In my last posts, I covered the hazardous re-assembly of the engine-to-transaxle and the install of the combined unit at 15*. Today, completes that journey. In order to do the re-assembly as quickly as possible, I tried doing it a little differently. I usually do system by system. This time, I did it based on where I was and did everything I could before I moved. I'm not sure I'll do that again, but it was interesting. I cleaned every part with brake cleaner before installing it. It made a world of difference, and I'll do that every time now. Handling a clean part is just so much better than the oily, greasy alternative.
Lower Right Rear
The exhaust-to-turbo mating has a gasket and 3 13mm nut/bolts. One mount is a stud coming out of the turbo. Because of the design, at least one of the 13mm needs to be tightened with a wrench instead of a socket. Next comes the intake system. Start with the non-charged air pipe from the air cleaner to the turbo. This is held on with 10mm bolts, and most of the work is from above rather than through the rear hatch. Next, the charged-air plumbing with the intercooler is most easily installed as a unit. Slide the turbo-end on first, then set the intercooler and complete the system to the intake last. The pipe clamps are a combination of slotted-screwdriver and 10mm socket. The intercooler is held in place with bailing wire (yes, bailing wire) looped between the mounting hole on the intercooler and the open loop in the engine mount attached to the engine. This allows for the vibration of the entire system to resonate as one. Route the vacuum to the turbo and snap it into the channels on the plastic tubes.
Lower Left Rear
Mount the nose of the transaxle. Plug in the reverse wires for the reverse light switch. Don't brain yourself on the radiator. Thread the short hollow tube to connect the gear selector at the front of the transaxle to the long gear shift tube coming from the front of the bus. Zip-tie the tube into place. I'm sure that last line will upset some purists (as if the whole project hasn't already), but the original bolt/nut solution falls out; the zip-tie doesn't.
Last, the battery is hooked back up. Before that, all of the electrical connections, including all sensor plugs should be double checked. This is where the "do everything you can see" model falls apart. By doing it one system at a time, you know everything was done. By working zonally, you don't really know for sure without checking system by system. At that point, you may as well have just done it that way.
This is the part everyone wants to jump to: grabbing the keys and giving a test fire. The first time I tried this time around, I got nothing: I'd failed to hook up the battery. Once resolved, he started right up. I applied the clutch and shifted through the gears. Nice and smooth. Seatbelt on, and on the road to test. There was less noise than I remembered. The gears shifted easily up through 3rd (never got to 4th), and the bus felt peppy. Overall, it was a great, albeit short, drive. I declare the bus road-worthy again. By the way, there wasn't a single drop of oil on the transaxle nor engine after the test drive and cool-down. Success!
Thanks for following along. Next time, I look at the ceiling of the bus and/or knocking the dents out of and painting the rear bumper.