Monday, January 18, 2010

Another small step

Sleep-overs. Single-parenting. Play dates. That's been the bulk of my time for the last week. I have been able to get a few hours here and there around the helicopter parenting, though. I made a little headway on the main coolant lines to the radiator, but, first, some research on galvanization. Like much of my forward progress, I can't seem to move forward without first wasting a day or so with a wrong path. I think that's part of the process, but the distillation of the completed work never fully reflects the amount of time spent doing it wrong a few times first.

Galvanization / Electrolysis
I did some research on galvanization / electrolysis and what affects different metals pose within a cooling system. Basically, if there is an electrical charge within the cooling fluid the weakest metal will start to pit. The electrical charge could be caused by static charge build up within the radiator core because of passing charged particles passing through. Think of how a balloon increases its static charge just from rubbing against clothing. To offset this charge, it is a good idea to ground the radiator core. I'll be doing this. Another cause can be from a bad ground elsewhere in the system, but either case is aggravated with the use of tap water. When you reduce your coolant, use de-ionized water (best) or distilled water (better). Some folks use a lead fishing weight that is routed to ground as an anode - sacrificial metal so the rest of the cooling system isn't compromised due to a low electrical charge. The route to ground can be as simple as hanging the weight in the overflow tank with copper wire that passes through the cap to a good ground.

Coolant Lines
With the galvanization info, I hit Lowes and bought 24" of copper tubing. I brought the old coolant flange that I had cut up so I could size the pipe, and found a 1" pipe actually fit better than a 1-1/4". I thought that was a little strange. I guess I'll see how the rubber coolant lines fit when they arrive. I grabbed a dozen hose clamps while I was there. With the pipe in-hand, I slid under the bus and thought about the route.

Point "C" was the underside of a greased round beam, not the square-ish frame part I thought I remembered. This changed the plan a little bit. I lost some time trying to fabricate a hanger, but I decided that I could use a short section of copper pipe as a connector instead. I can run the lines over the top of the beam so I don't need a hanger to hold that connection in place. I cut 2 2-1/2" pieces of pipe (pictured) and moved on to focus on the firewall ("D")....

Point "D" is a curved section of frame that is between 2 and 3-1/2" thick with the thinnest part at the lowest point. Using 1" 2-hole pipe straps mounts and a stretch of flashing, I fab'd a basic hanger that can fit into the curve. The pipe lengths are 5-1/2" long. I'll have to trim it a little bit still, and I'd be happier with a stretch of rubber between the pipes and the straps to protect against rub-through. Of course, I haven't put the mount holes in yet, but that should be pretty easy once the rubber hose has arrived. I'll need to lay out the lines and see exactly where the hanger needs to be first.

That's all I have today. Next time, I'll flap about the cabin heater bits I've been working on.

1 comment:

payaso de la mar said...

one other possibility on the sacrificial anode might be one of the Mg anodes from outboard motors, dangled into the cooling system via short piece of braided spectra fishing line. you might be able to get a freebie at a boat shop, since people often replace these when there's some metal left.