, the new bowden tube fit right, and I used a thick and a thin washer at the clutch end. The clutch feels good now, but I'll only know for sure after I fire the engine and try it.

That's it for today. Stanley Cup Finals tomorrow, I have the boys on Tuesday, so I won't be doing anything until Wednesday night at the earliest.

picture:
old bowden tube on the left, new one on the right. You can see the old one was broken in 2 places. That probably shortened the life of my old cable, and part of the adjustment challenges.